Steve 90 Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 As it says really, 40mm2 cable for the winch's that doesn't go green and corrode quite so quickly. Mine all look pretty horrible in about 6mths and although it doesn't seem to be a huge problem (no voltage drop accross joints under load) I just dont like it. So im looking for a roll of something better??? Possibly something Marine grade??? Anyone any ideas??? Cheers. Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discojmz Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 I would have thought that the only way to not have green cables is to not use such good copper or seal the air and moisture out of the cables somehow. not easy i wouldnt have thought Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taz90 Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 have you tried "tri rated cable" or welding cable with tinned copper cores and heatshrink with glue http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Cab...able/index.html http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/50-X-19mm-heat-shrink-glue-lined Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve 90 Posted November 22, 2008 Author Share Posted November 22, 2008 Tried heatshrinking with a squirt of glue and tried it with a squirt of RTV sealant under the heat shrink. It seems to still let moisture in when you give it a dunking and stops it drying out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Brock Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 Steve, I've shed loads of tinned copper 35mm Tri rated here if you need some ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taz90 Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 use solder lugs without the hole and some Self Amalgamating Tape around the joint between the lug and the cable sheeve then glue lined heatshrink Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciderman Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 And loads of Vasaline Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 Solder lugs and glue-lined heat shrink, which is NOT the same as squirting some glue or silicone up normal heat shrink if done properly it will form a completely everything-tight seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OilIT Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Solder lugs and glue-lined heat shrink, which is NOT the same as squirting some glue or silicone up normal heat shrink if done properly it will form a completely everything-tight seal. Might be worth seeing if you can get jelly wire - which is what BT use underground and overground. Its basically a flexible (ish) cable encased in a vaseline like jelly and then got a black outer sheath on it. Then if the cable gets damaged, the jelly keeps the wires waterproof. Im just not sure to what size/diamter and rating they make this style of cable up to - but worth having a hunt around with the big wire suppliers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Might be worth seeing if you can get jelly wire - which is what BT use underground and overground. You do know BT are not an electricity provider don't you? The cables are for carrying signals not power, to find one capable of carrying enough power for a winch it's going to be knocking on for as thick as your arm since every individual wire is insulated and bundled in 10's, then you've got to strip 100+ wires (assuming 50-100 pair cable) and have the minor issue that the bend radius on it is going to be about half a metre. The vaseline is to prevent moisture creeping along it and minimise the faults if it gets hit, the water is kept out by 9psi of compressed air on the proper sized cables, quite a clever thing really as if the cable starts to flow a lot of air you know some dolt with a JCB has knocked it. Personally I'd use coaxial, better signal-to-noise ratio for pure winch current. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landmannnn Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Personally I'd use coaxial, better signal-to-noise ratio for pure winch current. If so this would be smart connector: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OilIT Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 You do know BT are not an electricity provider don't you? Yes I do and I was suggesting it as a possible solution if your read my response properly if you could find a similar type Responses like this make this forum less interesting......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 I would think marine grade battery cable would be a good bet, designed not to corrode in salt environment so should be OK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smo Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 I would think marine grade battery cable would be a good bet, designed not to corrode in salt environment so should be OK Tis where my money would go - Merlin http://www.merlinequipment.com/ would be the best bet as Matthew is a member on here.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomcat404 Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Boys and girls, I do have some 65mm2 super braided copper winch cable available? used for 11KV outside in all weather so perfect for what we do I use it for my winches with crimped lugs and heat shrinked ends, if anybody is interested send me a pm for prices, its not that cheap but you won't have to buy any for the future . I can make them to any length, crimped up and heat shrinked. Covering is black with red or black ends. I will post a picture later if poss..... any interest? nath forgot to add the o/d for the cable is approx 20mm, it really is the dogs Bo++ocks for winches! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headhunter Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Tis where my money would go - Merlin http://www.merlinequipment.com/ would be the best bet as Matthew is a member on here.... Matthew has left Merlin, he's now importing fast speedboats. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 How many amps are you guys pulling!? I'm no expert, but do cables really have to be *that* hefty? Although I suppose it can't hurt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Brock Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Here we go again......for gawd's sake stick this somewhere Tony........took me ages to find when I posted it and again......... Bish....from another post I did Current carrying capacity of cable 25 mm - 183 Amps 35 mm - 226 Amps 50 mm - 274 Amps 70 mm - 351 Amps Roughly ..... for 90 oC Tri Rated cables designed to run hot volts drop for those interested.... 25 mm - 1.85 Mv/A/M 35 mm - 1.35 50 mm - 0.99 70 mm - 0.68 all these are Millivolts/per amp/per metre... so for example.... 70mm @ 0.68 Mv-A-M/ 300 Amps / 4 m cable run = 0.81 Volts drop 35 mm @ 1.35 Mv-A-M/ 300 Amp /4 m cable run = 1.62 Volts drop this would be higher if your current draw is higher obviously 70mm @ 0.68Mv-A-M / 450 Amp / 4m Cable = 1.22 Volts drop 35mm @ 1.35Mv-A-M / 450 Amp / 4m Cable run = 2.43 volts drop so your 12 volt winch with nominal 12 volts could only be getting 9.57 volts at the motor....using 35mm compared to 10.78 using 70 mm obviously you will have hopefully a bit more that the nominal 12 volts available but after a fair bit of winching you may not , and its only for comparison Low volts means poor pulling (oh-er ) and poss burning your motor out faster Spec sheet HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Fair enough, can't argue with that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boothy Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Les, Here's a thought, if I am using 2 monsterous big yellow tops, in the extended seat box, paralled up, to a pair of 250amp (cont) cut of switches again paralled up, with the shortest run possible to an Albright (heavy duty) solonoid, mounted as near as possible to my 8274 fitted with a Warn 6XP motor, both front and rear the winches the same, all properly crimped in Tomcats 65mm 2 braided cable, which is a lovely cable, using a hypress (proper tool), and all crimps sealed in lythium grease. All this to hopefully lower volt drop from cable or battery drop. Then what would you guesstimate the voltdrop is under an average load ? Taking into account this estimated voltdrop, is it really a bad thing when we run 24 volts into a 12 volt motor ?, or with this voltdrop (which could drop the 24 volts quite considerably) then should we really be using 24 volt systems anyway. I was thinking about the old ballasted coil ignition sytems which averaged cranking voltage between 6-9 volts before rising to nearly 14 volts upon running, if you follow my train of thought. I was always taught that with a DC motor (series wound?) that the voltage is proportional to the current, i.e. drop the volts = high current and visa versa, or am I taking bo****ks ?, so keep the volts up and the current low and bobs your aunt fanny, but do it visa versa and your crimps start to tarnish where they've been hot and cable gets higher resistance, amplyfing it next time. If I get chance this weekend at the Buxton & District winter challenge, I will put my RMS fluke meter on the motor and give it a hard long pull (the winch) just to see, how's that. Best guess please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Chris - you'll start an argument there, the answers to some of those questions have been the subject of some serious teddy throwing in the past. I'll certainly be interested to see the results you get. Also shame on Les for posting actual numbers. Who's for a cup of tea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Brock Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 On line calculator which does DC if it Helps http://www.nooutage.com/vdrop.htm Or use a Milemarker/Equiv... Where 1.0mm should be fine to power the solonoids Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 Matthew has left Merlin, he's now importing fast speedboats.John .....and selling excellent quality products to 4x4 owners! B) The website will be sorted soon, been having a few issues with it But I have been supplying goods for some time already. I can supply marine grade cable, all fittings and fixtures for it, but unfortunately it is not the cheapest of stuff these days! But it does last! It is also UV,chemical attack and rot proof, it will self-extinguish if it catches fire, can run at over 105 degrees C and is extremely flexible! (104mm sq cable will bend round the same radius as a small tea mug!!) Obviously forum discounts available for anyone that contacts me via pm! I look forward to helping out anyone whenever I can! Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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