timc1967

I have a 1992 110 CSW with 4 doors and frames all rusted out right up to the bottom of the window line - that includes the structure around the door catch. The passenger front door was so bad it was opening by bending open rather than the hinge swinging open. I don't do welding or paint, so I had to consider all the options: New frames welded in, but there was just not enough of the door structure to make it worthwhile New doors - expensive especially when you cost the painting and build up of components - either you buy new fittings, or you strip down your old doors and fit the ancient components and hope it doesn't spoil it. Replacement used doors - The ones I saw on ebay could so easily have been stolen, the distances did not justify viewing first, and and you get no guarantee of their heritage. The cheap ones are still rough and require welding and paintwork anyway, the expensive ones tend to be from later models and cost as much as buying new. I was concerned that if I replaced the doors with new or used, they wont match the car so I'd end up repainting the whole car. What I did in the end was persuade my mechanic to completely rebuild the doors. We agreed a guideline costing, and I set myself a top price I would want to pay. The benefit is that when complete they will be as good as new, but will still match the car. So far, he has completed 3 doors and is working on the 4th. I am so pleased with the strength and quality of the finish of the door structure. The old door skins will go on and cover that up, but I will know they will last as long as the vehicle. Without the ability to do the work myself, the cost is easily still less than buying 4 new doors, building up and painting the whole car. But I have spent as much as the car cost me just to sort out the doors. And then there is the time taken. He has made patterns and will be able to do the job again much quicker, apparently, but I will not share his contact details until I've got mine back and on the road!

I have searched with the above terms and not found any previous discussion .. maybe I didn't try hard enough. I have a modified 110 with van body, I'm interested to remove the roof and have the choice of a soft top. When the chassis was swapped to new galvanised Marsland chassis, my I devised a way to fit the CSW second row footwell, and my fabricator constructed 2 seat bases, we managed to fit 2 forward-facing defender front seats, with access between to the rear door. We removed the bulkhead at the same time, with steel tubing supporting from below. Currently, the front seat belts are anchored as standard, and the seat belts for the 2nd row are mounted at the top to the rail where the side meets the roof, above the window line. I hope to remove the roof and sides, and use standard soft top windscreen rail and door surround. Behind that, I think a cage would provide protection and top seat-belt mounts for all 4 seats. Ideally it should be an internal cage, so I can put the roof back on in winter. I guess if its bolt on, then I could remove it when I swap over. This is the best I could find, but I am not sure it will fit as its not a 200tdi. http://www.paddockspares.com/roll-cage-18.html Is such a cage available or would it be custom made - am I asking too much?

I don't know the answer, but in my limited experience, I haven't driven one without this.

Pretty sure my 16x7s have et00 offset (zero) which means they do not encroach inwards at all but they do stick out a fair bit more than standard.

If you're thinking of just buying 2 and having those combined with the existing discovery 1 wheels, surely they should be the same size?

At least you only have 2 doors! Those new doors look gorgeous, my 110 CSW needed all 4 doors (pushbutton) and I it was a difficult choice between new and refurb, as I don't do much of the work myself. At least with refurb you don't have to paint the whole vehicle and feel the temptation to replace all the fittings with new.

It's a great question, I'm just lurking waiting for the answers.

My 4L is running on carbs, and although I sometimes think there is a better way, when I read the forums with people having trouble I am happy mine is a simple setup.

I fitted some in the front headlining of my 90 years ago, right above driver and passenger heads. The headlining was strong enough, but make sure the depth of the speaker isn't too great.

nice - bulkhead off with engine in, never seen a picture of that before!

In the picture the newer one looks longer to me. Is it definitely compatible? Just thinking, perhaps old one wear and tear, new one maybe different part is extended too far and got damaged. Never seen one before so just take it as pure observation based on your pic.

Depending on type of rev counter, most modern ones connect to the coil on a petrol engine.

Some fit a servo in the clutch line. I'm not technical though so no idea what the process involves.

Is this possibly an issue with the splines on props or driveshaft?

I don't hate it. The carwow article is the most recent and actually looks like a development of the current lineup. There might be something in it.

That's really frustrating. My Marsland was OK on arrival but I bought it direct from Marsland, I believe the delivery was performed by them too (not sure on that). Doesn't help you though. Surely if your "contract" is with Paddocks you should be complaining to them, or off the insurance for the shipping.

Thanks for helping with the recovery of UK economy

But you can get extended arches. I got some, although I didn't fit them yet (2 yrs later!) as I don't want to drill the wings. Someone needs to invent extended arches that use the same fittings as standard.

Pretty sure on my 110 all 4 wheels had the same offset, sounds like you had 2 of one and 2 of another. Mine are 16x7 ET 0, I used a wheel offset calculator to ensure there was no loss of clearance in the arches for steering and suspension travel. http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator

Do they only have axle breathers, then? I haven't counted but I am sure there is more than 2 breather pipes "crowning" at the bulkhead in mine. Do they not lead to the bell housing/ etc as well?

I have the Noise Killer kits: - front end kit which includes interior bulkhead, floor, seatbox - bell housing blanket These were not cheap so I also got some foam and carpet for the rear tub from a foam supplier locally. I found the foam did not really deaden much of the sound at all, and far more time-consuming to install. It also gradually came unstuck, despite buying the recommended spray adhesive. The NK kits in contrast were all cut to size and were peel & stick where needed, which went on easily and is still there a year later. This means it was a one-time, minimal fuss solution. You can see various foam compositions but unless you know what you're getting it may not help.

My approach to security is never to park it on the road or leave it in a carpark for longer than 20 minutes (DIY store). At home its behind a 6ft locked gate down the side of my house.

Grommets even simpler maybe - I used them when I removed the rear door spare wheel mount on my CSW.

My 4 litre hi compression rv8 carburettored 110 is getting about 14 and a bit mpg consistently. I wanted carbs for simplicity, reliability and servicability. I realise efi is quite simple but I had a RRC with efi problems (hunting, cutting out) and spent a fair bit on "specialist" help and ended up getting a new block and still having the problem. This was 20 years ago but still don't want to go that way again for the time being. The insurance are happy with whatever I do to the engine as long as the cc remains the same so I could convert in the future if I wanted. However, I don't feel the need to go fast around town, just hearing the v8 gurgling is fine, hold onto gears rather than charging around working the steering and gears hard. on the open road it easily gets to 80 on the speedo, just give enough stopping distance.

Sounds reasonable, but my main comment is that Inverness is a long way to find out you don't like it, not to mention making the trip and driving it back down south. Is it really the best 110 SW in the country at the price - given you are effectively going the length of the country to see it - especially when you add on your time and costs to view and get it home?