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Wading. How exactly?


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Hi all,

Bit wary about posting this after reading a thread earlier re. intercoolers, and the question asker being called, quite unfairly, an idiot.

I have actually driven through fairly deep water before, a couple of feet....and it turns out its my favourite thing I have done since owning my first Land Rover.

However, I dont REALLY know what gear I ought to be using whenever I do find something to drive through. I have a snorkel, but dont plan on going through owt as deep as making it absolutely necessary.

I went through a ford that was quite swollen after all those rains and floods earlier this year, and I could feel the resistance against the vehicle, but was slightly alarmed and uneasy, as it felt substantially different to when it was about a foot lower.

I know about bow waves (sort of) but is there a definitive gear to use for river crossings? Am I right in thinking that I dont have to use Low ratio? What can go wrong if I were to stall?

Any advice greatly received.

Apologies in advance if its a silly question and you want to call me an idiot! (you know who you are, Mr Snotty answer - see intercooler question in International forum!)

Martin

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First off, is yours a TDi? If so, life is a bit easier in some respects and more labor intensive in others.

A low gear that lets you keep the revs up at a nice gentle bow-wave speed is what you need - this will vary with conditions and is mostly down to your judgment. On road, high 1st is probably fine unless you're in some seriously deep water.

PM me your e-mail address and I will send you a couple of articles on wading.

Ignore the flaming idiot in the intercooler thread - like the rest of us, it's not like he's never asked a stupid question on this forum :rolleyes:

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There's certainly no need to be wary, sorry if you've had a bad introduction to the forum.

Fridgefreezer is bound to send you some good articles. I found that David Bowyer's excellent "Learn With David" section on his website covers wading in detail and the necessary vehicle preparation.

link

Speaking as an amateur, it does depend on depth and seriousness of the ford. For shallow concrete based fords I would be happy with High First, and for anything approaching serious I generally am in low ratio and in second gear, and it would seem prudent to engage difflock.

H2H

Mark

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Thanks for the help so far guys,

Fridge, mine is a 300tdi, PM on its way!

Mark, personally, I have had a wonderful introduction to this forum, and 90% of all my limited knowledge has been acquired here, from some helpful, lovely people (Fridge, I'm still digesting & working through your articles on recovery you kindly sent!!).... but I get concerned when someone asks a reasonable question and gets a snotty reply for his effort. We all had to learn somewhere, did we not? I just dont want everyone to think I'M an idiot, just because im trying to learn by asking questions.

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I can't add anything to the advice above. My own experience is that wading is to be approached with care! Please don't be put off this forum by your earlier experience. I'm always treated very well here and I am an idiot!

All the best,

Phil.

There's certainly no need to be wary, sorry if you've had a bad introduction to the forum.

Fridgefreezer is bound to send you some good articles. I found that David Bowyer's excellent "Learn With David" section on his website covers wading in detail and the necessary vehicle preparation.

link

Speaking as an amateur, it does depend on depth and seriousness of the ford. For shallow concrete based fords I would be happy with High First, and for anything approaching serious I generally am in low ratio and in second gear, and it would seem prudent to engage difflock.

H2H

Mark

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As above... please don't be put off by somewhat 'unhelpful' responses by some... Every forum has such 'members'

If you have a question then ask away.... the worst that can happen is that you get no response!

Again as above there a numerous articles about wading and it very much depends on exactly what you are driving through...

Did you fit the snorkel or did someone else do it?- Either way make sure that all of the joints in the pipework right from the snorkel to the air filter housing and indeed from the housing onwards are well sealed with something like silicon sealer- all to easy for water to get sucked in at the worst possible moment. Also check on the bottom of the air filter housing- should be a water drain valve- looks a bit like a rubber birds beak (In my world anyway!! :D ) This also needs to be sealed up properly either with silicon or indeed removed and replaced with a cap or bung to seal the hole.

Also depending on how deep you want to go you may need to replace the breather tubes on both your axles, gearbox and transfer box, to extend them to the top of your snorkel.

Oh and if the water reaches the top of the windscreen and the engine is still running then you have got it about right!!

Shrek

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Maybe it is obvious, but there is a couple of issues which hasnt been mentioned in the above advises...

First: Be very sure of the depth and surface conditions of the intended crossing. Sometimes a simple looking river kan be of a considerable depth. A snorkel-prepared landrover will easily wade through considerable deep water, but if the water gets over bonnet height you will need to drive carefully, as you have no way of knowing the surface conditions ahead. Only a little hole could make the vehicle drop another 50cm by which time the snorkel top will be really close to the water level!

For serious crossings it is best to have made some kind of emergency planning before entering the water. Assess the surroundings and find out exactly where the winch rope can be attached if need should arise. If a vehicle gets bogged down in running water it will sink pretty fast. The current of the stream erodes the sand or mud the vehicle rests on, bringe the vehicle deeper into the ground. The vibrations from the engine can actually help this process.

