LittleBlue88 Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 Very nice Les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 well funy welder labels, sounds lyk something i would do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calle-fas Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 As usual, I'm truly impressed with your fabrication and welding skills Les. Now I'm going a bit O/T. Now I don't thing that this is the case for you, but when it comes to drilling in general, and redrilling in particual, I always become a bit unsure about getting it right. Especially when it comes to adjusting things, like in this case. How do you others feel about this? Any good hints to think about when drilling? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 Looks good Les. What paint did you use on that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 25, 2009 Author Share Posted May 25, 2009 Red primer, then grey primer (to make sure I didn't miss a bit on the second coat), then high temp engine enamel (2-coats). Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 Hi Les, How did it go? Have you retried the Diff and halfshafts yet? Apparently the key is to see if the halfshafts bind? I spoke to Tomcat Motorsport about the way to do what you have done. They had two comments, the 1st was to use a jig (well done there) the second was that with good welding you won't need a sleeve as well. It won't matter now that you have finished. So the big question, does it all fit now? I hope so as you have made a really great job of the work. Marc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 25, 2009 Author Share Posted May 25, 2009 Still waiting on getting the right bearings for the diff assembly. Pinion is done, but that's all at present, so I can't do the test Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted May 26, 2009 Share Posted May 26, 2009 Hi Les,Having investigated the axle ends a bit, I was told that LR use some really complicated sounding bit of kit to friction weld the ends onto the axle tube. Its a shame that they did not go the way that other (US) manufactures did which is to slide the axle end over the tube then weld. This way it is easy to change an end to alter the angle or narraow the axle. Marc. From the start of the thread, tummy grumbles at the thought of cut-welding the axle! All i can foresee is an axle torn to peices on a day when there is a serious competetion!! After all we tell ourselves to use the time we need.. No rush and don't let time be the factor hindring you from doing the task well!! "Contemplation is the haste of time" .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicks90 Posted May 26, 2009 Share Posted May 26, 2009 i can understand why you have cut and rewelded the tube to get the swivel castor angle right.... but your diff nose will still be pointing in the wrong direction wont it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted May 26, 2009 Share Posted May 26, 2009 Upon second thought.. This will stand the test of time, even the planet!! Neat!! Cleverly welded!!! B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted May 26, 2009 Share Posted May 26, 2009 i can understand why you have cut and rewelded the tube to get the swivel castor angle right.... but your diff nose will still be pointing in the wrong direction wont it? I must admit that I have the same concern unless I have missed something. Marc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 26, 2009 Author Share Posted May 26, 2009 The diff nose is correct - same as a series. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted May 26, 2009 Share Posted May 26, 2009 didnt you say earlier in the thread that you set the diff nose angle with the axle upside down and thats what caused this problem? I dont get how simply turning the swivel flange will have cured the problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 26, 2009 Author Share Posted May 26, 2009 The flanges are positioned with the diff nose in the right position. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 26, 2009 Share Posted May 26, 2009 didnt you say earlier in the thread that you set the diff nose angle with the axle upside down and thats what caused this problem?I dont get how simply turning the swivel flange will have cured the problem? use a bit of common sense, the axle was turned to be the right way up & jigged as it would be if fitted to the parent vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 26, 2009 Author Share Posted May 26, 2009 Correct (phew) The axle is positioned as it would be when fitted to the vehicle, so the right way up and the diff nose set, then the flanges cut off, set in the right position, then welded back on Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted May 26, 2009 Share Posted May 26, 2009 Nice work Les! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicks90 Posted May 27, 2009 Share Posted May 27, 2009 Correct (phew) The axle is positioned as it would be when fitted to the vehicle, so the right way up and the diff nose set, then the flanges cut off, set in the right position, then welded back on Les. but wont the spring seats now be wrong? sorry i havent got ms paint so i'll try and describe... when you originally set it all up and welded on the spring perches - the perches were level, the diff nose pointed down and the flanges pointed backwards giving rubbish castor angle. In other words upside down. you cut the flanges off and welded them back on at the correct angle whilst the spring perches were level. This gives the correct castor angle in relation to the spring perches when its mounted to the vehicle. So the diff will still be pointing in the wrong way in relation to the spring perches when they are in the level position? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted May 27, 2009 Share Posted May 27, 2009 but wont the spring seats now be wrong? That's what I thought, but bowed to superior knowledge. Anyway the solution is easy, just cut the axle on the inboard side of the spring seats and rotate again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 27, 2009 Author Share Posted May 27, 2009 The spring seats are fine - evrything is now fine - Jeez, where's the nearest brick wall? Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
santalars Posted May 27, 2009 Share Posted May 27, 2009 Don't forget to reset the injector timing by the same number of degree's you have rotated the flanges, divided by the transfer box ratio. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted May 27, 2009 Share Posted May 27, 2009 nice work there, don't forget to rotate the wheels forward by the correct number of degrees too hat coat door..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted May 27, 2009 Share Posted May 27, 2009 but wont the spring seats now be wrong?sorry i havent got ms paint so i'll try and describe... when you originally set it all up and welded on the spring perches - the perches were level, the diff nose pointed down and the flanges pointed backwards giving rubbish castor angle. In other words upside down. you cut the flanges off and welded them back on at the correct angle whilst the spring perches were level. This gives the correct castor angle in relation to the spring perches when its mounted to the vehicle. So the diff will still be pointing in the wrong way in relation to the spring perches when they are in the level position? From previous posts on this, if the pinion angle is correct with the new spring seats as set then the flange angle (ooerr) must have needed changing any way. otherwise the rest would be wrong now. Well done again Les for sorting it out and sharing with everyone. Marc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JEP Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 Nice work! I went re-drilling holes in the swivel housings. The spring seats also had to be cut and welded for the correct angle. pics here: http://picasaweb.google.com/rangeroverjep/...getFramaxel2009 (with swedish text, sorry) Regards John-Erik Sweden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 Since no one else has asked I will. What is so superior about leaf springs ? Bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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