Mark

Al, sorry to go all traditional on you, but making some duck boarding in those areas that you do a lot of standing in will make a world of difference - In front of the bench / Lathe / Mill etc. I made some out of gravel board - 1" thick by 6" wide so well strong enough when made up into boards, and as yet I havn't managed to set them alight with the welder or grinder - They have a few marks on them from when I was using my makeshift forge, but only a little charred... In terms of lying under your truck, big sheets of cardboard or old carpet work very well as insulators - Our HP servers at work were delivered in big, high quality cardboard boxes, and they are also surprisingly resistant to setting on fire with the welder (I managed to set myself on fire, but not the card I was lying on..). All tried and tested, and low cost... Cheers Mark

I have all the pipework from a 200 non aircon car if you want it... Mark

John, I assume you are running the lamps as standard side and indicators? If so, it is pretty easy to mod them to get stop/tail and indicator by just changing the bulb holder on the red half. The bulb holder is an LR part (as used on freelanders) and dosn't cost much. I will dig out the part number for you... found it - XBP100190 I got the connectors from vwp, but I can't find them on thier website. They are in the paper catalogue, but I still have the order details from when I did the mod on my disco if you want codes. Oh, and when you get the blingy clear lamp units, if you need a home for those coloured ones, let me know Cheers Mark

Orange's Truck has a Superwinch EP9 mounted on a Southdown Bumper (aquired secondhand) and has a discoparts steering guard as well. The winch happily drags the lardy Rangie about without complaining. If you have an auto, with an oil cooler, you will need to move the cooler up to get the winch to sit back nicely. Cheers Mark

John, no need to use tiny crimps - VWP sell the proper plugs to plug straight onto lamp holders... Will look great when you get a lhs one! good job Mark

I have the roof lining out of my scrap disco at the moment - I will take some measurements for you, but not till the weekend if thats any help? Cheers Mark

Having seen them both, I would go for the challenge one... Cheers Mark

centre winch? ejector seat? Self Righting Mechanism? TURBO BOOST (a la knightrider...)

... Either that or unbolt the calliper and steering arms completely, and remove the swivel and shaft and use it as a opportunity to change your swivel oil seals as well?

Off the top of my head; Winch (for those with only 1 ) Front Winch Rear Winch On Board Air Front Light Bar/Work Lights Rear Work Lights 12V Sockets (for manually switching extra fag lighter sockets and the like) I am sure there will be more... hth Mark

Nige, put me down for a place please Cheers Mark

Neil, Glad to see you had a good day out. Cheers Mark

I would suggest something along the lines of nitromoors as well - once the surface is properly cleaned, it shouldn't be a problem to recoat.

As has been said tho, get someone to sit in the cab and wiggle/push/shove the lever while you attack it with WD40 to try and loosen it all up. If you are really luck, sit in the cab while soneone else gets covered in cr4p and wd40.... enjoy Mark

Yep, looks like it! I havn't ventrued as far as taking the console, but if you can see it, then you can probably get it out easily enough - 6 bolts, and it should just lift off. Cheers Mark

The Hi-Lo question, the only thing I can think of might be that the lever has come loose: the lever that actuates the shaft in the t-box is held onto the rotation shaft with a grub screw, see above. If your linkages are all working OK, then it could be that this grub has come out or loose? On a disco, this probably means dropping the box though... Mark

To answer the diff lock question, I have found that often the lever does not move far enough to engage the difflock before it hits the side of the tunnel. On my brothers rangie, he chopped a bit out of the side of the tunnel to allow the lever to move more. On my disco, I bent up a new linkage between the end of the lever, and the rotation actuator on the transfer box, which means the lever doesn't need to move as far to fully engage it. The linkage is and upside down 'U' shape, and I made the bottom of the U about 6mm longer on the new one. Might be worth a try. Cheers Mark

Pete, I did it over two days - took the old one off on one, and put the new one on the next. I was on my own, working on my back, so it is really quite a physical job, so the break in between was appreciated! It took 3 or 4 hours I guess to get the box off - bearing in mind, I have had the x-brake and propshafts off several times recently, so that was all loose and easy. The main job was moving the box back and down, which with the exhaust in place can be kinda ticklish. It is also a good idea to take the inspection panel off the back of the box to give yourself half an inh extra room before you hit the floor. Refitting took another 3 or 4 hours, a large chunk of which was spent balancing the box on the jack rasing it, and wiggliing it into place, letting it fall off, and then doing it a few more times.... Some big blocks of wood are very helpful so that it dosn't fall too far, or onto you! a transmission jack would be even better, but the sapce available means you have to lift it up, and the rotate it round before being able to fit it to the gearbox.... hth Mark

Neil, it's almost a straight swap - it's just the low operating mech that either needs swapping for your defender one, or taking off and the operating lever on the shaft moving round 90 degrees... I have just done the reverse on my disco - putting a 1.4 box (strangely off a v8 110) in place of a 1.22 one this is a defender box: and this is the disco one: as you can see, the actuating lever is in a slightly different position. I took the disco one off, and attached it to the defender t-box, as this seemed easiest, but on further investigation you can just move the lever on the shaft: If you want a disco t-box with a defender actuator attached, you would be welcome to it! it needs new bearings and seals, but it works.... cheers Mark

That looks like the Gap road?? if so, then yes, I drove it with Chris the other week. One tip would be to make sure diff lock is engaged...

Have you tried Turners?

and another... friendly and quick service from David

I have the discoparts rear bumper, and it is a superb bit of kit - granted it's not light, but it will take some knocks... I have it fitted along with a Southdown tank guard which picks up on the tow bar mountings, so I don't see why you can't have a standard tow bar fitted at the same time as the bumper... On the Front I have a third or fourth hand scorpion one I have to admit that it is actually very good. It keeps the winch well tucked into the grille, and doesn't look huge. In the past I have seen these at sodbury for sensible money, although mine came via eblag... hth Mark

This is more of an action shot : the cow shots didn't really come out

Having just done the transfer box on my 200 tdi disco on my own, I will testify to just how physically demanding it is. The other thing to note when doing the transfer bos is just how little room you have to slide it off the ouput shaft from the gearbox. If you need a bit od extra clearence (and I did, having not removed the gearbox mounts or crossmember) taking the 6 bolts and the coverplate off the back of the transferbox helps immensely. Also, when lowering or raising the boxes unelss you have a specialist transmission jack, there is some potential for the box to move on the trolley jack. I found having a couple of big bits of wood strategically placed such that if the box does fall it falls on them, and not me, was very usefull. hth Mark