Jump to content

Just got home on a yellow taxi


GBMUD

Recommended Posts

Chris

If you don't want to wait for parts, or find that you need something quickly, Adrian (garage on corner near Tesco) will have it in stock.

He only stocks genuine LR parts, but prices are reasonable and he always have everything in :)

Good luck with it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

:( Yer as Darth said, in my two years of driving the land rover i have had the clutch slave cylinder let go, so got a flat bed home, two wheel bearings on seperate occassions so both had a flat bed home. Also had a fan belt go which i was just about to tightn at the weekend but it let go on the friday morning. it was raining and horrible so i called out the recovery company to do it as i didnt have the right spanners but did have a belt. Unfortunately i still got wet helping the bloke do it as he was making it a more complicated job than it needed to be :rolleyes:.

Im sure i have more pictures of when it is being off loaded at home each time

So so far thats twice a year i have needed recovery, mum says you can earn no claims bonus's for not calling them out, at least its her policy and not mine :lol: !

Jon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Chris

If you don't want to wait for parts, or find that you need something quickly, Adrian (garage on corner near Tesco) will have it in stock.

He only stocks genuine LR parts, but prices are reasonable and he always have everything in :)

Good luck with it

Thanks Mark. I bought a track rod end from them a couple of weeks ago. To be honest I found them a little.. odd. Rude if I was feeling less charitable. I will use them in case of emergency. I have ordered the bits I need from the main stealer at Wooton Basset.

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

slightly off topic, but someone pointed out something to me a couple of weeks ago on one of these forums. If you have the usual height garage, then get a set of old landy rims and you can drive it in on the rims (no tyres) to work on it.

A bit of a faf on I know, but if its snowing and I need to take the head off, I know what I'll be doing!

Jas

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't have any pitcures of the last time it came home on the back of a truck, but here is one from the day we pulled the IIA out of the shed it had languished in for the previous 15 years.

taxi_ride.jpg

more orange than yellow.... :)

Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Mark. I bought a track rod end from them a couple of weeks ago. To be honest I found them a little.. odd. Rude if I was feeling less charitable. I will use them in case of emergency. I have ordered the bits I need from the main stealer at Wooton Basset.

Chris

Their take on customer service can be a little different, but if you speak to Adrian he is usually nice & helpful, if a little brusque when busy.

Best option is to just wantder towards the workshops and ask for him, if you go into the office you are likely to get his old man, who is a grumpy sod!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just wanted to say 'Bad luck mate' and 'Cheers for the write up.' I've been looking for a clear guide for the 200tdi cam belt for a while now, so I can do mine when it next needs it. Looking forward to the 2nd 're-assembly' part.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The first task is to remove the front crank damper (The bottom pulley to you and I).

>>> the alternative is to put it in low gear and smack the extension bar with a rubber mallet; worked for me.

Safer and more controlled.

When the bolt is removed you are supposed to use a puller to remove the damper from the crank.

You should be VERY careful about using levers to remove it as the timing cover may become damaged (cracked).

>>>>>> Hmm.... dodgey procedure that; by putting in the bolt back in you can adapt a puller from Machine Mart to do this. I should post this in the tools/technique section. :rolleyes:

The seal in the front cover runs on the pulley. Mine is very warn and should be replaced. You can see the ring of wear.

>>>> You can use a different part of the pulley to rub on by not fully tapping home the seal: a tip I got of someone.

>>>>> Have you noticed your pulley has a chunk missing? :oIt will be out of balance. Someone will say it doesn't matter but I say it does; pulleys have balancing weights attached if required; remember they run at engine rpm.

Try to weld up the chunk or else remove the same amount from the opposite side. :)

53630.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Part 2, the putting back together bit...

First thing this morning I went out and fitted the new push rods, all 8. Here they are, the clean bits.

53650.jpg

Next the rocker shaft. Be careful when fitting the rocker shaft that the back goes down first. This is where the oil way is and it can (and did) get hung up. The correct torque figure for the bolts is 30NM, the least my proper torque wrench will do. If, like me, you have had to do this stage you will need to re-set the tappets. I forgot to take a picture but it is quite straight forward using the "rule of 9", ie. number 1 rocking, you adjust number 8, number 3 rocking you adjust number 6 etc., always adding up to 9.

