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Adjustable ride height


muzaz

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I've got this little problem with my series3 landrover... scrapes its roof while driving it down the ramp to the garage :( So I was wondering if theres some way of making it go lower while going up and down the ramp, and higher while its out... Now I've already been given a lot of ideas on what to do...like putting a couple of cement bags at the rear, fitting smaller tyres, deflating the tyres, leaving it outside, levelling the ramp, etc etc

What I'd like to know is if theres some thing like a shock or actuator which could vary the height without me needing to get out of the vehicle, ie at the push of a button!

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This is what air suspension is good at. Attach a small winch with its cable between the axle and the chassis? At the push of a button the chassis will be pulled down to the axle in a similar way to lifting axles on trucks with an air spring. You can probably get a small electric winch and some pulleys and rig up something that will compress the axle springs. Maybe just compressing one axle set will be enough.

I don't think there is an easy or simple way to do it. It will depend on your budget and the amount of effort you want to put into it. Can you remove the problem? Is the head room and the ground yours to adjust at all?

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I don't think there is an easy or simple way to do it. It will depend on your budget and the amount of effort you want to put into it. Can you remove the problem? Is the head room and the ground yours to adjust at all?

Thats the main problem, I cannot take away from the ramp, already did, but cant go any deeper as below theres another garage...dont want to go through.

Was thinking maybe I can lower the top part of the hardtop, its not that its touching by much, If I could lower it by an inch it would be fine.

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If it is only an inch then how about removing the ribs from the hard top. The strength will need to be replaced with ribs on the inside though.

I had a SWB truck cab that I took into a multistory carpark with no problems but couldn't get out of as the exit ramp head room was 3" too low. I ended up having to beat the roof almost flat to get out again.

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well, I could remove them and put something inside, just hope it can be done without butchering the roof tho! are they spotwelded or riveted? I will be rebuilding it soonish so I can include this with the works to be done... but its a bit sad knowing I cant fix bigger tyres or lifting the vehicle bec of a silly ramp!! the garage is quite high at about 13ft... thats a pity! :(

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what on earth is that?! :blink:

I would only need the orange actuator next to the shock I guess no? But I think it may get slightly complicated... :unsure:

Thought about going soft top but isnt the height the same as the hard top?

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I'd go with the small electric winch option - US rock crawlers use them on the front axle to limit travel when climbing (stops the front axle bouncing and flipping the truck over backwards). You could use it on the back axle.

An ATV winch would be plenty as you are only looking to compress your springs, not drag the truck through the mire.

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Hydraulic rams would do fine along the lines of the

However there is a cost element to that and you would then want a high pressure pumps and flexible lines and a remote control and then you can have your Landy dancing in the street.

Removing the ribs is just labour, they are spot rivited on with millions of spots. It would just be a case of cutting off and sanding flat. Then you can add reinforcement on the inside either with welding or with pop rivits. However, you will have to make sure it doesn't leak.

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Hmmm... thats sort of what I need, it goes up and down nicely, but as you said God knows how much it would cost and how to do it! Maybe Amber could help me out with her airbags?! :blush:

Removing the ribs sounds the easiest way, shouldnt be a problem to install the ribs from inside, I can use solid rivets, that will make the top waterproof enough...

The other option sounds interesting too, I winch would be useful and I can use it to lower the vehicle as well, just need to think how to set up the thing!

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To fit the winch you will need to find a suitable location for it in the chassis or in the load bed. The chassis would be out of the way but it will need some sort of cover to protect it from road dirt. It needs to be above the middle of the axle though. On the axle you can U bolt a plate with an eyelet in it or fit a loop of webbing strap around the axle. The winch hook will go to the eyelet or the webbing and when you power the winch it will pull the chassis to the axle. If the winch is too small then fit a pulley to the axle to halve the load on the winch. If you use webbing then form a noose and tighten it to the axle so that it doesn't hang loose and catch on stuff.

Alternatively to could mount the winch over one end of the axle and run the cable down to a pulley attached near the bump stop, then across to another pulley attached to the other bump stop and then back up to the chassis. The winch will then pull evenly down on the whole axle.

The hydraulics used on true Lo-riders tend to be 10,000psi aircraft quality stuff from what I have heard. Some now use air as it is easier and gives a better ride. Hydraulics allows them to make

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will think about it, but would prefer having the winch in its normal place, ie at the front...then guide the wire rope to the axles to compress the springs... will think about it while sleeping... now off to bed! :closedeyes:

btw, those winches mentioned, ATV are they good ones? I mean are they worth considering... on ebay they are priced like 200$ for a 4500lb winch, not a bad price I think.

Thanks for all the help...any more ideas are welcome

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Depending on what skills you have, you could go down the route of lowering the profile of the roof. Daan on this forum has done this, and has been able to maintain the shape of the roof and you have to look twice to notice it.

Jon

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Change garage!! :ph34r:

Grem

Not an option, its connected to my house! and obviously dont have spare money to buy another!

Think I'll go for lowering the roof, like the way you did it Daan, Cant see all the pics for some reason tho <_< Can only see the las pic, the others are small boxes with a red cross...

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Well its not that it going to be garaged that often, I mean when I finish rebuilding it ( well havent even started yet...sounds like a vapour thingy here) it will have to make way for my car...but I still prefer it going down without any hassle.

what about ATV winches any plus or minus reviews about them, I'm a bit tempted!

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Little ATV type winches are fine. They are just engineered for a much lower pull then Land Rover folk are used to.

A 50mm ratchet strap fed through the rear floor would have the same effect without so much of the cost but you will need elbow grease rather then a push of a button.

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I've got this same problem. I tried the ratchet strap approach with a piece of steel over the chassis rails and a strap around the axle. Ok, I need to drop 4" but it was quite uniquely scary putting that much energy into a strap and then trying to drive the car. I only strapped the rear axle because I figured if I "slammed" (wikkid) the whole car and drove up the lip into the garage, one strap might overload in the mini-crossaxle and unleash its mighty power into the up'n'over door as the LR wedges solid in the gap, probably with the two doors held shut in the narrow opening.

Afterwards, the process of releasing said energy when I wanted to drive it again was quick and violent enough to persuade me that tyre deflation was the future and I bought an Aldi compressor. Job done, goes in in 5 mins (tiny stone screwed in under the valve cap, refit and "SSSSSSS", measure overall height and wait) and reinflation is even quicker.

Next step is to invest in two tiny stones to deflate both tyres at once... :) but of course I've just got settled so the landlord's selling the house and I'm moving again :(

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There isn't really a good way to do it to be honest. Tyres is the safest as long as you pump back up before driving off.

I suppose using a 2 ton hydraulic puller, as used for body work repairs, might be a safer bet. There are 5 ton versions too in case you want to find other uses for it. You would need the pump, 4 ton or 10 ton, as well but you could hook it between the chassis and axle and then pump it closed. The release valve on the pump will allow a controlled release.

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ATV winches from Winch Solutions are pretty good value. I have one on my quad and one in the back of my van.

I've seen exactly this achieved with a small 2500Lb winch against the bulkhead of a 90 with a hole in the floor for the cable to pass through. The owner had a length of box section which he slid underneath the axles, hooked the winch on to a loop on the middle of the box section then pulled the whole truck down to fit in the garage. He was considering using it to get in & out of car-parks too. Very quick and easy to use.

Si

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