ihana Posted November 11, 2005 Share Posted November 11, 2005 Morning all, Some advice needed.... The 130 special I got hold of this summer originally had a quaife auto locking diff but the previous owner had it removed as he broke a rear halfshaft climbing a steep off-road type hill. He said that the halfshafts were both quite twisted and reckoned it was due to the quaife. Now its back on its original salisbury diff and some new halfshafts but he gave me the quaife anyway. I fancy a locking diff but shall I use this one? I thought maybe putting in stronger halfshafts would solve the problem. Fully tanked up the 130 is easy weighing 3.5 tons so in theory there could be a lot of stress going through one halfshaft. Shall I - 1. Not do anything 2. Re fit the quaife and fit stronger shafts 3. Sell the quaife and buy an ARB. (and probably stronger shafts anyway) any help appreciated! cheers, tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted November 11, 2005 Share Posted November 11, 2005 The choice of Quaife or ARB is purely personal and you will get opinions both ways on the topic. Personally, I have an ARB because I wanted a fully locking diff and wanted control over when it was in or out. (locked or unlocked). If you want fit and forget with no compressor or wiring to worry about then the quaife may be a better choice. If you're an overlander / green laner rather than a winch challenge type off roader then the quaife is probably the better choice, particularly as you have it already so the ££££ side of things is less painful! Uprated half shafts are probably a good idea with the weight of a 130. Confused? You will be once you've had a dozen different recommendations on here!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lara Posted November 11, 2005 Share Posted November 11, 2005 Totaly agree with BishBosh, I run Quaife diffs but would not say they are any bestter or worse than anything else, Just different horse for different course. I would fit them if I were in your boots. Lara. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted November 11, 2005 Share Posted November 11, 2005 As usual young Bish is right. Howvere I would add: The Quaife didn't twist the shafts, the driving style did. The Quaife is worth keeping for either: Sticking in the back axle (with standard shafts and sensible driving or HD shafts and driving like Will Warne) Bish is right me not thinking...Forget the front diff! If you are thinking of going down the road of purchasing an ARB have a look at other options on the market and what you actually get for your money. Take a peek at KAM who do a superb kit for the Salisbury that does include ALL the bits you need in the price. Have a peek at OX and Detroit as well - fit and forget is always easier (not always better). I would stick with Quaife and standard Drive shafts and chuck a TrueTrac in the front - many others would go ARB. By the way if you don't run with weight over the back axles then ballast a bit to stop the rear 'skipping' this will stop'snatch' on the rear axle and let the shafts live longer! Looking at your website you obviously run with loads of weight in the back! However the 130 has a habit of 'cocking a wheel' on axle twisters as such it is more subjetc to 'snatch' than shorter wheelbase LR's. What tyres do you run? What rear springs do you run? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted November 11, 2005 Share Posted November 11, 2005 Can you fit a Salisbury diff in the front Luvvers.....? Do 130's have Salisbury fronts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihana Posted November 11, 2005 Author Share Posted November 11, 2005 Thanks for the advice! Weight over the back axle is definitely not lacking... The previous owner had some funny ideas about things so I probably would not trust his driving style either. I read that longer wheelbase vehicles work better with these types of diff too. Next question is - how do I re-fit it? I presume it'll just be the same as fitting a standard diff? tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lara Posted November 11, 2005 Share Posted November 11, 2005 Fitting instructions, 1. Take old one out. 2. Fit new one 3. Its realy as easy as that 2a. As long as you have the correct bearings, Quaife diff has metric bearing diameters and Landy housing is Imperial, Phone Devon 4x4 and they will send you the correct bearings next day delivery for next to nothing, great guys. (and girls) Lara. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Baldwin Posted November 11, 2005 Share Posted November 11, 2005 Fitting instructions,1. Take old one out. 2. Fit new one 3. Its realy as easy as that Lara. If only Salisbury's were that simple. Unless you've got or you know someone who has the correct tools to spread the diff casing apart far enough, removing and refitting diff into Salisbury (DANA) is anything but easy. Many - Devon 4x4 included - drop the axle off the vehicle to make it easier to work on and even specialists will tell you this makes them a 'b'stard to set up. If you don't fancy it yourself, any good repairer, be it LR or Jeep shop should be able to help you. FWIW. For the kind of stuff you're doing and the places you're going, I'd stick with the Quaife and shove in a set of strenghened shafts (MD or GBR) and be done with it. Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihana Posted November 11, 2005 Author Share Posted November 11, 2005 I think the quaife has bearings in it already - will have to look at it tonight, and the landy workshop manual too! FWIW. For the kind of stuff you're doing and the places you're going, I'd stick with the Quaife and shove in a set of strenghened shafts (MD or GBR) and be done with it.Kev What does MD/GBR mean? cheers, tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted November 11, 2005 Share Posted November 11, 2005 I think the quaife has bearings in it already - will have to look at it tonight, and the landy workshopmanual too! What does MD/GBR mean? cheers, tom Md - maxidrive GBR Great Basin Rovers - ask for Bill, he's a top bloke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D9OSV Posted November 11, 2005 Share Posted November 11, 2005 One thing everyone forgot...... Arb is a fully locking differental. The quaife unit is a torque biais differental. Basiclly if you dangle a wheel in the air using arbs, you just engage adn drive on.... If howevr you dangle a wheel in air using a Quaife unit it will spin unless you use a bit of brake to confuse the diff into thinking it needs to transfer traction. This is only a basic expanation, so quit with the big posts (Before i get bombarded) But if you are on loose ground the quaife will send balanced power to wheels giving better traction and still allowing clean steerage. But if you use an arb on loose ground it acts as a normal diff until locked, and then when locked becomes lots of fun and steerage is effected. hope this helps with your desicion and has not confused you more All the best Jim Ps: For what your doing any hardned shaft is a bonus. kam are cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted November 11, 2005 Share Posted November 11, 2005 I have a challange truck with twin ARB's and a racer with a Quaife LSD I have snaped a drive shaft with the quaife but I was racing and sufering from red mist when it shired I have twisted the HD Kam shaftes but I was pushing the car very hard.