reb78 Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 What are folks thoughts on UJ quality? I bought a set of GKN UJs and the ones on the axle end of my rear prop on the 110 seem to need changing fairly regularly. The yokes are tight when the cups are pressed home, there is no play at the flange or sliding joint, so I dont think its the prop itself. This current one has probably been on about two years (roughly 20k miles) and the previous one was similar. They are greased regularly (every 6000 miles at each service). Seems like the UJ with the least strain goes more than it should! What brand are you buying and where from - can you point me to a link for decent UJs for a standard 1989 110 prop? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 I haven't searched for it yet.... but I'm sure SimonR did a comparison of various different branded UJs on here. I seem to remember Genuine from LR were the best quality with more seals or something?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 My 110 is the same..... Changed so many i don't take the prop off any more. I just do them lying under the 110... I think it comes down to being the UJ that gets covered in the most road snot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted April 10, 2017 Author Share Posted April 10, 2017 9 hours ago, landroversforever said: I haven't searched for it yet.... but I'm sure SimonR did a comparison of various different branded UJs on here. I seem to remember Genuine from LR were the best quality with more seals or something?! I recall reading it but can't find it. Seem to remember Si said buy genuine, but looking around they're £60 each! rtc3458 seems to supersede rtc3291 and from the pics online it seems that 3291 has rubber dust boots whereas 3458 has pressed steel instead? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 11, 2017 Share Posted April 11, 2017 That's what I remember too. I had a search last night at work and I couldn't find the thread. I'm wondering if it was a post within another thread instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 11, 2017 Share Posted April 11, 2017 Cwazywabbit helped me! I think this is the post... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted April 11, 2017 Share Posted April 11, 2017 There's mention of it in here, way back... 2010: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 11, 2017 Share Posted April 11, 2017 Haha! Great minds think alike! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted April 11, 2017 Author Share Posted April 11, 2017 3 hours ago, landroversforever said: Cwazywabbit helped me! I think this is the post... Haha - that was in a thread i started as well! If Si sees this, i wonder if he was talking about rtc3458 or rtc3291 and/or whether there was any difference between them (see my comments above) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 I have a few things to add to this, mainly about how to grease your U/Js. Before you all look away, I described my method here: So far, this method has worked and since I do it this way, no U/J failure in 10 years. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted April 13, 2017 Author Share Posted April 13, 2017 I spoke to Gwyn Lewis as I have one of his front props on the 110 and the UJs on that are pretty good. Gwyn has good quality UJs for the standard props too - these are those with the metal outer dust shield rather than the plain rubber ones. I have ordered a set from Gwyn as you can be sure you get decent quality items from him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 The UJs on my Gwynn Lewis prop lasted less than a year, before one failed and I changed both. Then again Fridgefreezer had been using the truck for a week, so all bets are off Reb78, did you happen to make a note of the GKN part number supplied?? I suspect UJs are just another demonstration of why OEM is not the same as Gen Parts. Just because it's made by the same manufacturer, doesn't mean it's the same part made to the same spec for the same application. A bit of speculation based on reading an old GKN catalogue.... (GKN_Universal_Joints.pdf) I don't recall if it's the large or small UJ, but for one of them I'm sure I've previously been supplied GKN U110. Check the GKN catalogue and while the dimensions look correct, it isn't the only part which might suit. U117 is list as 'Land Rover special axle' (but has no grease point). U110 is classed as 'Automotive Standard', but U967 has the same listed dimensions but is classed as 'Premium design for high performance / long life'. Of course, not all applications are the same, so the 'long life' part might not be the best choice for a Land Rover, an 'automotive' or even 'agricultural' might be better, either generally, or for a specific vehicle/use. Also, it's very possible the 'Gen Parts' design from GKN is not even from the standard range, but modified from that. There isn't any detail on size/number of rollers, or seal or lubrication details, and even if there was I think it would be hard to guess which would be the best choice without checking all the likely parts, and then trying any that fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 My own personal experience supports the general thinking, Genuine are far superior to any branded UJ's I've ever used. I went through a period of changing them out every 6 months on one prop, then after getting a lucky strike of two cheap genuine LR ones on ebay I've not actually had to go back and change out certainly in the past 12 -24 months. No grease nipples on them other than the standard centre one, but I did noticed that there was quite advanced grease channels cut into the bearing area's, regular greasing especially after wet weather seems to have kept them happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 Coincidentally, I went on the internet and I found this 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted April 16, 2017 Share Posted April 16, 2017 I would suggest whatever make, when you come to use them you carefully remove the caps and blow all existing grease out of the cross, make sure the passages are free. Old grease tends to thicken and you are relying on it going 2 ways, so if one is blocked life is limited (Why don't they give you 2 grease nipples, then it's balanced and you can use either?) . Many of the GKN and non-GKN I have bought have been bunged internally, presumably having sat on a shelf for a while. Then fill it with new grease - Gwynn recommends Morris K48 which has worked well for me, and I think their life depends on regular greasing, not just for bearing life but to keep it flowing, otherwise you typically find one bearing has been starved of grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted April 16, 2017 Share Posted April 16, 2017 If people do grease by releasing the prop and doing it off the vehicle, how religiously do you replace the nuts on refit? Do you just have a supply of them and dip in each time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted April 16, 2017 Share Posted April 16, 2017 I replace them if there is any damage on the hexagon or if they have been used a few times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted April 16, 2017 Share Posted April 16, 2017 Thanks Vulcan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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