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Swivel Pin housing


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Can i remove the swivel pin housing by just unbolting it from the axle and removing the the complete hub and half shaft after removing wheel, brake caliper  and track rod. Or is it best to do a full stip ie hub off, stub axle off half shaft out then unbolt swivel pin housing from axle?

Andy 

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Course you can I've seen work mechs stripping the swivel parts just to change a diff no need just remove said axle bolts and slide whole thing out even if your only wanting to work on swivel you could take it inside to a work bench regards Stephen 

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It'll be much easier to get the small bolts that hold the swivel housing seal on as well if you have it on the workbench. I'd make sure you've got some spare to replace the old ones with as they're right in the firing line for salt/dirt and corrode to the point where it's nearly impossible to remove them.

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Muts I would see the biggest challenge getting it back in carefully and gently and not damaging the new seal between ball and axle, set up some kind of overhead lift system that you can adjust without effort when the heavy lump is hanging on it.

 

** dont forget the big hammer, anvil and COLD beer

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IMO I'd personally choose to strip it all back unless it was an emergency change. It's a heavy lump to move about without a brake disc or even the CV and shaft (did it the other night on the build). Add to that the awkwardness of moving that weight whilst trying to line up the shaft at the diff end.... its a pain! 

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@Stellaghost no i don't have any as yet, but i like the idea, so I WILL get some asap ;):)

And bodumatau hammer, anvil and cold beer are my new best buddies 😂 Don't have a garage only a drive to work on, so over head hoist is out, might try guiding it in on the trolley jack!?! I reckon i could work something to wedge/hold the hub raise it to height then slide it in????? Naagh who am i kidding!?! It ain't never gunna be that simple!!! Oh yeah, HAMMER, ANVIL & COLD BEER!!!!!

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13 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

Hi Andy

 You probably have some but I find ratchet scanners great for loosening swivel hubs off axle regards Stephen 

 

The spec on the swivel to axle bolts has changed recently, new genuine ones are now supplied with a 17mm 12 sided head, not 14mm as it has always been. They seem and look more substantial than the 14mm head but downside is now ratchet spanners no longer fit.

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36 minutes ago, Red90 said:

One thing that people tend to miss is that there is one special bolt per side that is a dowel bolt.  It makes sure that the castor is set exactly.  If replacing bolts or mixing up parts from both sides, it can be missed.

Red90 Can you please explain.....What caster, how to set and where the Dowel bolt goes???

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Never seen that special bolt yet certainly not on swivel to axle bolts if your unsure as to repositioning mark with a piece of chalk or permanent marker however positioning is pretty obvious  when taking into consideration for the refitting of calipers and track rods also have never bought new bolts to replace ones removed and I've had mine stripped down more times than I can remember as I used to put a welded diff in for modified trials competitions and then remove it for road use never had any issues at all with bolts in 30+ years regards Stephen

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3 hours ago, Red90 said:

One thing that people tend to miss is that there is one special bolt per side that is a dowel bolt.  It makes sure that the castor is set exactly.  If replacing bolts or mixing up parts from both sides, it can be missed.

Eh? On a coiler the castor angle is set by the PCD with unequally spaced bolts at the bottom.

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26 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

Eh? On a coiler the castor angle is set by the PCD with unequally spaced bolts at the bottom.

Yup, the rest of the conversation had me scratching my head about that too!

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47 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

Eh? On a coiler the castor angle is set by the PCD with unequally spaced bolts at the bottom.

Never noticed that always been focused on track rod arm angle as I've said before every days a school day regard Stephen

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You can't screw it up, essentially.

The caster is fixed, see this pic:

Genuine-Land-Rover-Defender-Swivel-Balls

 

Note the offset holes. No pins, just remember to loctite the bolts back up, and probably have some spares as they easily round off being 12-pointed.

You can't get a ratchet spanner in there on a coiler axle, but a slim ring spanner will fit. They are TIGHT, and may need a spanner extension (using another spanner). Officially they are 9/16, but with corrosion I tend to find 14mm fits more snugly, and prevents them rounding quite so easily.

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3 minutes ago, Mutley said:

Ouch!.... My head hurts!.....

I'm lost......Coiler, Caster, PCD anyone want to educate me???

Coiler - slang for coil sprung

Castor - think of the way a shopping trolley wheel swings about when you move, its the same thing.

PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter, a circle of bolt holes etc.

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3 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

Note the offset holes. No pins, just remember to loctite the bolts back up, and probably have some spares as they easily round off being 12-pointed.

You can't get a ratchet spanner in there on a coiler axle, but a slim ring spanner will fit. They are TIGHT, and may need a spanner extension (using another spanner). Officially they are 9/16, but with corrosion I tend to find 14mm fits more snugly, and prevents them rounding quite so easily.

I've got a 14mm with the open end cut off... it then fits rather nicely inside the disco jack handle.

On the size front though... They're M10 bolts so why would they be 9/16 :unsure: 

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