Stellaghost Posted October 16, 2023 Share Posted October 16, 2023 19 minutes ago, dangerous doug said: I have considered welding them in but it’s a bit of a permanent solution to something that can be damaged easily. The option to change them out if needed is appealing. Did you happen to see how much room there is between the portal box and the back side of the hub? I will measure tomorrow, when I made mine I recessed where the stud locations are so it welded flush Regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted October 17, 2023 Share Posted October 17, 2023 Worth saying my studs are (and were) loctited in with the high-strength stuff, the original (too short) studs may have been peened on the back of the hub as a backup but not to a great extent. When I came to swap them I can confirm the loctite did a sterling job of holding them in until heated it beyond its release point with the blowlamp, at which point they came out smoothly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted October 17, 2023 Share Posted October 17, 2023 16 hours ago, dangerous doug said: Did you happen to see how much room there is between the portal box and the back side of the hub? @dangerous doug between the hub and the portal box is 5mm, however if you look at the photo the dark ring is where I Welded mine after recessing them in, this is outwith the portal box so plenty of room hope this helps regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted October 17, 2023 Author Share Posted October 17, 2023 Thanks to you both, I’ve ordered a set of OEM D2 studs today so we’ll see how I get on, looks like there is enough length in them to pass through the hub and spacer while leaving enough thread for the nuts Just need a new pillar drill now to finish the last of the stuff off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted October 27, 2023 Author Share Posted October 27, 2023 Ok, everything’s loosely slapped together And I think it’s going to work ok. The D2 wheel studs arrived but I’m not sure they’re going to work, there is around 3mm clearance behind the hub to the box and the stud head is 6ish mm. I could potentially take a bit of materials off of the back of the studs and a small ammount of material off of the portal box and this may stack up to allow me to use them. The alternative is to drill And tap the hubs, and loctite some studs in place. Lip of proposed attack is around the seal 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted October 29, 2023 Share Posted October 29, 2023 Loving this thread 😎 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted October 29, 2023 Author Share Posted October 29, 2023 6 hours ago, Hybrid_From_Hell said: Loving this thread 😎 Well high praise indeed! looking at it, do you think those 2.88R&P are going to be ok or should I just deal with it and run the hd 3.54? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 29, 2023 Share Posted October 29, 2023 You worried about them strength wise Doug? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted October 29, 2023 Author Share Posted October 29, 2023 Just now, landroversforever said: You worried about them strength wise Doug? After looking at them at niges place they are pretty thin and the rear will be running the wrong way…..they will be pegged and the 2:1 reduction in the portal box should take some Load off of them but I know very little about diff strength other than I should have probably just started with ford9s😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 29, 2023 Share Posted October 29, 2023 Ahh I see. I forget the diffs need flipping for the portals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted October 29, 2023 Share Posted October 29, 2023 14 minutes ago, dangerous doug said: After looking at them at niges place they are pretty thin and the rear will be running the wrong way😂 A question from the uneducated... Why will the rear be running the wrong way ? Regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted October 29, 2023 Author Share Posted October 29, 2023 12 minutes ago, landroversforever said: Ahh I see. I forget the diffs need flipping for the portals. Yes. So using a hd3.54 I can just swap the front and rear and all is well. I’ll just have to deal with the non existant gearing @Stellaghost suffered. That cobbled with a very really possibility of an engine change with a bit less RPM I don’t want to suffer too bad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted October 29, 2023 Author Share Posted October 29, 2023 1 minute ago, Stellaghost said: A question from the uneducated... Why will the rear be running the wrong way ? Regards Stephen Because the portals reverse the drive on “normal” diffs. This is accounted for in the mog diffs but not in the landy diffs so I’ll have to run them upside down or get a reverse rotation transfer box(all the money!) companies such as tibus, maer and maxxtraction put idler gears between the input and output gear of the portal to get around this 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 29, 2023 Share Posted October 29, 2023 5 minutes ago, dangerous doug said: Yes. So using a hd3.54 I can just swap the front and rear and all is well. I’ll just have to deal with the non existant gearing @Stellaghost suffered. That cobbled with a very really possibility of an engine change with a bit less RPM I don’t want to suffer too bad I assume you're meaning flip each one over in their original places? What's the engine plan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted October 29, 2023 Share Posted October 29, 2023 2 hours ago, dangerous doug said: Well high praise indeed! looking at it, do you think those 2.88R&P are going to be ok or should I just deal with it and run the hd 3.54? 