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Series 2 "Restomod"?


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Hi all, 

After much prompting from @Stellaghost(and by prompting I mean borderline abuse 😂) I am going to log my build some n this thread for anyone who is interested.

I used the words restomod but not sure if it is classed as that so I'll let the good people of the forum decide. But enough waffle and let's get on with it. 

Back in 2016 I bought myself a 1960 series 2 and pottered about with it for a bit before it was parked up in the unit with the intention of rebuilding. It got partly stripped and then left for too many years. So decision has been made that I need to get something done with it so planning a complete rebuild with some modifications where things can be made more reliable, modern or user friendly. 

So here is what is currently planned: 

Complete new custom galv chassis from Richards Chassis

Disco 1 axles front and rear

LT77 box and LT230 transfer

3.9/4.0 rover V8

P38 power steering 

Series 3 galvanised bulkhead

Series 3 dash

Heated windscreen

Bikini top and roll bar

Led lights all round (including headlights) 

And of course new paint interior etc. 

So got some of the mountain of carp removed from it today and here she stands in none of her glory: 

IMG_20230909_173431.thumb.jpg.8e1dd04865c93533cef89e5936b148cc.jpg

You can see there is still some stuff on it but the bulk of it has been removed. I also got the axles dragged out ready to strip them and start working on them:

IMG_20230909_163915.thumb.jpg.4f577bb532f53aa84d2245dd00bebd51.jpg

IMG_20230909_163920.thumb.jpg.1c533f4401cad1efae5f7fd3287ff25d.jpg

So, the plan of action is to get these stripped down, remove all that doesn't need to be on them, weld on mounts for leaf springs, rebuild, paint etc.. and then I will order my glav chassis. That way, when it arrives, I can immediately make it a rolling chassis! 

 

Hope this is of interest to some, I am at least interested in it! 

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Just now, Stinkfloyd said:

Hi all, 

After much prompting from @Stellaghost(and by prompting I mean borderline abuse 😂) I am going to log my build some n this thread for anyone who is interested.

I used the words restomod but not sure if it is classed as that so I'll let the good people of the forum decide. But enough waffle and let's get on with it. 

Back in 2016 I bought myself a 1960 series 2 and pottered about with it for a bit before it was parked up in the unit with the intention of rebuilding. It got partly stripped and then left for too many years. So decision has been made that I need to get something done with it so planning a complete rebuild with some modifications where things can be made more reliable, modern or user friendly. 

So here is what is currently planned: 

Complete new custom galv chassis from Richards Chassis

Disco 1 axles front and rear

LT77 box and LT230 transfer

3.9/4.0 rover V8

P38 power steering 

Series 3 galvanised bulkhead

Series 3 dash

Heated windscreen

Bikini top and roll bar

Led lights all round (including headlights) 

And of course new paint interior etc. 

So got some of the mountain of carp removed from it today and here she stands in none of her glory: 

IMG_20230909_173431.thumb.jpg.8e1dd04865c93533cef89e5936b148cc.jpg

You can see there is still some stuff on it but the bulk of it has been removed. I also got the axles dragged out ready to strip them and start working on them:

IMG_20230909_163915.thumb.jpg.4f577bb532f53aa84d2245dd00bebd51.jpg

IMG_20230909_163920.thumb.jpg.1c533f4401cad1efae5f7fd3287ff25d.jpg

So, the plan of action is to get these stripped down, remove all that doesn't need to be on them, weld on mounts for leaf springs, rebuild, paint etc.. and then I will order my glav chassis. That way, when it arrives, I can immediately make it a rolling chassis! 

 

Hope this is of interest to some, I am at least interested in it! 

Also, pictures seem to be upside down. They were uploaded the right way up.but seem to get flipped for some reason? If anyone knows how to sort this, please let me know!

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Will be interesting to see just how far you'll take this....

Galvanized chassis

Galvanized bulkhead

disk brakes all round

Brake servo

Powersteering

LT77 + LT 230 (that is something I really look forward to see how it fits...)

Defender seats

 

Interesting...

 

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10 hours ago, Arjan said:

Will be interesting to see just how far you'll take this....

Galvanized chassis

Galvanized bulkhead

disk brakes all round

Brake servo

Powersteering

LT77 + LT 230 (that is something I really look forward to see how it fits...)

