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Series 11 Heated front screen


jakeybaby

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I hope you get more sense out of them than I did on the wiring:

- How much current does it draw? - Dunno mate.

- Do I wire both panes in Series or parallel? - Dunno mate.

- Do I need a timer on it (as many cars do) - Dunno mate

Still bought it as there's not many alternatives that actually give you forward visibility in a damp Series, but I have found that you'll probably need a BIG (50A) relay per pane as the inrush current is pretty big (it pops a 30A fuse).

In the absence of any sensible guidance from either Devon or Uroglas (who make them but dealing with them is like talking to fog <_< ) I would run the screen for short-ish periods to demist it and then switch off, either via a timer or just with a switch. Not to mention the fat that a Series alternator will never keep up with the current draw, especially if you've got your headlights on too.

A variation of Bull Bar Cowboy's Series/Parallel electric fan control circuit could be a nifty thing, run it at full pelt on the timer to demist quickly then drop down to half power to keep things clear with lower current draw.

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I hope you get more sense out of them than I did on the wiring:

- How much current does it draw? - Dunno mate.

- Do I wire both panes in Series or parallel? - Dunno mate.

- Do I need a timer on it (as many cars do) - Dunno mate

Still bought it as there's not many alternatives that actually give you forward visibility in a damp Series, but I have found that you'll probably need a BIG (50A) relay per pane as the inrush current is pretty big (it pops a 30A fuse).

In the absence of any sensible guidance from either Devon or Uroglas (who make them but dealing with them is like talking to fog <_< ) I would run the screen for short-ish periods to demist it and then switch off, either via a timer or just with a switch. Not to mention the fat that a Series alternator will never keep up with the current draw, especially if you've got your headlights on too.

A variation of Bull Bar Cowboy's Series/Parallel electric fan control circuit could be a nifty thing, run it at full pelt on the timer to demist quickly then drop down to half power to keep things clear with lower current draw.

Thanks for the advice, I will no doubt have problems wiring it in, wiring and alternator should be ok as i`m running a td5 engine in this one, its a special i`ve just bought off Malcolm (whitbread)

Tim

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They should be wired in parallel, as wiring in series will give a big voltage drop on the second screen and the combined resistance will be too high anyway. The thick end of 50A sounds about right until they warm up and the resistance increases, like FF said. The relay and fuse on my RRC's front screen are prety hefty (60A, I think).

If your alternator and other loads on it permit, having the screen heated all the time makes it more resistant to stones - the increased ductility of the warm glass will make it less likely to chip or crack.

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They should be wired in parallel, as wiring in series will give a big voltage drop on the second screen and the combined resistance will be too high anyway.

True, although with mine temporarily wired up in series it does demist (very slowly) and once clear stays clear with much less current draw than running at full pelt.

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The normal screens are available as duplex laminate or as a toughened single pane. The heated screens would be at least duplex, possible triplex. With luck, the elements will be in a reasonably thick vinyl laminate, with glass oneither side, which would be a strong composite.

As FF has found, wiring them in series will vastly reduce the current draw, but will also make them very slow to clear the screen, somewhat defeating the purpose. I'd fit them in parallel with a 5min timer relay to prevent excess drain on the electrical system.

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The normal screens are available as duplex laminate or as a toughened single pane. The heated screens would be at least duplex, possible triplex. With luck, the elements will be in a reasonably thick vinyl laminate, with glass oneither side, which would be a strong composite.

As FF has found, wiring them in series will vastly reduce the current draw, but will also make them very slow to clear the screen, somewhat defeating the purpose. I'd fit them in parallel with a 5min timer relay to prevent excess drain on the electrical system.

Thanks for the help lads, I`m not bad with mechanics but the electrics side is all a bit much but i will give it a go. :huh:

Tim

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  • 2 years later...

I have these fittd to mine. To my mind an essentail fitment for safety and conveniences. Should be law for anything otehr thatn a 'sunny days' series. On modern roads, I'd make a series, an MOT failure without 'em! Exteme? Maybe, but not by much. Modern conditions demand it.

Really, the best way to a clear screen and keep it clear in your condnesation ridden series.

High on the list of essential mods for a daily-driver series along with disc brakes & Defender mirrors. You gotta see where your going in thoes first few minutes for your own and others safety.

I've defender heater too which also helps a lot. But it won't demist as quick as heated screens. It can be fitted to (the existing inlet with a bit of flat ducting)

I'm running a 2.5 petrol (altenator) so have few power issues tho'

But don't listen to me, I'd ban woofter-plate too. And any of that "Croc Dundee' faker nonsense. Who are those guys kiddin'?!

Seriously tho' Fit those 2 x screns. You won't regret it.

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Why do you need to cut one down? What are you thinking of fitting it to?

BTW, check availability before getting too excited. Supply of these tends to be intermittent.

Price is immaterial, as I believe there is only one supplier, so the only choice is to buy, or not.

Cheers.

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I have these fittd to mine. To my mind an essentail fitment for safety and conveniences. Should be law for anything otehr thatn a 'sunny days' series. On modern roads, I'd make a series, an MOT failure without 'em! Exteme? Maybe, but not by much. Modern conditions demand it.

Really, the best way to a clear screen and keep it clear in your condnesation ridden series.

High on the list of essential mods for a daily-driver series along with disc brakes & Defender mirrors. You gotta see where your going in thoes first few minutes for your own and others safety.

I've defender heater too which also helps a lot. But it won't demist as quick as heated screens. It can be fitted to (the existing inlet with a bit of flat ducting)

I'm running a 2.5 petrol (altenator) so have few power issues tho'

But don't listen to me, I'd ban woofter-plate too. And any of that "Croc Dundee' faker nonsense. Who are those guys kiddin'?!

Seriously tho' Fit those 2 x screns. You won't regret it.

I have very little fogging in my 109, and the Defender heater clears it very fast. I'll just wait the 10-15 seconds it takes to clear in the rare circumstances the screen has fogged up and keep them clear when sitting in the car with the engine off by opening the window a few mm.

Heated screens are great for most drivers - I retro-fitted one to my RRC and was very pleased with it. However, about 30% of drivers suffer problems with them at night as the vertical elements cause visual illusions or distortions. My wife is one of those people, and the screen made it impossible for her to gauge rate of closure with other vehicles and develop tunnel vision at night on unlit roads, even though she has good eye health and has no problems with other cars or with the RR since we refit an standard screen. I'd advise anyone considering heated screens to try a vehicle fitted with them at night in all road conditions first before splashing out. (By the way, that 30% figure came from the windscreen fitters who replaced the screen for us - they seemed completely unsurprised when I mentioned the issue, which had seemed very unusual to me previously).

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Why do you need to cut one down? What are you thinking of fitting it to?

BTW, check availability before getting too excited. Supply of these tends to be intermittent.

Price is immaterial, as I believe there is only one supplier, so the only choice is to buy, or not.

Cheers.

Can't remember for sure but I thought that Series 1 had smaller panels?

Marc.

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Can't remember for sure but I thought that Series 1 had smaller panels?

Marc.

No, bigger panels, the cab in a series 1 is much bigger than any later series/defender. Quite a nice place to be, actually.

The lower bulkhead is the same width (ish) but the bulkhead doesn't have the styling curve at the waist, it goes straight up, and thus a bigger cabin.

You'll not get the panels to fit a series 1, unless you get them made specially. Maybe heating the frame would do????? Kidding.

G.

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I have fitted just the one pane to the drivers side on out S2A and wired via a relay at 25 Amperes. Not had to use it in anger yet but bound to soon?

We did a group purchase through the Series 2 club for around 50 sets of screens at £110 a pair a year ago direct with Uroglas :)

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  • 2 months later...

I have fitted just the one pane to the drivers side on out S2A and wired via a relay at 25 Amperes. Not had to use it in anger yet but bound to soon?

We did a group purchase through the Series 2 club for around 50 sets of screens at £110 a pair a year ago direct with Uroglas smile.gif

Which is currently running again ^_^

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