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Making my own main loom/harness


monkie

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I think it's important to acknowledge good service when you get it... most of the wires and connectors etc I got from Autosparks. They had accidentally missed off my relay bases from my order when then box arrived (an understandable mistake given the quantity of stuff on the pick list for my order to make both the main and chassis harness). I also had missed a one or two wires off my order due to my mistake. I emailed them to let them know about the mistake with the relay bases. They were appologetic and said they would send them out that day. I got tied up with work and had a delay ordering the wires I had forgotten about - I ordered them and emailed them asking if they could be included in the package with the missing relays. Alas I had missed the post as they had sent them out there and then, so I said I would just pay for the postage for the wires I had forgotten about. I didn't hear back.

No need for that, the relays arrived yesterday and the couple of things I had forgotten arrived free of charge this morning. Fantastic service that I want to acknowlegde. Thanks Autosparks.

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Chassis loom completed. 2 days to make this bad boy, but I'm pleased with the result. I'd go as far to say it's better than the original with the bullets deleted and a nice 30 amp earth running the whole length to each corner all tightly wrapped in loom tape with conduit on the outer. 

I've also been making up the individual circuits for the main loom ready to be connected together next weekend. 

 

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On 1/6/2021 at 3:35 PM, PaulMc said:

I've just checked the wiring diagrams -

Discovery-2 TD5 and V8 use 3.0mm2

1999MY Defender TD5 uses 3.0mm2

2002MY Defender TD5 uses 4.0mm2

I ended up buying the 4mm pins with the plug but hopefully they will still work with the 3mm wire.

I wanted to match the factory colours if possible when I join a wire I.e. WP 3.0 for the fuel pump. Where do folk shop for Landrover colour coded wiring?

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3 minutes ago, Bigj66 said:

 Where do folk shop for Landrover colour coded wiring?

I recently rewired my upper rear tail/brake/indicators on my 110, so I bought the correct size & colour coded wiring  from Autosparks it's sold by the metre. so you can order as many metres as you need. they do Braided/PVC or thinwall wiring.

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46 minutes ago, Bigj66 said:

I wanted to match the factory colours if possible

That is a must in my opinion for later fault finding should one occur. The mess my fuse box was in with all sorts of different wires soldered in was a mess and just causes confusion, delay and potential for mistakes. 

I also use Autosparks but there are a few places online. 

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9 hours ago, landroversforever said:

Friends bought their 90 from an auto-electrician.... absolutely every extra wire added was black, everything :( 

All the MOD wiring in the ambulance is yellow... but they do put numbered sleeves on each end of every wire.

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Frustratingly I'm still awaiting some items in the post due to delivery delays, but I have managed to get as far as I can with the individual circuits ready to build the main loom when the other bits and pieces arrive. Progress is slow but sure.. 

 

 

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Someone I was talking to recommended these for joining multiple wires. I've never seen them in the flesh, I'm not sure how good they are long term. What's the panel's view? Anyone used them? 

 

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5 hours ago, monkie said:

Someone I was talking to recommended these for joining multiple wires. I've never seen them in the flesh, I'm not sure how good they are long term. What's the panel's view? Anyone used them?

Never entirely trusted them to make a good joint, and certainly wouldn't trust random ebay copies of the genuine Tyco ones. Just my personal bias though.

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1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Never entirely trusted them to make a good joint, and certainly wouldn't trust random ebay copies of the genuine Tyco ones. Just my personal bias though.

Thank you, that confirms my suspicions. I have been crimping, soldering and using adhesive heat shrink. I will continue. 

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Progressing well. Here is the before and after of the fuse box....

Edit: The additional brown wires are to fuse the feed for the head light relays. 

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Edited by monkie
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I've just hit that point in a big land rover project when you start to slow down, wonder if you have bitten off more than you can chew and start to think that your land rover will never be on the road again. I'm seeing that as a signal to stop working on it today and come back to it when I'm feeling fresh and motivated to carry on. 

 

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11 minutes ago, monkie said:

I've just hit that point in a big land rover project when you start to slow down, wonder if you have bitten off more than you can chew and start to think that your land rover will never be on the road again. I'm seeing that as a signal to stop working on it today and come back to it when I'm feeling fresh and motivated to carry on. 

 

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I share your pain brother 😞💪

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1 hour ago, monkie said:

I've just hit that point in a big land rover project when you start to slow down, wonder if you have bitten off more than you can chew and start to think that your land rover will never be on the road again. I'm seeing that as a signal to stop working on it today and come back to it when I'm feeling fresh and motivated to carry on. 

 

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Good call! Job fatigue 🙁

Mo

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26 minutes ago, Mo Murphy said:

Good call! Job fatigue 🙁

Mo

I think when you get that point, it is when you are likely to make silly/costly mistakes. Hopefully tomorrow I'll be reinvigorated to push on :)

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1 hour ago, monkie said:

I think when you get that point, it is when you are likely to make silly/costly mistakes. Hopefully tomorrow I'll be reinvigorated to push on :)

This is right. Project fatigue is real and if you don’t walk away for a while you’ll end up making daft mistakes.

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