Stellaghost Posted December 31, 2023 Share Posted December 31, 2023 21 minutes ago, landroversforever said: picture upload for Doug That's looking fantastic @dangerous dougthat's Regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted December 31, 2023 Author Share Posted December 31, 2023 Ok for some Reason my brand new phone doesn’t like uploading so I’ve sent to Ross and re downloaded them and now it’s good to go drill set up with my tapping head and the tap chart my dad got me for Christmas, it’s really nice if you’re into that sort of thing then the link for them is https://geoffreycroker.com/en-gbp/ I have the fraction conversion chart aswell, very handy and a nice addition to the space. trying out the annular cutters, this I think is the best way to attack the overlapping holes that need sorted diff in and axle back together, couldn’t get the hubs back on as I think they have shrunk a little after the welding so I’ll need to spend a little time polishing the inside of them So as you do when friends are over you go through things and put the world to rights and we have come to the decision of “dont get it right, just get it done” so for the initial testing I’ll just use a standard set of diffs(with the rear welded of-course) this will give me an idea on how usable these are with a 3.54 ratio, if the 3.54 is strong enough then potentially the 2.88 is(maybe) or maybe I just have to deal with mog gearing and keep it on the safe side. the other thing I realised is my efforts to keep everything as narrow as I could has basically made it so I can’t fit a drag link bracket to the knuckle with a 16” wheel….so I’m going to haveto sacrifice a bit of width to be able to steer….pretty good trade off really and it opens up a lot of wheel options. @Bowie69 how many do you have? Let me know how much you want and postage and I’ll ping some money over to you other serious threat that is being made is to convert to d2 radius arms, these have bigger bushes and a wider separation between them to the defender flavour one so a big plus for portals and they’re also longer and mount to the side of the chassis like my trailing arms which I like but this adds up on this list of jobs to be done! thanks for reading…feel free to poke holes 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted December 31, 2023 Author Share Posted December 31, 2023 2 minutes ago, Stellaghost said: That's looking fantastic @dangerous dougthat's Regards Stephen Cheers Stephen, don’t know about fantastic but it’s together…. i now see why you heated and violated your mog arms so much for the steering 😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 The pictures bring back nice memories of when I did mine, although I have to say my back is aching thinking about it......lol Regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnoK Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 The annular cutters or an end mill should work nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted January 1 Author Share Posted January 1 11 hours ago, Stellaghost said: The pictures bring back nice memories of when I did mine, although I have to say my back is aching thinking about it......lol Regards Stephen When it came time to split my back twinged in protest and all I had done was pick up the 24mm spanners😂 that are not terrible but I wouldn’t want to do it too many more times…..shame that’s wishful thinking. I’ve had a brain fart and realise my steering won’t be a problem and think I’m going to adopt a steering arm like this it's a shame they arnt made anymore 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 @dangerous doug if they're LR studs they're M16x1.5 and grade 10.9 I think, I ordered a set of bolts and cut the heads off in the lathe, they're loctited into the hubs (as were the old set) and never came loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted January 1 Author Share Posted January 1 15 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said: @dangerous doug if they're LR studs they're M16x1.5 and grade 10.9 I think, I ordered a set of bolts and cut the heads off in the lathe, they're loctited into the hubs (as were the old set) and never came loose. Fridge, these are the diff studs that holds the diff to the axle case. Pretty sure they are a unf thread are sitting at about £7 each for only the stud. Is why I seriously considered tapping the housing but then decided against it I am doing exactly what you suggest for the studs in the hub but those are m14x1.5 and held in with the red loctite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 They’re the same thread as the propshaft bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted January 1 Author Share Posted January 1 4 minutes ago, landroversforever said: They’re the same thread as the propshaft bolts. But without the splines to stop them rotating. It’s fine, there are ways around it even if I do tap out the housings and tack the bolts from The inside. I was just hoping someone might have some scrap axle casings they don’t need the studs for😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 Yeah, I was just confirming the thread size. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 Any use Doug? https://www.lrparts.net/561196-stud-for-rover-type-diff-casing-3-8-unf-x-1-3-4-for-land-rover-series-2a-3-defender-discovery.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted January 1 Author Share Posted January 1 5 minutes ago, landroversforever said: Any use Doug? https://www.lrparts.net/561196-stud-for-rover-type-diff-casing-3-8-unf-x-1-3-4-for-land-rover-series-2a-3-defender-discovery.html You diamond Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 That looks good Doug, definitely 16" rims at any price, The question is, will your axles get used in 2024? Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted January 1 Author Share Posted January 1 27 minutes ago, Daan said: That looks good Doug, definitely 16" rims at any price, The question is, will your axles get used in 2024? Daan There are threats of this…but if they are then it’ll be limited. The truck itself needs work and a bit of money spent on it. I also need to over come the biggest hurdle and find someone that can machine down the mog shafts and re heat treat for me. However, assuming Ive welded everything together correctly and can finalise caliper brackets and drag link arm there isnt any reason they can’t be out towards the end of the year Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 23 hours ago, dangerous doug said: how many do you have? Let me know how much you want and postage and I’ll ping some money over to you Unsure, but had way more than I needed (only needed 2, had to buy about 8, IIRC, but can check tomorrow) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted January 2 Share Posted January 2 Will the track arm you have positioned in front of the axle clash with the power steering arm at full articulation, or is it made to clear Regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted January 2 Author Share Posted January 2 43 minutes ago, Stellaghost said: Will the track arm you have positioned in front of the axle clash with the power steering arm at full articulation, or is it made to clear Regards Stephen It shouldn’t but I’m not quite at the stage where I can make a solid call on that one mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 7 Share Posted January 7 Doug, I have five, three long and two short. If any good, pm me your address again and I'll stick them in the post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted January 10 Author Share Posted January 10 Sooooo, I did a little test set up on the drill to see how I was going to attack drilling and modding the holes. this isn’t going to work…. I knew they would be a pain to clamp but it’s not undoable. What I can’t deal with is doing a set up for every single hole. searching the internet I eventually found a cross slide for an ok price. It’s not to bad, I wanted an older used one but couldnt find one that was the size I needed so found this import one with a 600x240 bed. It’s not too bad, It has .001 runout across its whole travel which is good enough for me. So that’s the multi set up thing taken care of now I’m working out how to actually clamp it, I have a 3” tube clamp that I split to get 2 parts so there’s that. I was going to make a jig which can bolt to the table. anyone have a better idea to clamp it down? I’m new to the machining thing(I use machining loosely) and may be missing something. The side projects are stacking up on this build😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 As they’re round tube rather than the pressed parts of a standard case I’d try for large vee blocks under each side. Trying to remember how I machined my cases flat for the D44 diff pans, I want to say I sat it on the diff mounting face, and clamped it from the inside. Need to dig through my pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted January 11 Author Share Posted January 11 9 hours ago, landroversforever said: As they’re round tube rather than the pressed parts of a standard case I’d try for large vee blocks under each side. Trying to remember how I machined my cases flat for the D44 diff pans, I want to say I sat it on the diff mounting face, and clamped it from the inside. Need to dig through my pictures. V blocks were my first choice aswel but I think the pumpkin is too big to use them on the table. So the plan was to build a cradle with the 3” clamps I have but I’ve also just found out that 123blocks bolt together so maybe that saves me a bit of welding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 Can't you just offer up the diff and drill through? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted January 11 Author Share Posted January 11 7 hours ago, Daan said: Can't you just offer up the diff and drill through? For a few holes yes but 4 overlap and another one is in the diff cutout, so the plan is to drill them out with the annular cutters, fill them in with weld and re drill 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted January 21 Author Share Posted January 21 A lot done today without much to show. Managed to set up the axle on the compound table and I am a convert, the original plan was to do the job, take the table off and use the drill as normal but being able to move the work piece around without having to move and re clamp the vice is a very nice thing. found out pretty quickly that the annular cutters don’t really like interrupted cuts. Can’t really see in the photo that it climbed out of the hole and jammed up. Started again and eased off the pressure a bit untill the hole was established and all was well The evolution wand in action, I’ve had this for a while but never really used it, makes cleaning up a lot easier…..basically just a magnet in a tube assembled one hub fully so I can finalise caliper brackets and the drag link arm. Forget if I’ve said already but the spacers are going to need a little tickle on the lathe to clear the calipers So now on to the horse shoe for the high steer/track rod arm. Projected all the details onto a piece of card then moved it in each direction by 25mm to get my template Transferred to a bit of ali to make sure it’s going to work and this is what I got Ofcourse nothing is simple, going to have to shim the plate out when it’s done. But looks doable Then stated the same prowess with the caliper bracket, diddnt finish that as a friend popped round and I ran out of time to make noise. Luckily it looks like I can use a piece of 6mm steel, pick up off of the brake shoe mount with an m20 bolt and it’ll give me the exact spacing I need. the steering bracket will be made from 25mm plate but I cannot find any. Normal go to is eBay as I only need 300mmx200mm but there doesn’t seem to be any about at the moment so if anyone has anything like that they’re sick of tripping over, let me know and I’ll get it out of your way😁 still struggling with photo formatting so have to screenshot the photos and upload that 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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