53651.jpg

I had to do a lot of cleaning to find the timing mark on the cam pulley. When I did find it, it alligns with the arrow, I used sandbags make-up mirror to help see the mark and the arrow from the front as the radiator was in the way rather. The crank is in the correct position when the keyway is at 12 O'clock. I confirmed this by fishing about in the bellhousing wading plug hole with a 5mm drill bit and found the slot. The timing pump is locked by means of a drill bit too - before you fit either the pin or the belt you should loosen the three small bolts surrounding the large nut in the centre, this is for adjusting the fuel pump timing and getting it just so. The books say it is a 10mm hole but I found a 9.5mm drill bit to be a snug fit - perhaps the hole is 3/8"? See later picture for how and where is fits. With all the rotating parts in their correct position I fitted the belt and then the tensioner. Trying to fit the belt with the tensioner in position seemed to be a non starter. It is a fiddley job but persevere and you will work it out. There should be no slack between the crank pulley and the cam pulley or between the cam pulley and the fuel pump pulley.

You can see here the 9.5mm drill bit in position in the fuel pump.

53653.jpg

Here you can see the timing arrow and dot alligned for the cam timing and also the hole where the drill bit fits into the fuel pump - it passes right through the pulley, timing case and into the pump body. Rather a poor photograph I am afraid but you get the picture (pun :o )

53654.jpg

Once the belt is on and tension applied (see below) the engine must be rotated two revolutions - two revs of the crank, one revolution of the cam and pump obviously. Remember to remove any timing pins (drill bits) first!

53652.jpg

Refit the fuel pump timing pin. Check that all the marks still line up and then loosen the tensioner and re-tension to 19 NM for a new belt or 17NM for a used one. You need to use a deflection type torque wrench (see picture) or a dial type. The correct torque for the tensioner clamp bolt is 45NM.

Tighten the three bolts around the center of the fuel pump pulley. This will set the injector timing. Remove the drill bit. I like to re-set the injector timing after a couple of thousand miles just to be sure and to compensate for any stretch in the belt. This can be done easily through the small cover in the timing chest cover. The job is pretty much done now - at least the technical bit.

Setting the belt tension.

53656.jpg

Always be sure that the timing chest is well sealed when re-fitting. I use Hylomar non setting sealant or similar. You do NOT want water in here as it will cause the belt to fail in no time flat. If you are like me you can now enjoy a Mensa style test trying to work out which bolt goes in which hole in the timing chest - or you could have kept them in order in the first place! Personaly I relish the challenge.

I decided to leave the original dust seal in the front cover as it seems to be doing it's job for now and I plan to have it all apart again later to get the injector pump tested. I will make proper arangements then to repair the seal and it's land. Anyone got any details of the shim sleeves you can get for this job?

53657.jpg

That just about concludes my idiot's guide to replacing a broken cam belt in the real world, not in a spotlessly clean workshop in Sparkford. I feel sure that I must have forgotten some important fact, feel free to add anything relevant - or even to ask questionsa if my explanation is not sufficient.

I am waiting for the battery to charge now so that I can see if it starts - and to confirm that this guide is worth the paper it is not written on. Time to find some lunch I guess.

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you tested the engine for compression? just that as you have a vast amount of bent pushrods this is normally caused by the valves being shoved-back by the piston by force, thereby normally bending the heads of the valves <_<

It seems OK thanks. I have seen a lot (well, several) of Tdi belt failiours and I have yet to see one do more than superficial damage. The valves in a Tdi are vertical in the head and so hit the pistons square on. The valve stems are very hard and resistant to bending - unlike the pushrods which are made from brie... I suspect for a very good reason! FWIW, 300 Tdis apparently have deliberatly weak rockers so that they break in such circumstances. Anyway, it runs now and I am off to Sussex in it in a couple of hours, I will report back if there are further problems.

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It seems OK thanks. I have seen a lot (well, several) of Tdi belt failiours and I have yet to see one do more than superficial damage. The valves in a Tdi are vertical in the head and so hit the pistons square on. The valve stems are very hard and resistant to bending - unlike the pushrods which are made from brie... I suspect for a very good reason! FWIW, 300 Tdis apparently have deliberatly weak rockers so that they break in such circumstances. Anyway, it runs now and I am off to Sussex in it in a couple of hours, I will report back if there are further problems.

Chris

Fingers crossed then that all is well :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I neither agree nor disagree :rolleyes: but I know on my v8 pulley there is a balance wieght, similar to that on car tyres bashed on with metal tabs.

If you need some home made balance weights you could cut a notch in a bit of 15mm copper pipe and hammer it on to the edge of the pulley :ph34r:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy