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11 minutes ago, muddy said:

Work out your tunnel and under bonnet height,

Yeah or you may have to remove part of the top of the gearbox :ph34r: or not be able to get an air filter to fit :ph34r:

 

2 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

I need to set a loaded height, putting the engine and box in and resting front and rear winches on will get me somewhere near, at this point I can trial fit my shocks and tack stuff into position

Hmm, I would probably stick the chassis with engine/gearbox on the axles without bump stops, and then see where your shocks could possibly go -you have quite long ones, yes? You may need to get a bit creative with positioning to ensure they don't bottom out. What happens when they droop out can then be tested with your forklift/engine crane after tacking in place. For all this you will need to tack your main one-link mount up at your best guess position, which I think is somewhat dictated by your gearbox position, you said?

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17 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

Next question, how the hell do you compress these shocks....

Never had any before I couldn't compress by hand

Going to have to dig out the old bullworker......

Regards Stephen

I'd be questioning why you can't compress them...

If I was being a brute then either JCB bucket - back actor for finesse or front loader for brute strength. After all that'll put about 6t downforce onto it :ph34r:.

If I was going to be a sensible brute then shove it in the hydraulic press (that only does about 80 tonnes) :P

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16 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

You need to check *without* bump-stops, a lump of rubber is no match for a mog axle that's travelling upwards at any sort of rate. Jez preached designing as if the bump-stop isn't there and it's proved to hold true. Even on standard motors the axle can happily smack the stops flat - ask anyone with an engine swap who's ever had the axle smack the oil filter even though it's above bump-stop height :o

Also worth checking full twist both ways too.

This

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1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said:

You need to check *without* bump-stops, a lump of rubber is no match for a mog axle that's travelling upwards at any sort of rate. Jez preached designing as if the bump-stop isn't there and it's proved to hold true. Even on standard motors the axle can happily smack the stops flat - ask anyone with an engine swap who's ever had the axle smack the oil filter even though it's above bump-stop height :o

Also worth checking full twist both ways too.

Oh for sure! Typo on my behalf when rattling a post out quickly on my phone! 'bump stop pads' off the end! Sorry Stephen! 

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  • 3 weeks later...

So chassis on the axles and now having a nightmare trying to get front arms the right shape and negotiating the chassis rails

I'm open to suggestions because at the moment straight radius Arms are looking a lot more packageable 

Also I take it with a three link front suspension set up you still use pan hard rod

Where I'm at

Some rear crossmember modifications to get chassis onto axles

20220807_130153.thumb.jpg.f963353e7c1cd112e02554157dc3a627.jpg

20220807_130157.thumb.jpg.7ead397f442300d757b63e0248b76a2d.jpg

a bit close

20220807_132305.thumb.jpg.bfabb5c13b4c50a5974b99a11c5678d7.jpg

some cutting done

20220807_134308.thumb.jpg.b51aa726bde603bd72fd849f553f590d.jpg

20220807_134826.thumb.jpg.0e784302ca5c9df810cb3513081ce275.jpg

Multiple bending

20220807_140525.thumb.jpg.ae8e25bca6699cc99c80cd8f9aead3e6.jpg

20220807_144121.thumb.jpg.daf0c3fac9d680c07b32271bdae191ba.jpg

20220807_144132.thumb.jpg.90f3d4be4ed4e5bb3f256ad0e08b24ee.jpg

20220807_144148.thumb.jpg.18f15f28afde9376e24c1ae79cb840bf.jpg

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20220807_145329.thumb.jpg.8b2dc328250ee95dac1f3250a99071bd.jpg

 

20220807_145340.jpg

Regards Stephen

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I think you are going 1 link rather than 3 link? Panhard rod needed for both. I would just come straight off the arm stubs at 45 degrees inwards and then let some halved steam pipe into the lower inner chassis sides as a scallop/pocket for the arm to sneak into on bump.

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These are the best pictures I can offer of a one link setup I am/was building, this was just over 7 years ago and I unfortunately still cannot tell you if it works or not, you can't rush these things 🥸

 

IMAG1668.thumb.jpg.16d1dc5bb31b5ffb2065965139f48316.jpg

 

IMAG1669.thumb.jpg.3de653c0ffcd09010b50a135de69e952.jpg

 

It uses a standard rear trailing arm mount as the bush with I don't think would be unto the mog axles but you get the idea.

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25 minutes ago, muddy said:

These are the best pictures I can offer of a one link setup I am/was building, this was just over 7 years ago and I unfortunately still cannot tell you if it works or not, you can't rush these things 🥸

 

IMAG1668.thumb.jpg.16d1dc5bb31b5ffb2065965139f48316.jpg

 

IMAG1669.thumb.jpg.3de653c0ffcd09010b50a135de69e952.jpg

 

It uses a standard rear trailing arm mount as the bush with I don't think would be unto the mog axles but you get the idea.

You've given me food for thought...

Thank you regards Stephen

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The problem with anything other than straight tube is that is wants to bend in compression. a 3 link seems a stronger solution, if you keep the links straight. Sorry if that messes with your plans.

Daan

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There usedto be a uk challenge truck with front and rear 1 links made from the standard hockey sticks, the bend started a few inches from bush(axle end) and it seemed to work well and had loads of clearance. I’ve also made one for a euro trial “spider” which was literally some box section welded to the axle case meeting at the other end with a big boy rose joint. It was all tied together with a skid plate. It worked but the car was well under 1000kg and would need more for anything heavier. 

 

there was a time I was going to do this on mine but never had the time, so for a quick easy solution I fitted voided poly bushes….they worked “ok” but lasted about 3 trips out. I’ve since fitted genuine bushes with an 8mm hole drilled in them and I’m really happy with the result

 

theres also this death trap to draw a small ammount of inspiration from

EBE0D114-EA43-4652-9437-7512DBA9B83F.thumb.jpeg.0d52a49c7007382be60e5895acc89c7b.jpeg

 

you could also put an end to the experts claims of knowing someone who cut the front half of a radius arm off to allow more flex. I know so many people who have claimed to see it but somehow it’s missed me every time…. 

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