If the water level is higher than the exhaust manifold water will enter the engine though the exhaust system if the engine cuts out while under water. Therefor the engine must be kept running at all times if you do deep wading... If nessescary slip the clutch, but keep the engine running....

After the wading it is wise to check all oils. If oil gets contaminated with water it looses its lubricating abilities. Therefore the oil should be changed as soon as possible if the oil shows any sign of water contamination. This goes for diffs, engine, gearbox, transferbox, swirvelhousings and wheel bearings...

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Well Mr unhelpful just read this post... no comments from him- helpful or otherwise? Maybe he thinks this question is Stupid as well?

Ok I think the point has been well and truly made, let's keep it on topic. Neither Ralph or I want to come in here in the morning and find a load of toys the floor :D

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Hi Martin,

In response to getting flamed more than wading.

I think we have all answered in a sharper tone than we had intended at some point however the good news is that you can take it back and make amends if you offend someone.

There is always someone who will be contrite to whatever you say :rolleyes: but hey thats life :) .

However the one thing I have found on this forum is none of the "knowledgefull" people will make you look stupid (a bit of ragging yes, but well meant :D ).

Who can't look back in time and not cringe at some of the questions we have asked or statements we have made? :D

We all travel the path of the Land Rover in our own time and way......ommmmmmm

Cheers

G

PS Will that coffee stay warm while I travel down from Scotland? :)

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Second gear low is a good bet. Enables you to keep the revs up yet maintain steady progress.

The bow wave isn't so critical for you if you've got a snorkel (it is primarily a way of keeping the water away from the intake aft of the wheel arch) but it is good practice.

As above: main thing is to be sure of your footing and not to tackle anything too fast. If you stall, re-start immediately. Water will slowly start to work up the exhaust and can pass the cats and get into the engine. You've a bit of time before that happens but a good idea to get it running ASAP.

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Always be very wary of crossing flowing water.

Many people have little idea of just how powerful it can be, cars don't usually do very well as boats and if you get stuck & have to get out into the water you may find yourself unable to keep your footing.

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if its deep looking stuff I'd suggest you walk it, getting a bit wet is a minor worry compared to expensive silences followed by that disturbing "neck deep" feeling.

or you could try... doors open one latch, High 2 or 3rd, flat out on the rev limiter laughing like a loon

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hmmmm so even after my"stupid" question on intercooling i'm not thought of as an idiot! (memo to self must try harder) glad the question on wading came up though, thought i approached in a sensible manner but obviously the "flat in high second method" is not recommended :lol::P ... must read davids links

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Oh yeah, always check your oils and filters after wading - water gets everywhere (Jez can tell you about "sealed" fuel filler caps :lol: ) and despite having a snorkel this was my air filter base after a session of splashing about:

post-21-1195755340_thumb.jpg

Luckily I have an ITG foam filter I put in for off-roading which means it's less likely to disintegrate. I still run paper filters the rest of the time 'cos I don't really trust the dirt capturing abilities of a bit of sponge.

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The first question with wading is Do I really NEED to do this, isnt there anoither route?

I agree with the walking it first, and have a rope tied on you especially if its fast moving,

If its not flowing and the bottoms a bit soft then keeping the doors shut for floatation can be advantageous, if its fast flowing then open the doors to let the vehicle get purchase on the bed .

try to avoid having to change gear, both for loosing momentum, and also letting water get in between the clutch plate and flywheel. and may your god go with you HTSH

JMHO

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Hi all,

Bit wary about posting this after reading a thread earlier re. intercoolers, and the question asker being called, quite unfairly, an idiot.

I have actually driven through fairly deep water before, a couple of feet....and it turns out its my favourite thing I have done since owning my first Land Rover.

However, I dont REALLY know what gear I ought to be using whenever I do find something to drive through. I have a snorkel, but dont plan on going through owt as deep as making it absolutely necessary.

I went through a ford that was quite swollen after all those rains and floods earlier this year, and I could feel the resistance against the vehicle, but was slightly alarmed and uneasy, as it felt substantially different to when it was about a foot lower.

I know about bow waves (sort of) but is there a definitive gear to use for river crossings? Am I right in thinking that I dont have to use Low ratio? What can go wrong if I were to stall?

Any advice greatly received.

Apologies in advance if its a silly question and you want to call me an idiot! (you know who you are, Mr Snotty answer - see intercooler question in International forum!)

Martin

Always enter the water slowly. Increase speed so that the bow wave is just ahead of the vehicle. I always use low box and centre diff lock for anything other than puddles.

If the water is frozen slowly enter the ice and break with your tyres drive slowly backwards and forwards to get the water under the ice to form a wave. With luck the pressure of water will break the ice into small particles. Go into ice without breaking the surface and you could (most likely will) get a lump of ice through the radiator which is very embarrassing :D

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