gruntus Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 Hi All, I am going to be changing my timing belt in the next few weeks (its a 200TDi defender engine not a Disco), its a job I want to do right and not go back to it (long story short I think the timing is out and the FIP sprocket is possibly a tooth out and hence cant the necessary advance on it) and have heard quite a few people mention the questionable quality of some manufacturers parts. Rather than muddy the waters are there specific belts and tensioners people would actually recommend as a manufacturer? IIRC I will need a belt, belt tensioner, (idler as well?) gaskets for the water pump and front cover for the timing belt casing. Aside from manufacturer recommendations is there anything else I should change while I'm at it? Note: It doesn't get used off-road or even get dirty very often. 😳 As always a very grateful thanks in advance.🙂👍 All the best G 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 Dayco for the belt. I cant remember the make of the last tensioner I bought. The idler depends on whether you have a defender or disco variant - the latter has an idler, the former doesnt. I went genuine for the gaskets as they are important to seal the water pump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 Dayco belts, Bearmach for the tensioner/roller/gear. Corteco oil seals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger110 Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 it's been a while but if i remember correctly, a 9.5mm drill bit to lock the injection pump in place. As for belts etc, as suggested above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 I think it was bearmach I used for the tensioner when I last did the belt on the 110. Definately Corteco for seals and a correction to above - i wpuld have used Elring for gaskets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gruntus Posted December 8, 2020 Author Share Posted December 8, 2020 (edited) Thanks guys, thanks for triggering my memory reb, it was elring I used when I built it 9 years ago (I'm sure Ralph recommended them back then). I looked at turner's and they looked to be quite steep on price (however, a really great service from them previously so can't knock them at all). I will have a little shop around. Not looking forward to taking the crank bolt and pulley off!!!🙏🤞😢 Thanks again 👍 G Edited December 8, 2020 by gruntus Update Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 I’ve done six belt changes on my 200Tdi and found that INA branded tensioners are the best. Dayco belts as above. Corteco for the seals and genuine for the gaskets. I also replace the water pump bolts every second belt, save the nightmare of one snapping. Every belt perhaps if you only do a low mileage, they’re not expensive. And the exterior ancillary belts should be treated as service items too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gruntus Posted December 8, 2020 Author Share Posted December 8, 2020 Thanks Retro, who do you typically source your parts from? All the best G. 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 LR Direct will have all of this. So will Britcar. If you use LRCat to get the part numbers searching on their sites is easy. Both are very good companies to deal with IME. James has jogged my memory again. My tensioner was INA - It might have come through Bearmach via LRDirect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 Wherever I can get the right bits at the best price! But generally LRdirect, Britcar, Paddocks (watch for blue bags) etc. and of course Land Rover themselves. The Bearmach kits used to contain Dayco belts, INA tensioners and decent gaskets and I always used to buy them for ease. I’ve gone back to buying the parts individually now though as on my last change I noted the belt was running slightly off centre, the tensioner had play in it and on closer inspection it was not branded INA. Caveat emptor! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 I haven’t looked in a while, but Turner Engineering parts prices always looked quite reasonable to me in the past. Some may be cheaper, but at least with Turner, you know they only sell parts they have confidence in and use themselves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 Good call James ! Does anyone know the part numbers of the water pump bolts ? My belt is due in the spring, an easy but pain in the bum job. INA is OEM for the tensioner. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gruntus Posted December 9, 2020 Author Share Posted December 9, 2020 I've ordered all the stuff from Turner Engineering so not a £30 special. Also found his post which was pretty well written. https://www.landroverweb.com/landrover/product-reviews-and-test/timing-belt-change-200tdi-engine/amp/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 8 hours ago, Mo Murphy said: Does anyone know the part numbers of the water pump bolts ? I think that this is the correct diagram on lrworkshop here: https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-engine/200tdi/coolant-pump_53138 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 Indeed, although there an error in the callout diagram there. This is the page from the paper parts manual: The two #14 and the single #13 bolts are the ones that suffer the most and so are most important to change. I generally find the shorter ones (#12) don’t corrode as much but for the cost I change them too. Call me tight but I reuse the nut and stud 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 You're tight James ! 😁 Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will@LRW Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 16 hours ago, Retroanaconda said: Indeed, although there an error in the callout diagram there. This is the page from the paper parts manual: The two #14 and the single #13 bolts are the ones that suffer the most and so are most important to change. I generally find the shorter ones (#12) don’t corrode as much but for the cost I change them too. Call me tight but I reuse the nut and stud Hi James What's the error you've seen? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 (edited) There's a duplicate reference to item 13 and item 14 isn't labelled. The left hand bolt shown as item 13 should be item 14. Edited December 10, 2020 by Peaklander Have now correctly described the error Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 Indeed. I think it’s Microcat’s error though rather than yours! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gruntus Posted December 10, 2020 Author Share Posted December 10, 2020 So two things. 1) Ordered my parts from Turners at 1pm yesterday. Had them in my hand way "oop north" at 2pm today. Cracking service, well packaged. amazing. 2) Its an INA belt tensioner, its been 9 or so years since I fitted one and don't remember how easy they spin when they are new but it feels a bit tight? Is that normal? I don't expect it to spin like a ball bearing of course and I know its under tension during operation so you wouldn't want/expect any play in it. Can anyone confirm if that's the norm from their experience? I can rotate it but it doesn't spin freely if that makes sense? 😕 😐😏 Now to find some of those water pump bolts online....... All the best. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 New rubber sealed bearing are always a bit stiff to turn, as long as it doesn't rumble it will be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gruntus Posted December 10, 2020 Author Share Posted December 10, 2020 Thanks Bowie.👍 G 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will@LRW Posted December 14, 2020 Share Posted December 14, 2020 On 12/10/2020 at 3:50 PM, Peaklander said: There's a duplicate reference to item 13 and item 14 isn't labelled. The left hand bolt shown as item 13 should be item 14. On 12/10/2020 at 6:22 PM, Retroanaconda said: Indeed. I think it’s Microcat’s error though rather than yours! Thanks chaps. Now fixed in the diagram: https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-engine/200tdi/coolant-pump_53138#14 I'm always interested to hear where we can improve on the diagrams! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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