Defender seats

 

Interesting...

 

Not sure I will be fitting defender seats, though they I won't be fitting standard ones I will be looking for something slimline as I'm just shy of 6ft 3. So space is at a premium in the cab! 

 

As for how far it goes. I have a galvanised series 3 bulkhead sitting next to the land rover, alongside an lt77 box and 2 lt230's and the axles are out and ready to be worked on. Fitting the engine and box and axles won't be too difficult. Wee bit cutting and welding and in they go (maybe need custom props but no big issue) the trick is getting that remade correctly on the galv chassis! 

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9 hours ago, TD5toV8110 said:

Hey @Stinkfloyd shouldn't a 1960 have lights in the grille? 🤔

You are correct! However its a bit of a bitza with what I think is a 5 bearing crank engine, a series 2 bulkhead, series 3 wings etc. I also remember trying to figure out the difference between series 1 and series 2 chassis and axles and I think it has series 2 chassis with 1 series 3 axle and one series 2 axle.

Hence why I'm happy to modify it because it was never a pristine example to begin with. 

Ohh and a wiring loom that I'm 90% sure would catch fire if I left a charged battery on it for any more than 15 minutes 😂

Edited by Stinkfloyd
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12 hours ago, Stinkfloyd said:

Also, pictures seem to be upside down. They were uploaded the right way up.but seem to get flipped for some reason? If anyone knows how to sort this, please let me know!

And there was me thinking you had mastered gravity! 😜

Good luck with the project.  I have several of those mods on a 109, and it makes for an excellent vehicle - more comfortable than my wife’s 2009 90XS (except noise levels), more stable, the 109 had around 2/3 the turn radius of the 90 (so your 88 will be like a mountain goat) and loads of character.  It’ll be an eminently practical car, as long as you don’t cut any corners.

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14 minutes ago, Snagger said:

And there was me thinking you had mastered gravity! 😜

Good luck with the project.  I have several of those mods on a 109, and it makes for an excellent vehicle - more comfortable than my wife’s 2009 90XS (except noise levels), more stable, the 109 had around 2/3 the turn radius of the 90 (so your 88 will be like a mountain goat) and loads of character.  It’ll be an eminently practical car, as long as you don’t cut any corners.

Not just mastering gravity.. reinventing it!

 

Great to hear you have done similar, with regards to the turn radius, did you refit standard series wheels or did you go to a wider wheel? 

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I used a D1 200Tdi front axle and an early 110 Salisbury rear converted for the D1 brakes.  I have alloy wheels on it, but that makes little difference as you wouldn’t fit 235/85s to a regular steel wheel (only to Wolf or Discovery steel rims).

The P38 box has wider throw than the steering units of a Series vehicle, so that is also part of why the lock increases so much, not just the use of CV joints in the swivels and the swivels being about 3” further outboard of the chassis.

Just be aware that the saddles to mount the axles to the springs are a fair bit taller than on the original axles because of the diff being further outboard on the later axles - the curve of the housing sits over the spring, so the saddles have to accommodate that.  Extended spring hangars and 1-ton shackles will deal with it.  You also need to keep the 3 degree castor on the front axle, so the diff will point up quite a lot and you might have issues with clearance from the right side engine mount on hard braking (spring compression and axle wrap combine).  This geometry can also cause some prop shaft vibration as the UJs are no longer equally deflected - in my case, with standard SIII transmission, the front UJ is nearly straight but the rear is quite cranked.  With the LT230, your prop geometry might be quite different to mine, but it is an issue to consider.

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1 hour ago, Snagger said:

I used a D1 200Tdi front axle and an early 110 Salisbury rear converted for the D1 brakes.  I have alloy wheels on it, but that makes little difference as you wouldn’t fit 235/85s to a regular steel wheel (only to Wolf or Discovery steel rims).

The P38 box has wider throw than the steering units of a Series vehicle, so that is also part of why the lock increases so much, not just the use of CV joints in the swivels and the swivels being about 3” further outboard of the chassis.

