tedsmart Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 Hi, This weekend I intend to change the springs & shocks on the 110, the reason being they have never been changed (to my knowledge) I get a fair bit of roll when cornering especially when loaded up with all the camping gear, the back have been done so I'm putting the roll down to the front springs! What do you think about the condition of these: I think they are worn? But to be honest I haven't got anything to compare them to! What do the experts think? Cheers Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars L Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 Expert? Me? No, but they look perfectly allright for being standard springs. I had the same thoughts as you some years ago, so I bought a new set of springs. The result was exactly the same as before. After having put on a winch and bumper, I changed to HD springs which totally transformed the driving, especially on bad roads. Much better and exact steering was the immediate result without the springs being too stiff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Chua Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 they don't look standard to me. i don't think the original 110 springs are progressive springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 They don't look like progressive springs to me, they look like totally f***ed standard springs. If that's the case then yes change them out. If they haven't been changed from new expect to have fun getting nuts of shocks etc and for shock turrets and retainers to fall apart when you take them off. So in preparation it pays to get new shocks, new turrets and new retaining rings before you start. You may find your axle spring mounts are not in good shape too, but you may be ok. Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars L Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 If so, new springs from Paddock are f****d from the very start. Well, there might be different springs on different Land Rovers, mine is an ex-MoD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headhunter Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 Go for OME replacements which you will be able to pick up locally. I have their 500kg rated on the rear of my 110 plus their standard shocks. A good ride even when empty (c2600kg) and no roll of any concern even when fully laden. Same setup on the front but not so heavy duty rating but enough for a substantial winch. Been on for 3 years and very pleased. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars L Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 What he said. I have OME 761 driver's up front and 755 at the rear together with OME dampers. Been on for several years and very pleased. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 That pic shows a spring thats 'coil-bound'. Its either the wrong spring for the vehicle or it is utterly shagged..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diff Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 I beg to differ with most of you, that is a perfectly normal original front 110 spring. They ARE progressive and they DO close up the lower coils at ride height. NRC 8044 on one side with 2 white stripes, NRC 8045 on the other with 2 yellow stripes. Genuine springs are very good and last a long time, They are only knackered if the clearance between the bumpstop and axle has significantly reduced over standard. Can't remember what the standard bumpstop gap is off the top of my head, but I think it is between 50 and 75mm. If you buy standard replacements from a cheap supplier rather than genuine, you can expect the front of the vehicle to be lower than on your original springs after about 6 months! Regards, Diff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 I know the lower coils close up at ride height but there not supposed to be jammed hard together? Otherwise those particular coils are doing nothing at all.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat_J Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 My 90 leans lots round corners and I've been considering whether its worth changing the springs and shocks. I've also been wondering if a lift kit is worth it while I'm at it. What do we think of these: http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DEFENDER/S...o_WA159806.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diff Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 I know the lower coils close up at ride height but there not supposed to be jammed hard together? Otherwise those particular coils are doing nothing at all.... Yes, they do go 'coil bound' and is normal for this type. The idea is that the lower rate coils operate when the vehicle is articulating, not in bump. This allows the vehicle to have a relatively stiff suspension at sensible ride height, but still be able to articulate well. I agree, most progressive 'car' springs are not designed to go coil bound at ride height/weight, but these are are Land Rover springs, designed for a different purpose. Regards, Diff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 Yes, they do go 'coil bound' and is normal for this type. The idea is that the lower rate coils operate when the vehicle is articulating, not in bump. This allows the vehicle to have a relatively stiff suspension at sensible ride height, but still be able to articulate well.I agree, most progressive 'car' springs are not designed to go coil bound at ride height/weight, but these are are Land Rover springs, designed for a different purpose. Regards, Diff Indeed, well balanced progressive springs can be very usefull for an offroader. