Bowie69 Posted March 19, 2020 Share Posted March 19, 2020 No, the tool that bolts to the input gear, lst105, it provides the right diameter to wrap the string around. If not right, torque will be off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 19, 2020 Author Share Posted March 19, 2020 50 minutes ago, cackshifter said: Did you have to buy the service tool for the intermediate shaft torque measurement, or did you improvise somehow? I improvised it can't be that far out, no idea where I could get the tool from for a one off job, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted March 19, 2020 Share Posted March 19, 2020 3 hours ago, western said: I improvised it can't be that far out, no idea where I could get the tool from for a one off job, I've done several rebuilds doing this by feel too. You can tell when it's right having set the preload with string and a spring scale on the other sets. Ain't rocket science to extrapolate! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 20, 2020 Author Share Posted March 20, 2020 If this transfer box breaks again, it will be replaced with a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 20, 2020 Author Share Posted March 20, 2020 fully bolted in place, got more to do tomorrow. ------ Both props, diff-lock linkage, park brake assembly, oil fill, output gear from main gearbox, floor plates. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted March 20, 2020 Share Posted March 20, 2020 You have done well, you are on the home straight now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 20, 2020 Share Posted March 20, 2020 Not going to have it galvanised, Ralph? ;) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 20, 2020 Author Share Posted March 20, 2020 Nope, it's a alloy casing. Gave it a good clean inside & out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 20, 2020 Share Posted March 20, 2020 Was a joke !😄😣 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigi_H Posted March 21, 2020 Share Posted March 21, 2020 galvanizing might be a problem, but not anodizing .. I recommend blue 😅 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 21, 2020 Author Share Posted March 21, 2020 Just got to refit these bits - - - - - gearbox tunnel panel, cubby box, mats, tools tidy up & put away, road test, It's extremely windy weather today but glad it's not raining. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post western Posted March 21, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 21, 2020 All back in one piece, road test done, seems OK. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted March 21, 2020 Share Posted March 21, 2020 Nicely done Ralph , as usual. Did you find any reason for the bearing failure ? cheers Steve b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 21, 2020 Author Share Posted March 21, 2020 Not that I could tell, no damage to any gear teeth, I will do a oil change next weekend, 110 will be doing 30 miles a day this coming week, so that should get the transfer box up to full temp & flush out any remaining bits, the 2 magnetic drain plugs should catch any thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted March 21, 2020 Share Posted March 21, 2020 Interesting thread Ralph. I think the cause is clear: It watched the engine get rebuilt and wanted some of the attention. I hope the gearbox doesn't get an ideas 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneandtwo Posted March 21, 2020 Share Posted March 21, 2020 On 3/20/2020 at 12:05 AM, western said: If this transfer box breaks again, it will be replaced with a new one. The professional rebuilders I have spoken to have all done it by feel. Should just have the tiniest bit of preload. Timken do a data sheet regarding the preload on taper bearings - I adhered to that when I did mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 21, 2020 Author Share Posted March 21, 2020 Wish I had know that earlier, only had my genuine workshop manual to go by. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted March 22, 2020 Share Posted March 22, 2020 16 hours ago, monkie said: Interesting thread Ralph. I think the cause is clear: It watched the engine get rebuilt and wanted some of the attention. I hope the gearbox doesn't get an ideas I have experienced that same phenomenon, and even between two vehicles. Everything's fine, then something happens, and before you know it there are another 3 things demanding attention as well. Just wondering if the overdrive might have had some influence on the failure, for a given speed the engine revs are lower but to get that same power to overcome resistance the torque must be correspondingly higher. It might have accelerated the failure but it was probably just the bearing got tired of living. But great result Ralph. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 22, 2020 Author Share Posted March 22, 2020 Been for a 10 mile drive including a blast along dual carriageway, seems a bit noisier than previously, may have a bit to much preload on the intermediate shaft bearings, but to rectify it will mean pulling transfer box off or slide it back on extra long studs, if I do that then the bearings & collapsible tube will get replaced or I'll just swap the complete box, going to see how it goes this week & change the oil next weekend, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted March 22, 2020 Share Posted March 22, 2020 I don't really know why they don't preload by angle tightening tbh. It's easy to find when you've taken out any clearance with a test indicator, then a certain angle change on the nut gives a desired preload. Anyhow... I've always set mine up a tad on the tighter side one the grounds that there's a good bit of give in the case, and it's likely to settle as the new bearings bed in. All have run nicely. Possible the teeth have worn a little when running with a collapsed bearing and now they're noisy when running "correctly". It's incredible how much abuse a failing bearing will suffer and how long they hold on before totally letting go. My old LT85 was running quite happily with a cage that had split, it was just noisy AF. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 22, 2020 Author Share Posted March 22, 2020 I'll give it a few weeks, will do a oil change & magnetic plug check next weekend, then run it for another 4 weeks & check again. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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