(power slides) Jim is right you need to drive acording to the diff you have. If you have the Quaife it will last alot longer than most auto diffs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihana Posted November 11, 2005 Author Share Posted November 11, 2005 If howevr you dangle a wheel in air using a Quaife unit it will spin unless you use a bit of brake to confuse the diff into thinking it needs to transfer traction. Most of the stuff that I encounter is on existing trails with deep ruts or slippery slopes. If I'm in a deep rut and the diff is dragging a bit would the quaife get me further? in a situation like this ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D9OSV Posted November 11, 2005 Share Posted November 11, 2005 Most of the stuff that I encounter is on existing trails with deep ruts or slippery slopes. If I'm in a deeprut and the diff is dragging a bit would the quaife get me further? in a situation like this ??? No for that you require helicoptor support If your diffs dragging it don't make a damns worth of difference what you use. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihana Posted November 11, 2005 Author Share Posted November 11, 2005 No for that you require helicoptor support If your diffs dragging it don't make a damns worth of difference what you use. Jim the thing is, thats what 90% of my real world stucks are caused by mebbe portals would help? I suppose the best benefit of the quaife would be to enable me to climb steep slopes that have poor traction, still better than a normal diff, innit... tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest diesel_jim Posted November 11, 2005 Share Posted November 11, 2005 Can you fit a Salisbury diff in the front Luvvers.....?Do 130's have Salisbury fronts? You can fit a salisbury in the front... if you have a salisbury front axle. they're not too common, although totally get-able. most factory 130's hve standard rover front axles. only really HD applications had them, like military orders and stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cols110 Posted November 11, 2005 Share Posted November 11, 2005 If the Quaife is like a Detroit and it is just the centre you replace, the job is a piece of tiddle to do in a Salisbury, I have fitted and removed the detroit locker in mine without any drama at all. I removed it last week and refitted the origional open hemisphere centre last week in just over 2 hours. All you have to do is just up the arse end, drain the oil, pop out your 1/2 shafts enough to clear the centre, remove the back cover plate, undo the 2 bolts on the 2 caps which hold the carrier, then the centre will come out, as you remove it you just rotate it a bit so as the crown wheel comes out of the pinion, then when it is on the ground you undo the 8 bolts to split the carrier, remove the open hemispere, drop in your Quaife, re-fit your carrier bolts with locktite, torque to 70ft/lt, re-fitt the centre into the housing, re-fit the 2 caps and bolts with locktite, the progressively torque the cap bolts up to 105 ft/lb, re-fit 1/2 shafts, back cover plate and oil and your away, you don`t even need to remove the prop shaft. The proper way is to use a spreader, but I know of quite a few people who have done this without needing to spread the housing. You don`t disturb the bearings or crown wheel, so there is no need to re-set up the diff. I have a carrier in the garage with my detroit in it, I can send you a few photos if you want of just how easy it is to remove the centre. The only reason I removed it was because our 110 is on the market and I am going to re-fit the detroit into our next 110. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 11, 2005 Share Posted November 11, 2005 Can you fit a Salisbury diff in the front Luvvers.....?Do 130's have Salisbury fronts? IIRC all 127/130 use a bog standard 90/110 Rover type front axle, some older military 110 V8's had Salisbury front/rear axles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted November 11, 2005 Share Posted November 11, 2005 When Jon (Chelsea Tractor) fitted the ARB into the salisbury axle on (then) his hybrid he used a large Carver clamp to spread the axle. Simply clamped between top and bottom to spread the bearings and release the diff. I suspect Cols110 is running insufficient bearing pre-load if no spreading was needed. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cols110 Posted November 11, 2005 Share Posted November 11, 2005 I suspect Cols110 is running insufficient bearing pre-load if no spreading was needed.Chris Maybe, but it works fine, no whines etc, you would`nt know the difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted November 11, 2005 Share Posted November 11, 2005 What more could you ask. I spent ages setting mine up - twice - and it whines like a 84574rd! Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted November 11, 2005 Share Posted November 11, 2005 The previous owner of my truck cab fitted a Quaiffe. I use the veh for challenge events and its superb, some times dabbing the brakes needed to gain traction as above but no half shaft probelms (touching wood) as yet. highly recommended Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cols110 Posted November 11, 2005 Share Posted November 11, 2005 What more could you ask. I spent ages setting mine up - twice - and it whines like a 84574rd!Chris Some people have all the luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90 Posted November 11, 2005 Share Posted November 11, 2005 mebbe portals would help? tom Now you're talking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve H Posted November 12, 2005 Share Posted November 12, 2005 Sticking in the back axle (with standard shafts and sensible driving or HD shafts and driving like Will Warne)Bish is right me not thinking...Forget the front diff! I would stick with Quaife and standard Drive shafts and chuck a TrueTrac in the front - HH- in one part of your reply to Tom you say not to use a Quaife in the front, then later you say to use a Truetrac in the front. I know sweet FA about these diffs but I've always thought that the Quaife & Truetrac as Torque biasing diffs would do much the same job. I know Truetracs are generally cheaper then Quaifes, I'd be interested to know how they differ & why one would be OK up front & one not. I have heard of plenty of people using Truetracs in front & in a LRO(?) some years ago a farmer in Zambia using Quaifes front & back. Now I'm confused Cheers, Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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