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 Hi, This weekend I intend to change the springs & shocks on the 110, the reason being they have never been changed (to my knowledge) I get a fair bit of roll when cornering especially when loaded up with all the camping gear, the back have been done so I'm putting the roll down to the front springs! What do you think about the condition of these: I think they are worn? But to be honest I haven't got anything to compare them to! What do the experts think? Cheers Ted Compared to mine (new and original) they look worn out. The upper coils don´t touch each other that much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsgetdirty Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 ive just put a 2inch heavy duty lift on which has actualy given me 3 to 4 inches of lift somehow,but the ride is stunning i really recomend it,handles well and it doesnt bang over the bumps..for 200quid you cant go wrong,im using britpart and pro comp,just be warned the fronts are an absolute pig,grind the nuts on the top and either use stilsons or drill out the nut on the bottom,i heated the lower nut and then drilled a small whole then a large right through and the nut came off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trt1617 Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 ive just put a 2inch heavy duty lift on which has actualy given me 3 to 4 inches of lift somehow,but the ride is stunning i really recomend it,handles well and it doesnt bang over the bumps..for 200quid you cant go wrong,im using britpart and pro comp,just be warned the fronts are an absolute pig,grind the nuts on the top and either use stilsons or drill out the nut on the bottom,i heated the lower nut and then drilled a small whole then a large right through and the nut came off I know what you mean mate ^^^^^^ i seem to have had the same type of kit using brit part and pro comp and got more lift than it said on the tin and as you say handles well on road and off to tell ya the truth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 First thing..... Measure the height of each spring and post here. Do you want the front higher than it is now? Those are normal 110 springs, http://members.shaw.ca/red90/NRC8044_5.html and look normal. If you want a bit of lift, fit regular 90 rear springs to the front. They are the "normal" 110 HD front springs. One assumes you can get some for free. If you don't like free, then there are many choices for aftermarket, but it depends if you want any lift or not and you current weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest diesel_jim Posted June 6, 2008 Share Posted June 6, 2008 FWIW, i was down at Dunsfold LR yesterday picking up some brand new take off 110 rear springs and shocks i'd won on ebay (the puprple striped HD springs). chap said to me "how many do you want? we've got a whole pallet load!" so if you want some cheap new rear ones, genuine parts, that could be the place to head to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars L Posted June 6, 2008 Share Posted June 6, 2008 I strongly think that it would be better to buy new ones in Brisbane, OZ instead of shipping free springs from the UK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted June 6, 2008 Share Posted June 6, 2008 First thing..... Measure the height of each spring and post here. Do you want the front higher than it is now?<snip> and bump stop measurements when parked on a level bit of concrete while you are at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Chua Posted June 6, 2008 Share Posted June 6, 2008 something to ponder about when replacing your springs, is the final ride height. 1. do you have a winch / bull bar on the front? these fellas are really heavy stuff and you don't want you truck looking like it has tired springs even after changing them. besides a truck with the back end sticking up too much is not my cuppa tea. 2. do you have to get the truck into a gararge? or do you visit a lot of multi story car parks? i've scrapped my roof far too many times even when the height limit says so otherwise. 3. higher, might not always mean better as no doubt you can fit taller tyres, but bear in mind you shift the CG of the vehicle, you need custom props, trailing and radius arms on anything more than a 2" lift and even with that, your axle case will still scrape as they aren't that high up then they were initially unless you decide to junk them for portal axles too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedsmart Posted June 7, 2008 Author Share Posted June 7, 2008 and bump stop measurements when parked on a level bit of concrete while you are at it. Yeah sorry! The 110 isn't on flat concrete at the moment but on fairly level ground, and the measurements are P/side 65mm & d/side 70mm Anyone shed light on whether this is average or below standard height? Cheers Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted June 7, 2008 Share Posted June 7, 2008 That sounds normal. Can you measure the spring heights when parked on a flat surface? Also do you want the front any higher? If so, how much? Lastly do you have any non-stock weight on the front? Bumper, winch, etc.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diff Posted June 8, 2008 Share Posted June 8, 2008 Yeah sorry!The 110 isn't on flat concrete at the moment but on fairly level ground, and the measurements are P/side 65mm & d/side 70mm Anyone shed light on whether this is average or below standard height? Cheers Ted I agree with Red90, and would say those measurements are normal for standard springs. Regards, Diff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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