Just be aware that the saddles to mount the axles to the springs are a fair bit taller than on the original axles because of the diff being further outboard on the later axles - the curve of the housing sits over the spring, so the saddles have to accommodate that.  Extended spring hangars and 1-ton shackles will deal with it.  You also need to keep the 3 degree castor on the front axle, so the diff will point up quite a lot and you might have issues with clearance from the right side engine mount on hard braking (spring compression and axle wrap combine).  This geometry can also cause some prop shaft vibration as the UJs are no longer equally deflected - in my case, with standard SIII transmission, the front UJ is nearly straight but the rear is quite cranked.  With the LT230, your prop geometry might be quite different to mine, but it is an issue to consider.

A lot of crucial information sandwiched in that post! It will all come in handy as I progress. I am a good bit off fitting them yet but when the time comes, I will certainly be giving you a shout with my woes to see if it was something you had overcome! 

The spring saddle information will be VERY useful in the more immediate future though! You've saved me buying the wrong parts 😁

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1 hour ago, Daan said:

Hi, looking forward to the build. Many has gone before you on here. I have a similar vehicle with a 300 TDI and coil springs.

Daan

Hi Daan, glad to hear there are people who have done similar! Was tempted to go coils but decided that since it wont be my daily driver or an overlanding rig, the novelty of bouncing may way down the road was worth it... I will likely be proved wrong after my first long journey but if that's my greatest mistake from the build then I'll take it haha 

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About bloody time..........

Looking forward to this, now your actually going to do something, instead of pontificating about it....

Think long and hard about your rear prop set-up, I had the lt77 and lt230 in my lightweight, still have, but to make it work prior to increasing my wheelbase I altered my diff nose angle so prop shaft was at a less severe angle, having said that LGT gets by ok with a very short prop

Good luck I'm looking forward to see if you can justify the engineer in your title...........lol

Regards Stephen

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On 9/9/2023 at 8:40 PM, TD5toV8110 said:

Having to move engine way back to accommodate lights in grille.🤪

I'd wonder if LED lights plus some cunning would make it easier than the very deep standard halogen / sealed beam units, might get away with a lot more space.

Also you've probably alrady seen it but @Bigj66's SWB S3 V8 build may give you some inspiration:

 

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On 9/10/2023 at 8:38 AM, Stinkfloyd said:

Not sure I will be fitting defender seats, though they I won't be fitting standard ones I will be looking for something slimline as I'm just shy of 6ft 3. So space is at a premium in the cab! 

There are some nice aftermarket seats for the S2/3 now.

On the wheels - I love the look of ‘standard’ steel wheels - you can get the beaded rims from SP4x4 for a decent price - so you can fit tubeless modern tyres, and with the wider axles it should fill the arches nicely. 
 

https://www.sp-4x4.com/ANR4636PM_LR053845_land_rover_standard_steel_wheel_p/lr053845.htm

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On 11/2/2023 at 8:19 PM, hario' said:

Cool build, updates?????? ;)

Updates.. inhave spent the last 6 weeks working in Ireland unfortunately however I did manage to get some bits and bobs sold on the odd few days I was visiting home to fund the build 😁

Got a 200tdi engine as the next item needing shifted and then I can get my engine picked up and start measuring things up. 

Work, wife and 10 month old sprog also like to consume time like a doctor who villain but we will get some much heeded garage time soon as i have a lump of time off in December which I am quietly excited about. 

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On 11/5/2023 at 10:12 AM, Anderzander said:

There are some nice aftermarket seats for the S2/3 now.

On the wheels - I love the look of ‘standard’ steel wheels - you can get the beaded rims from SP4x4 for a decent price - so you can fit tubeless modern tyres, and with the wider axles it should fill the arches nicely. 
 

https://www.sp-4x4.com/ANR4636PM_LR053845_land_rover_standard_steel_wheel_p/lr053845.htm

Thanks for the advice it w I understand aplaear that series land rovers are in fashion at the moment so there does seem to be an increasing range of interior improvements out there. 

 

Also, massive thanks for the SP4X4 link. They will likely get a visit off future me.

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On 11/3/2023 at 12:04 PM, landroversforever said:

I've found the issue with the photos can sometimes be solved by opening to edit them on my phone camera roll, doing a full rotation of them and then saving. Uploading then puts them the right way. It's like the phone occasionally forgets the rotation data from the camera originally. 

Thanks for that. Such a nightmare but at least it's a solution haha 

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