2.88 are inheritabley weak with so many small teet wirh the portal reduction is go HD 3.5 rear and front cut pegged 👍 you could always drop the Rena box ashcroft now remake 1.003 😎 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted October 29, 2023 Author Share Posted October 29, 2023 45 minutes ago, Hybrid_From_Hell said: 2.88 are inheritabley weak with so many small teet wirh the portal reduction is go HD 3.5 rear and front cut pegged 👍 you could always drop the Rena box ashcroft now remake 1.003 😎 Yeah a 1:1 box is a must but it doesn’t do anything to the low range 😂 small update, the work space is tidier and there is space for the pillar drill if I find one. Moved the rear axle and very surprised I can lift it on my own with 2 axle stands strapped to it. my plan to tickle the portal box with a grinder wasn’t going to give me enough clearance either so I’ll be tapping the hubs and fitting studs @landroversforever not sure yet but it might have the wrong amount of cylinders 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted October 29, 2023 Share Posted October 29, 2023 5 hours ago, dangerous doug said: Because the portals reverse the drive on “normal” diffs. This is accounted for in the mog diffs but not in the landy diffs so I’ll have to run them upside down or get a reverse rotation transfer box(all the money!) companies such as tibus, maer and maxxtraction put idler gears between the input and output gear of the portal to get around this That is not quite true; you could either run them in the wrong direction or flip them like you have. in this configuration, they run exactly the same direction, just upside down. I doubt strength is an issue, with the 2:1 portal box reduction, the diff thinks it runs 18.5" tyres, so I don't think you would ever break the 2.88 diffs. Volvo diffs have a tiny crown wheel, about 7" in diameter, vs the land rover diff, which is 8.5". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted October 30, 2023 Share Posted October 30, 2023 12 hours ago, Daan said: Volvo diffs have a tiny crown wheel, about 7" in diameter, vs the land rover diff, which is 8.5". Volvo are a tad chunkier though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted November 12, 2023 Author Share Posted November 12, 2023 Hubs are nearly done! They would have been done today but I had an argument with a drill….more on this later. got my new 15mm spacers on Friday. These are welded to the hub to give the wheel studs a bit more support the studs themselves are still sitting 10mm into the existing hub flange so probably diddnt need to weld them on but it won’t hurt. Bolts in to keep everything where it should be during welding It was at this point I realised that i could not get the hubs clean enough to tig around the outside, probably could if I had a lathe and took A few MM off of the od but as discussed previously, I don’t have one so had to resort to the mig and the grinder that’s how I left them in Saturday, today was the day I was going to drill the holes to 12.5 for my m14x1.5 tap. They are both new and they are both decent enough quality…..would they work the way they should? Absolutely ****ing not! the drill holes are slightly undersize. This in of itsself isn’t the end of the world but this tap, although yielding great end results, required a lot more effort than I’m usedto when it comes to tapping. Normally I’ll put the tap In the drill to insure everything’s square and the turn the Chuck by hand…..NO! Could t do it, the Chuck was spinning on the tap before we could really get started so had to come up with a solution…and that solution is a 10mm Allen socket with a 3/8 drive. Chuck holds the Allen head, 3/8 drive holds the tap and away we go using a punch in the Chuck to turn it it worked but it took so long so I’ve only actually completed 1 hub today but it’s some progress once these are tapped and I finalise the design for the calliper bracket this side of things is done. It’s not the best mog disk conversion out there but it’s deffo not the worst! so the next thing will be the diffs…. not sure if I should just try the 2.88 and hope, or accept that that could be a pretty expensive experiment and just get hd3.54 and deal with the gearing at 7.08. originally (for simplicity) the idea was to have an atb in the front and a Detroit locker in the rear, like the 110 has now but im now considering ashlockers. What puts me off them is there’s an extra system to incorporate in the car, More electronics and more things to get bashed off or break. But then there’s the extra flexibility and turning circle. im Going to wire everything on post it notes, stick them to the wall and throw darts. Let fate decide😂 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD5toV8110 Posted November 12, 2023 Share Posted November 12, 2023 The first tap chart I checked suggested a 13mm drill for an M14 1.5 Maybe do a test hole at 13mm and see how it looks? Cheers Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 12, 2023 Share Posted November 12, 2023 Ought to be 12.5 surely? 14 - 1.5. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurbie Posted November 12, 2023 Share Posted November 12, 2023 M14x1.5 is 12.5 according to this chart : https://www.toolingcenterbenelux.nl/resources/media/TCB/Downloads/DORMER_Voorboor_diameters_tappen.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted November 12, 2023 Share Posted November 12, 2023 For metric, tapping drill is always major diameter minus the pitch. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 12, 2023 Share Posted November 12, 2023 I'd always assumed so! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD5toV8110 Posted November 21, 2023 Share Posted November 21, 2023 I always thought the pitch was the distance between the "peaks" of the thread rather than the depth of the "troughs"🤔 Cheers Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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