Mark

thats because TD5 and later crossmember are made from tin foil... mine needs patching already on a 2001 truck...

Si, I'm a fan of M12 for holding things on that get used for recovery or shock loading, would that be worth adding to the list too? ta Mark

If you ask for OE, they will be timken, but without specifying they will most likley supply the cheapest option - which is not timken. Bermach certainly supply timken bearings, but you do have to ask for (and therefore pay for) OE quality when you order. hth Mark

Question is nige, is it worse or better than brake fluid on your fish and chips???

Excellent writeup Dave - that is exactly what I want to do! Thanks! Mark

Makita and Metabo have done me well for some time now. Hitachi also seem to get very good review from people who use them every day. The metabo one I have replaced a (green) bosch unit and has been great for 5 years or so (that's jinxed it)... What colour are the bosch ones you are killing? Green tends to be thier Consumer/DIY grade stuff, and Blue is thier industrial/Pro stuff.

Jon, Good spot - cheers. Should see you in the week... Cheers Mark

Cheers Ralph. Mark

My Farmer Spec TD5 defender doesn't have a rev counter, and I would like to fit one. Several people are offereing the guage for sale, but I am wondering if there are any extra wiring looms required or programming on the ECU? I am kinda hoping that I can take the clock out, and plug the rev counter into a vacant plug in the loom... If anyone who has done the job could shed any light, it would be most appreciated. Cheers Mark

The wipers don't park on my TD5 Defender... Did a quick search, and found a thread on replacing the park switch This quotes part number 520160 as being the park switch. Can someone confirm that this is the correct part number for a TD5, or is there something more complicated? Cheers Mark

It's just the rocker case oil breather - the pipe that goes round the back of the head should tee into the air intake pipes.

Dan, I think they are wired internally for the 'on' indicator. You could use the dash illumiation fed from the axle sensor if you wanted, but you would then lose the ability for the switch to be illuminated with the dash lights. hth Mark

Ratios are the same - 3.54 If it were me I would swap it for the better, easier to maintain brakes alone. It's a pretty simple swap. Mark

have a look on parkersteel.co.uk Their techincal catalogue is online and will tell you what the stock sizes and dimensions are. That way if you go a stockholder, you can ask for a standard size. You can buy direct from parkers too, but again, it will be 6m lengths plus a delivery charge (from canterbury). In terms of places to get it from, I would suggest getting friendly with a local fabrication shop, and seeing if they will let you raid thier scrap bin, or buy cut lengths from stock. hth Mark

I had thought that Black and Decker owned DeWalt, and had done for some time - turns out Stanley = B&D. Personally, having discussed it with a number of trade suppliers, I would go with Makita. One supplier I talked to said they sell loads of DeWalt, because that's what people want (when they see it on the telly) but they only ever hire out Makita... says it all really.

Thanks for the link... It would appear then that I have already solved the problem by changing the injector loom... I shall keep an eye on the red plug.... ta Mark

I am still having an issue with the engine mis-firing when under load at high RPM. so thought I would check the ECU wiring loom. The red plug of the ECU to my TD5 was pretty sodden in oil when I took it apart to investigate this evening. so could this be the cause of the misfire? I have cleaned out the plug and socket on the ECU and it seems a lot better, but I guess this is only a temporary fix, so an anyone suggest what the proper fix is for the problem? Searching for oil td5 and ecu doesn't seem to give much in the way of results... Cheers Mark

I would be inclined to do the internals of the doors, and door frames if my 10 year old defender is anything to go by!

Chris, Pending the dates, I would definitly be interested - september is filling up fast though! Mr Orange is in France at the minute, but when I mentioned it to him, he was also keen to be involved. Cheers Mark

I am kind of interested to see what people recommend then in place of nanocom, as I also hadn't realised they were no longer available. How does Hawkeye compare? Cheers Mark

The whole transferbox/gearbox assy is held under the tail of the gearbox on the gearbox cross member with 2 rubber mounts. To get the t-box off, you will need to take these mounts out and have the gearbox resting on the cross member I believe (from memory). You may find you can remove the cross member, but you will then have to support the end of the gearbox on something while you take the t-box off. Don't forget to undo the speedo cable and the hand brake cable. It is also easier if the mid section of the exhaust is moved. hth Mark

It's perfectly possible. It's far easier to do them seperatelywith the trolley jack than together though. Assuming the body is still on the discovery, then you can't get a crane in easily anyway...

Indeed, an excellent idea. There is a similar proposal for regarding historic vehicle tax as well, which I think should be brought back.

We did the floor and rear x-member, on Oranges Rangie too: tech archive thread The piece above the wheel arch was cut free hand using a plasma cutter, from a cardboard template. enjoy Mark

The bolts are stretch bolts - hence the need for angular adjustment. The easiest way to do it is with a breaker bar and an angle guage: available for a few quid from a motor factors I seem to remember... In terms of the initial setting, I would be inclined to slacken them all off (in the right order) and torque them to 40Nm (sounds right) and then through the angular routine. hth Mark