JohnnyA Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 Hey Team, new to defenders and I have a small leak on the rear starboard wheel. Could be the ball joint or the break fluid? Although not much if any sign from break fluid tank it’s gotten lower. is it safe to drive while I find someone to look at it? Thanks for your time! johnny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossberg Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 It may be worth posting the year. It may also be a good idea to take the wheel off and take a photo of the hub. Oil leeks can be associated with the axle bleed being blocked so may be worth checking that. I am not the most experienced guy on here so hopefully someone who knows what they are talking about will be along soon to help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 It's most likely EP90 oil, from inside the axle. Based on where it's coming out, it's probably the paper gasket inbetween the drive flange (on the end of the drive shaft) and the hub. 15 in the diagram. Take the wheel off & make sure the five bolts on the hub are tight. If not, tighten them - that will probably fix the leak. If they are tight, remove them, withdraw the shaft & replace the gasket. You can easily make your own gasket out of thin card / thick paper. In the mean time, it's OK to drive IMHO. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 Looks like a LR90 rear drum brake to me, so probably brake fluid from a leaking cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 Immediate thoughts for remote diagnostics... EP90 has a rather distinctive smell! Or try gently rinsing it off with tap water - if it's brake fluid it will mostly dilute and wash away. If it's EP90, it won't ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92a Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 Might be the plastic hub cap? With alloy wheels the “Land Rover “centre caps don’t often fit in the wheels (drum brake axles ) but you may have wheel spacers fitted ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 It looked watery to me. I'd be checking it isnt brake fluid before driving it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyA Posted July 22, 2022 Author Share Posted July 22, 2022 Thanks all. I’ll tighten the wheel for now until I can get to my buddies lift. Appreciate all the quick advice. This group is awesome. here she is. She’s a 92. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossberg Posted July 23, 2022 Share Posted July 23, 2022 I wouldn't have thought you would need a lift, tust Jack up that wheel then take it off and see what's happening. Take photos, post on here and let the helpful knowledgeable folk on here help you out. The knowledge base on here is extensive but the more information you can give, including photos, the more accurate diagnosis you will get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted July 23, 2022 Share Posted July 23, 2022 9 hours ago, 92a said: Might be the plastic hub cap? With alloy wheels the “Land Rover “centre caps don’t often fit in the wheels (drum brake axles ) but you may have wheel spacers fitted ? Land Rover factory Alloys don't fit the early 30/110 hub too well as the thicker drive flange can interfere with the inner centre of the wheel . It looks like gear oil to me coming out of the outer face of the hub , so either the end cap or the drive member joint . Welcome to the forum , there are several US members on here already . I like the colour of yours too , what engine do you have ? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted July 23, 2022 Share Posted July 23, 2022 11 hours ago, reb78 said: It looked watery to me. I'd be checking it isnt brake fluid before driving it. If it were brake fluid, it would be coming out from the inner lip of the drum. Since it's apparently coming out between the drum & the wheel - it can only be oil. That was my thought process. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 23, 2022 Share Posted July 23, 2022 Fair point^^ you are right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted July 23, 2022 Share Posted July 23, 2022 Wipe the oil from the wheel and then with the engine running press the brake pedal down as hard as you can and hold it, if it sinks to the floor and you have fresh oil on your wheel you have a leaking wheel cylinder inside the rear drum, if it stays rock hard and no more fluid appears you have a axle oil leak as Simon said above. On the diff pumpkin there is a 1/2" drive square plug take this out and dip your finger in, if the oil on the wheel matches that would further confirm and axle oil leak. On top of the axle is a small fitting with a breather pipe, if this is blocked it could cause the oil to leak out during prolonged highway driving. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filbee Posted July 24, 2022 Share Posted July 24, 2022 On 7/22/2022 at 10:37 PM, TSD said: Immediate thoughts for remote diagnostics... EP90 has a rather distinctive smell! Or try gently rinsing it off with tap water - if it's brake fluid it will mostly dilute and wash away. If it's EP90, it won't ? I think this is a good first step. EP90 stinks. Dab a bit of that fluid on your finger and sniff it 👍 Brake fluid also has quite a different texture to oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted July 24, 2022 Share Posted July 24, 2022 It looks to me like it’s just the gasket between drive flange and hub - it’s the joint between the star-shaped five bolt flange onto the protruding centre of the hub. The threat here is the leak worsening and eventually reducing the oil for the differential or the five bolts being loose enough for the flange to move and then snap the bolts. It’s a simple repair with a new gasket, ideally a thin paper rather than thick paper one as the thick type compress with age and eventually leak again, while the thin type don’t. There are various sealants available to help gaskets, but as long as the metal faces are clean and in good condition before closing, the best additive for paper gaskets is to lightly rub grease into them - it helps them become saturated before fitting, it helps them stick in position, it prevents corrosion of th metal faces and it also prevents permanent sticking of the gasket so future work is so much easier. Part number 15 on SimonR’s diagram, and the part he also diagnosed. The other likely candidate is the plastic cone at the centre of the drive flange. They can split or just become loose with age, especially in hot climates. A new cone with a smear of RTV sealant around its lip to make sure it doesn’t pop off again will cure that, and checking the breather hose and banjo bolt (attached to the middle of the axle on the upper surface) are clear to allow air pressure to equalise will ensure that the caps aren’t being forced off by internal pressure when the axle warms up. You don’t need a ramp or lift, just a Jack under the end of the axle. The vehicle should have been supplied with a black or red hydraulic bottle Jack for exactly this purpose. Just don’t get under the vehicle if supported by a jack, and make sure the other wheels are chocked first. Loosen the wheel nuts (or lug nuts) with the weight on the wheel, then jack it up and remove the nuts and wheel. When the work is done, refit the wheel and nuts, but don’t tighten until the jack is down again. From the photo, I very much doubt it’s a brake problem. If it is, the fluid will be leaking out of the gap between the drum edge and the back plate, which doesn’t appear to be the case, and would also be unlikely to be near the centre of the wheel and the back of the spokes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted July 24, 2022 Share Posted July 24, 2022 On 7/23/2022 at 11:52 AM, steve b said: Land Rover factory Alloys don't fit the early 30/110 hub too well as the thicker drive flange can interfere with the inner centre of the wheel . It looks like gear oil to me coming out of the outer face of the hub , so either the end cap or the drive member joint . Welcome to the forum , there are several US members on here already . I like the colour of yours too , what engine do you have ? Steve It has spacers fitted - the axle is early, and even without the wheel/drive flange clash, the plastic cone has to protruding through the centre hole unless spacers are fitted. Plus, look at the tyre walls relative to the wing panels on the full photo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted July 24, 2022 Share Posted July 24, 2022 Yes , I did notice the wheels look to be mounted on some sort of spacer from the position relative to the bodywork , another good reason to pull the wheel and check it's all secure while sorting out the gear oil leak . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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