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Posted

What bits have fallen off / broken / failed so far?

Touch wood apart from having to be about two inches away from the vehicle before the keyfob works mine has been ....no I can't bring myself to actually say just in case sods law causes something to go bang :unsure:

The fuel gauge seems even quirkier than the TD5's. Fill the tank and drive - the gauge needle doesn't move for ages and then goes slowly down to the halfway mark, once past halfway it makes a quick dash toward empty :huh:

Posted
The fuel gauge seems even quirkier than the TD5's. Fill the tank and drive - the gauge needle doesn't move for ages and then goes slowly down to the halfway mark, once past halfway it makes a quick dash toward empty :huh:

Don't most of them do that? If I top off my Discovery V8 I can get about 80 miles before the gauge starts to move, but I am lucky to get 80 miles out of the last half of the tank...

Moral of the story is never to go anywhere on less than half a tank of fuel :)

There are a few round here but none have gone wrong yet :)

Posted

Well, mines is all OK as we speak, now the ABS lead have been changes, not problems :ph34r::blink: not water leaks,

Your fob is the same on mine, real poor, even compared with a TD5 !! which thought not good, has twice the range

Still have to see better than 23 mpg !!

I did here that since mid October, they now come with NO under body waxing whatsoever !!

Posted
Don't most of them do that? If I top off my Discovery V8 I can get about 80 miles before the gauge starts to move, but I am lucky to get 80 miles out of the last half of the tank...

Moral of the story is never to go anywhere on less than half a tank of fuel :)

There are a few round here but none have gone wrong yet :)

Yes but this one seems more marked than others - maybe just that the gauge is bigger and has a larger sweep.

Posted

Mines ok as well fitted some LR black wingtops ,one niggle though when turning left or right into a juntion 2nd gear seems to low and 3rd to high ,maybe its because i drive a van during the week and jump in the 110 at weekends

Posted
Mines ok as well fitted some LR black wingtops ,one niggle though when turning left or right into a juntion 2nd gear seems to low and 3rd to high ,maybe its because i drive a van during the week and jump in the 110 at weekends

I struggle to adjust to the 07 gearbox because it's not my regular drive. Still no (real) problems with tyhe one i'm running around with at the moment. Only just coming up to it's first k miles though

Posted
I struggle to adjust to the 07 gearbox because it's not my regular drive. Still no (real) problems with tyhe one i'm running around with at the moment. Only just coming up to it's first k miles though

Not only me then???

Posted

1500 miles in my 90 now. Been superb the engine is brill for towing, the low first gear really helps. There was one small electrical niggle but that was sorted by Hartwells with 24 hours. I am very impressed with the service guys there. Overall very good.

Posted

I took an 07 90 out for a spin the other day (dealer opposite where I was working - dangerous).

Wasn't expecting to like it - actually no, was hoping I didn't like it so I wouldn't crave one.

What's going on with first gear? With an entire low ratio box at your disposal, why would they have thought you'd need such a low first? Having said that, the change was very smooth and slick.

Other than that, I have to say that it was a very nice drive. The dash was great - I was expecting to dismiss it as not being agricultural enough but I thought it looked very smart and worked very well. Heater was awesome (in comparison with my TD5). Loved the rev counter.

Obviously, apart from that it was business as usual but the cabin felt like a nicer place to be and it was easier to drive (apart from that rediculous 1st gear - do you end up pulling away in 2nd all the time?).

I just have this niggling doubt about the transit engine. Obviously it has proved its ability over many 100s k in a van but the TD5 was designed for off-road use in terrible conditions with terrible fuel. It was designed to work on Kerosene! I just wonder how well suited the Ford engine really is.

When we look back in 20 years at the continued evolution of the Land Rover we will recognise that there was scepticism over the TD5 and its electronics but that it ultimately proved to be very reliable and suitable. Will we say the same about the Ford engine or will it go down in history as one of the cost-cutting, legislation-driven measures that compromised the edge of the Landy?

Posted

i use 2nd alot for pulling away rather than 1st. 1st is 33% lower than td5 1st and 6th is 25% higher than td5 fifth.

My dealer also mention that post Oct/Nov they wouldnt have underseal.

Posted
i use 2nd alot for pulling away rather than 1st. 1st is 33% lower than td5 1st and 6th is 25% higher than td5 fifth.

My dealer also mention that post Oct/Nov they wouldnt have underseal.

what modern car maker doesn't put underseal or some other type of corrosion protection on their cars - isnt this a MAJOR step back into the dark ages !

Posted
what modern car maker doesn't put underseal or some other type of corrosion protection on their cars - isnt this a MAJOR step back into the dark ages !

presumably they'll try and sell you a more comprehensive coating as an extra. The underseal was patchy at best.

Posted

NO manufacturers underseal cars now. Typical protection now is by electro-phosphate paint layer and wax injection in the lower body cavities on steel bodies.

