JST Posted August 8, 2005 Share Posted August 8, 2005 apart from Galvanising it Any ideas what is the best paint to use on the rear cross member to stop it rusting and lasts more than 12mths before it has to be recoated? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chadler Posted August 8, 2005 Share Posted August 8, 2005 I'm convinced the worst thing you can do to a chassis is paint it, it just flakes off and chips. Give it a good wire brushing and black waxoyl it. After a few coats applied whenever the mood takes you you'll get a decent tough coating on the steel, rather than a shiny hammerite skin that conceals rust and comes off in sheets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted August 8, 2005 Author Share Posted August 8, 2005 for the chassis i agree although am after something a bit better for the cross member you recommend the same? plus any ideas why this post is here twice now anyone????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siggy Posted August 8, 2005 Share Posted August 8, 2005 there is a company out there the will protect you they were formed in the vietnam imprisoned for a crime it didn't commit it promptly escaped so may be if you lucky you'll be able to find the kleenteam sorry kleentech car warmed up coat on heading for it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NegevLandRover Posted August 8, 2005 Share Posted August 8, 2005 plus any ideas why this post is here twice now anyone????? And I thought that you were just trying to be clever and get your "newbie" upgraded to something more fitting by double posting Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chadler Posted August 8, 2005 Share Posted August 8, 2005 no idea why its appeared twice, maybe if i post this then it will go up for a third time! Yup, waxoyl for everything i say. I've done my chassis about once a year with it, and all the bits in reach whenever i expose part of it for maintainance, now the whole chassis has a nice matt black coating that seems to be impervious to everything, the crossmember looks great, i'm always suspect of a gloss black painted rear crossmember, normally means the rest of the chassis is in a shocking state! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted August 8, 2005 Share Posted August 8, 2005 You can try Dinitrol 445 or 447 antistone chip paint and then over paint or wax with Waxoyl or Dinitrol 441 Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARIF Posted August 10, 2005 Share Posted August 10, 2005 (My second post on this new Board!) I'm precisely at the same point with my 2002 TD5 - rear cross-member surface rust appearing now. Aaargh!! I certainly like the idea of using underbody wax - but does/will this not come off on clothes? When rummaging about in the back of my Landie, when still standing outside, but leaning well in to the load-space - the fronts of my legs are leaning quite heavily into the cross-member. Any experience? Is 28 degrees Celsius enough to start making it gummy? I've just bought about 5 cans of Dinitrol '4641' (IIRC). And then their brown cavity wax, too. (From Frost's) Thanks in advance, all...! Arif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Reedy Posted August 10, 2005 Share Posted August 10, 2005 Just rub down to remove the loose stuff then coat liberally with POR15 from Frost. Then mix any wax with kerosine, enough to make it stay liquid at ambient temperature, and spray it on. And no, don't do the rear crossmember outside, it will look a mess. Best just leave the bare POR15, which will fade to a sort of dark grey. While you're in waxing mode, put on the long probe and wiggle it up through the drain holes in the bulkhead legs, above the two big bolts, until you can hear the end scratching around right up in the top corner of the BH, then squeeze the trigger and let it gush out while slowly withdrawing the probe. Your Landy will thank you for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reads90 Posted August 12, 2005 Share Posted August 12, 2005 apart from Galvanising itAny ideas what is the best paint to use on the rear cross member to stop it rusting and lasts more than 12mths before it has to be recoated? Get it painted like this and it won't rust. Ours was done 26 months ago and still looks like this today 26 months ago the other week as you can see it is still fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan Posted August 12, 2005 Share Posted August 12, 2005 So what was it painted with ? Ivan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fisha Posted August 12, 2005 Share Posted August 12, 2005 thats just what i was going to ask. personal plan for the rear half of the RR is to brush off the worst of the rust. paint it with POR15, and then a normal style paint ( not hammerite ) and then waxoyl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Des Morgan Posted August 12, 2005 Share Posted August 12, 2005 All I did to the 2A chassis was: 1. Wire brush it. 2. Cold Galv. 3. Apply thinnned down Bitumious paint , ober the new steel brake lines as well. 4. Let it dry. Optioal: Use a Rust neutraliser such as Rust Eater or its equivalent. I didn't. 6 years on it's as good as the day it was applied. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M005 Posted August 12, 2005 Share Posted August 12, 2005 I am sure Tony (White90) will have some comments on POR15, however after using on the chassis of the 110, I would have to say that I can't confirm the marketing blurb. After 6 months or so it had started to peel off, the surface was pitted and generally not much (if any) improved over Hammerite. Also note that POR15 works 'best' on a slightly rust surface (albeit one that has been throughily cleaned with degreaser). Tony will be able to provide a view of the longer term durability as he still has the vehicle he applied it to. I think Darthdicky may have also applied to his 90? A search on the old forum will throw up some long posts on POR15 which may make useful reading Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiWhite Posted August 12, 2005 Share Posted August 12, 2005 I have to say that my experiences with POR 15 haven't been all that great either! My little sis is sponsered by Blakes - they make boat paint amongst other things. I've just taken delivery of a great big tin of epoxy paint. This stuff (the expxy primer undercoat) IMHO if it's good enough for painting the hulls of steel ships then it should last on a Landie! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted August 16, 2005 Author Share Posted August 16, 2005 so, Reads 90 - and it is treated with.................................................????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reads90 Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 so, Reads 90 - and it is treated with.................................................????? Painted with normal halfords rust prevet stuff (several coats), then rubbed down and painted with black car body paint (several coats again). Then Lackered Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 I put POR15 on my chassis and it's stuck brilliantly to the slightly rusty rear section of chassis, but peeled off in sheets on any vaguely smooth metal or with a coat of paint over it (fuel tank etc.). Depends on the condition of your chassis, but I'd say it has to be fairly rusty to actually make it stick. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted August 17, 2005 Author Share Posted August 17, 2005 richard, exactly what i found, if you put it on a smooth surface (POR15 that is) it just peals off, but sticks to rust like bu****y. in the end i sued 1 coat of POR15, 1 coat of chassis black from the same people. the finish looked horrendous though so it then got 3 coats of spray on smooth hammerite. will see how long that lasts. i last did it 2 or maybe 3 yrs ago with just the POR15 and the chassis black which shows why the chassis black was now a poor finsih being 2/3 yrs years old - that stuff, like POR15 is difficult to keep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted August 18, 2005 Share Posted August 18, 2005 POR15 should be POS15 IMHO biggest waste of time/money on my 90 rust/clean/flat/shiney/rough it peeled off of all of them... Halfords Matt Black enamel is all I use now hard wearing and easy to recoat. my rollcage is painted with it and no paint has been lost even after contact with trees. the POS15 is still peeling to this day I'll be glad when it has all fallen off. and yes I did follow the instructions with metal ready primer etc etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headhunter Posted August 20, 2005 Share Posted August 20, 2005 The spray shop I use recommend Granville Paint Product Granville Hammer and Smooth Finish Paint. Product Description Granville Hammer and smooth Finish gives an attractive and protective finish to all types of substrate. On ferrous substrates it provides a tough impermeable barrier to air and moisture which effectively seals out corrosion. Unlike currently available metal finishes, it does not contain harmful solvents and has been designed to be slower drying making it easier and safer to use. Suggested Uses: For use as a decorative / protective coating for bicycles, forktrucks, garden furniture, trailers, tanks, caravans, cars, etc. Can also be used on wood. Preparation On ferrous substrates it is recommended to wire brush and abrade to remove loose material and to provide a key. It is also recommended to wash the surface with detergent and water to remove oil and grease. They say it is highly durable and ideal for rear xmembers. Hope this helps. John Application Brush: Using a suitable sized brush apply paint evenly using multi-directional strokes. Apply paint thickly and evenly then level out to avoid runs and sags. Roller: Use a natural fibre roller. Cover the area evenly. Some thinning may be required. Spray: Thin with white spirit. Apply multiple coats allowing paint to dry between coats. Use a gun pressure of 30-40 psi. Cleaning Use white spirit or turpentine substitute for thinning product and cleaning equipment. Granville Oil & Chemicals Ltd, Unit 29 Goldthorpe Industrial Estate, Goldthorpe, Rotherham, South Yorkshire S63 9BL Tel: +44 (0)1709-890099 E-Mail: info@granville-oilchem.co.uk Touch dry 1.5 hours Tack free 4.0 hours Overcoating After 12 hours Salt spray: Panels coated with Granville metal finish will pass 1000 hours salt spray exposure to ASTM B117 when applied to the recommended film thickness of 100 um. Artificial weathering: After 600 hours exposure to ASTM G53-77 panels coated with Granville metal finish will show minimal colour and gloss degradation. Impact resistance: DIN 55 669 Granville metal finish paint once cured shows excellent impact resistance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbilly Raider Posted August 22, 2005 Share Posted August 22, 2005 Mine went rusty and i have been nagging other half for months to do something about it. Other week was doing a photo shoot for a mag and wanted it seeing to before said shoot. What did other half do?.... BACK TO BL**DY BLACK BUMPER POLISH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (did look good for a day or 2 i must admit!) Needless to say he aint getting away with it!! LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidov1 Posted August 25, 2005 Share Posted August 25, 2005 My little sis is sponsered by Blakes - they make boat paint amongst other things.This stuff (the expxy primer undercoat) IMHO if it's good enough for painting the hulls of steel ships then it should last on a Landie! Blakes grey metallic primer really does stop rust on clean bare metal,I've used it on mild steel boat fittings which were in salt water for 6 months and there wasn't a trace of rust on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmy Two-Jacks Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 (My second post on this new Board!) I'm precisely at the same point with my 2002 TD5 - rear cross-member surface rust appearing now. Aaargh!! I certainly like the idea of using underbody wax - but does/will this not come off on clothes? When rummaging about in the back of my Landie, when still standing outside, but leaning well in to the load-space - the fronts of my legs are leaning quite heavily into the cross-member. Any experience? Is 28 degrees Celsius enough to start making it gummy? I've just bought about 5 cans of Dinitrol '4641' (IIRC). And then their brown cavity wax, too. (From Frost's) Thanks in advance, all...! Arif Don't worry if you are in Britain that kind of weather is rare! You could try 3M shutz that says on the tin it sets but I don't know if it will transfer when the weather is warm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmy Two-Jacks Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 Or you could use (cold) galvanising paint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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