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MOG LR hybrid axle build


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22 minutes ago, dangerous doug said:

No one has got it yet!

 

for clarification these are empty casings

 

 

anyway, One done! I was going to do the rear today but ran out of time. A friend came over and we started discussing what paint to use, suspension choices and then put the world to rights 

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the castor is set to that of a standard landrover, hopefully that’ll work with the angle I set the portal boxes to as I couldn’t find that number online. Anyone happen to know? And anyone know the pinion angle of the rear diff….. admittedly it shouldn’t matter that much with a 110 but it’s nice to keep everything to how it should be

If you can , mock it up under the 110,  set what ever angle you feel comfortable with?     27 kg?

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Hot innit!

 

rear is set up, just need to do the tabs and could sling them under the truck to see if I’ve done anything right😂

 

I do hate These things…..I’m not even sure what you would call them, they take the place of the knuckles so Mercedes could make one axle case for the front and rear. But super ugly

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and Ofcourse dragged out the rear portal boxes to see what things look like. Diddnt have enough time to remove the drums but you get the idea.

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Also found a box of unused xcess4x4 axle trusses. Still undecided on it tbh. 
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Both front and rear will have some Sort of truss but I havnt decided on how yet. Top, bottom or front. 
 

now I must go clean up as the other half is fuming at how dirty I’ve come home. If you don’t hear from me again I want you all to know it was her!😂

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On 6/17/2023 at 9:05 PM, dangerous doug said:

Hot innit!

 

rear is set up, just need to do the tabs and could sling them under the truck to see if I’ve done anything right😂

 

I do hate These things…..I’m not even sure what you would call them, they take the place of the knuckles so Mercedes could make one axle case for the front and rear. But super ugly

7F895E5B-C0DD-47E4-B72A-00188BD1B09A.thumb.jpeg.63685a676b2874249d9ffe898aff8403.jpeg

08B8E39B-A580-4CDE-97CB-0DB2E0291170.thumb.jpeg.3ca67e418333341f620da5e096b6e211.jpeg
 

and Ofcourse dragged out the rear portal boxes to see what things look like. Diddnt have enough time to remove the drums but you get the idea.

752C5440-3637-423C-868B-EB19FCEC646F.thumb.jpeg.1dd26ead6d5ac381258dbbbd7c048d32.jpeg

Also found a box of unused xcess4x4 axle trusses. Still undecided on it tbh. 
6AC99808-C230-412B-831E-B3031FA29C4E.thumb.jpeg.9ed2a451d1b998be3cf911db67825d7d.jpeg

Both front and rear will have some Sort of truss but I havnt decided on how yet. Top, bottom or front. 
 

now I must go clean up as the other half is fuming at how dirty I’ve come home. If you don’t hear from me again I want you all to know it was her!😂

383B0F07-81BC-4D2C-B813-CD0BF805466A.jpeg

two thread's of mog porn on here.  🥰

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/19/2023 at 10:55 PM, Wytze said:

two thread's of mog porn on here.  🥰

Don’t know about porn, it just exists.

stephens on the other hand…..

 

 

anyway, I was sulking all weekend as I had to work Saturday and look after the other half who is faking back issues on Sunday(don’t tell her I said that or I will die😂) which ment no summer sisters and no time to work on the axles. So I’ve had to do what I can after work 

 

Anyway

 

Cut up some metal for the a frame mount. Was in need of some washers/spacers for the inside of the mount(will be clear later) and after tearing the place apart looking for something suitable I had a brainwave…..off to my mate for the correct flavour hole saw and we now have what we need8235798D-7472-4DE6-A817-FF90D9444A52.thumb.jpeg.fa299ec5cf1050f5315d4876ce2798fa.jpeg

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welded it all together and after all the time and effort I made to weld it square and keep it square(it still tweaked abit in the end) I realised that I hadn’t taken the centre measurement properly and had to trim the mount a fair bit.

Toasty!

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And tacked in place

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So the spacers were necessary to allow full movement of the joint…why this wasn’t built into the joint itsself is beyond me but it’s done. I might chamfer the top of them a bit to make it easier to get it in and out for servicing

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Next thing I’m a bit undecided about is which way to mount the brackets for the trailing arm mounts, if mounted the conventional way I’ll have to grind out most of the top to allow room for the gigglepin arms which I assume removes a fair bit of their strength but if mounted the other way it’ll just become a plow and fill up with crud. Unsure if it’s more efficient with the loadings one way or other either.

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they’re getting pretty close though

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everything is stitched together with a few inches of weld at the moment, until it’s all mocked up and I can be sure that I’ve done everything right I won’t commit to setting the welder to “war crimes” and making everything as permanent as possible……hope my decision to TIG everything won’t come back to haunt me

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6 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:

What wheel tyre combination are you using Doug, any idea what your total width with tyres will be ?

Regards Stephen

I can’t quite remember numbers on everything but it’s looking like an additional 5” of overall width with a 9” wide wheel and 37x12.50 trep.

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Just reading through this again ultimately, I think you've gone the better route than I did, axles will be lighter and you should have a bit more ground clearance as the rover diff case is smaller than the mog one, cannot wait to see these under your truck, however I would of really liked to see them under the lightweight more.........

Keep up the good work Doug

Regards Stephen

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9 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:

Just reading through this again ultimately, I think you've gone the better route than I did, axles will be lighter and you should have a bit more ground clearance as the rover diff case is smaller than the mog one, cannot wait to see these under your truck, however I would of really liked to see them under the lightweight more.........

Keep up the good work Doug

Regards Stephen


 

Stephen, it’s not better. Just different. Yes, they might be slightly lighter but yours will be stronger and use a lot of factory parts and easier to repair(if you need to repair). Everything is a compromise. We shall see in the end as we’re aiming for summer sister next year so if you’re there we’ll get an apples to oranges comparison and I honestly don’t think there will be much in it. 

 

I have another set of axle cases that would be easier to narrow if you fancy starting over….just saying😂

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17 minutes ago, dangerous doug said:

 

I have another set of axle cases that would be easier to narrow if you fancy starting over….just saying😂

Haha, would be quicker if I did it again, kinda half know what I'm doing now lol

Regards Stephen

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43 minutes ago, dangerous doug said:

Problem is they are both right hand thread so they won’t have the adjustment they would normally have. Mercedes decided to swage one joint on their track rods and I’m not sure how they adjusted them. 

sometimes when a swaged balljoint is used , the other side has a sleeve in between the track rod and the joint , the sleeve has internal (for the joint to fit) and external threads (for the sleeve to fit in the track rod) , so you can adjust the trackrod on one side .

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18 minutes ago, hurbie said:

sometimes when a swaged balljoint is used , the other side has a sleeve in between the track rod and the joint , the sleeve has internal (for the joint to fit) and external threads (for the sleeve to fit in the track rod) , so you can adjust the trackrod on one side .

This is what I was thinking, but I’ve tidied up and really could t be bothered to dig the track rod out again😂 we’re talking a couple of degrees at the end of the day and I don’t think it’ll matter much on something like this

 

9 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:

I made my own spring seats out of 3" box as I needed the height for the same reasons you do

 Regards Stephen

Edit : page 4

Oh I know, the photos are all saved on the camera roll for reference because I have little signal at the workshop 😂

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12 hours ago, hurbie said:

sometimes when a swaged balljoint is used , the other side has a sleeve in between the track rod and the joint , the sleeve has internal (for the joint to fit) and external threads (for the sleeve to fit in the track rod) , so you can adjust the trackrod on one side .

D2 and P38 I think are like this, it's not a bad setup.

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