To realise how effective this is, think about how many rusty cars you see on the road compared to say 20 years ago.

Mo

Posted
Obviously, apart from that it was business as usual but the cabin felt like a nicer place to be and it was easier to drive (apart from that rediculous 1st gear - do you end up pulling away in 2nd all the time?).

You can pull away in 2nd. I do a bit with no trailer on.

When I have got a loaded trailer on the low 1st really makes sense though, it is a superb combination at high speed with the 6th gear and great for slow manouvering with a heavy trailer (no need to ride on the clutch in reverse either). I have pulled some pretty heavy loads up wet fields and never needed to use low range ( though I do use low range every now and again cause I heard the lever sticks if you dont).

BTW is there a trick to get it to go into Low range and Low Diff easily? I always end up stopping and feeding 2nd gear in on the clutch slightly then it goes in. Maybe it is just me but I hate the feeling of forcing it in. I always try to be gentle and avoid the loud crunches when changing.

Cheers. Jonathan

Posted
BTW is there a trick to get it to go into Low range and Low Diff easily? I always end up stopping and feeding 2nd gear in on the clutch slightly then it goes in. Maybe it is just me but I hate the feeling of forcing it in.

I usually change when the vehicle is still moving very slowly (<1mph) then it goes in straight away.

Posted
that rediculous 1st gear - do you end up pulling away in 2nd all the time?).

Did the one you drove have 205s on? Just wait till you have to do a hill start with 33" tyres on and a Range Rover on a trailer... :)

Chris

Posted
The fuel gauge seems even quirkier than the TD5's. Fill the tank and drive - the gauge needle doesn't move for ages and then goes slowly down to the halfway mark, once past halfway it makes a quick dash toward empty :huh:
Don't most of them do that? If I top off my Discovery V8 I can get about 80 miles before the gauge starts to move, but I am lucky to get 80 miles out of the last half of the tank...

Yep, most gauges do that - the reason behind the 'quirkier' fuel gauge is explained as follows.

Research has shown that the majority of drivers don't like, once having filled there vehicles with fuel, to see the fuel gauge needle start dropping as soon as the engine is running. Therefore the gauge is keep pointing to the max for a longer period of time so to give the impression that all the fuel you've just put into your tank is still there. After a number of miles - varies between car companies - but usually around 50 miles, the gauge will start to move from max (check it next time you fill the tank - but this really does depend on how you drive etc). Then the gauge works as normal till you start getting low, at this point it shows you have less in your tank than you really do - to try and encourge you to fill up before you get to all that muck in the bottom of your tank.

So what happens in real life is, you fill the tank up - gauge doesn't move. Then it has to move from max to min very quickly to show less fuel then you really have, but then normal can stay on min for a while.

Posted

Bah. If they had researched me I would have told them I wanted a gauge that showed how much effn fuel there was in the tank :rtfm:

Think you are right though - every vehicle I have had does the same. A 2.5 petrol engined 90 has a range of about 50 miles if you are lucky, on the bottom half of the tank...

Posted

Also means the gauge moves most, so is technically more accurate when you are low. Does not matter that it does not move much if you are full.

Every car I've had has been like this, not just Landrovers.

I got a surprise from my 07 defender yesterday. There was a loud beep as the fuel light came on.

Do they think we are not capable of watching a gauge?

Rich

Posted

Mine's now done approx 8,800 miles - very pleased still with comfort and fuel economy. The heater and air-con is great (compared to my TD5 110).

Issues / fixes so far:

Front discs replaced - originals warped on holiday in France.

NSR door lock motor replaced - got sticky and ran on.

OSR 7th seat frame replaced - stiff to operate.

Rattly brake pads from day one caused by pads loose in calipers - new pads and calipers made no difference. Fixed by dealer fitted a 'mod' in to the edge of pads - now includined in their PDI.

Underbody cleaned and treated fully to resolve patchy underseal.

Posted

9.5k miles covered:

1. I changed the oil at 6k for piece of mind as I don't believe any oil lasts 12k.

2. I agree with most here that 1st is very low but is good for starting off with a trailer on like I have to quite alot, I quite often set off in 2nd if I haven't got a trailer on or I'm not on an incline.

3. Only problem, the underseal was carp. I paid to have the job done properly and had the chassis cavities and bulkhead injected at an independant specialist.

Posted

I was wondering if somebody knows more about the so called "oil sump problem".

What I know:

1. when the vehicle is loaded, off road conditions, diving/bouncing on front axle (sometimes associated with a left turn at the same time) the front prop shaft may come in contact with the oil sump (facts and pictures: http://www.viermalvier.de/forum_php/showfl...p;Number=457494 page 1&2 and some other places); there were at least 3 reports

2. LR works on a fix for this; for the moment, if this happens, the "fix" is to replace the oil sump with a (same design) new one and "take it easy" :)

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