reb78 Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 I know the painting of chassis' has been covered in detail and POR15 or waxoyl/Hammerite seems to get good reccomendations from you guys, but what do you think to just treating the chassis with oil? The fuel tank is currently off and i was going to clean all the rust off and paint the chassis with hammerite. My worry is that there are bits that i cannot clean sufficiently as access is tight in a few places and i don;t want to paint over the rust and trap it on the chassis thus enhancing the problem. I have a lot of old engine oil, if i clean the rust off everywhere as fully as i can, would it be better to brush on the engine oil and then re-treat with more yearly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cieranc Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Not really, it'll just wash off. POR15 has good reviews from some people, but others report it peeling off in sheets. Hammerite, they changed the chemical properties of it a few years ago to make it more pink and fluffy and it's not as good as it once was. To do the job right you'll need to clean back to bare metal and apply a good acid etch primer. This stuff eats into the metal for adhesion. But oil doesn't come recommended, not from me anyway ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
del Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Not really, it'll just wash off. POR15 has good reviews from some people, but others report it peeling off in sheets.Hammerite, they changed the chemical properties of it a few years ago to make it more pink and fluffy and it's not as good as it once was. To do the job right you'll need to clean back to bare metal and apply a good acid etch primer. This stuff eats into the metal for adhesion. But oil doesn't come recommended, not from me anyway ! I think the military used to spray the underside of there vehicles with a deisel/oil mix, but I just coat my 90 once a year with wax oil and spray the rear crossmember with a can of hammerite smooth,del Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 As a biker could I please ask that you don't cover your chassis and then the road in oil! hammerite do a underseal with waxoyl in that seems good, its quite cheap from halfrauds... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
del Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 As a biker could I please ask that you don't cover your chassis and then the road in oil! hammerite do a underseal with waxoyl in that seems good, its quite cheap from halfrauds...Mike definatly not "eco friendly" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 lots of nasty post combustion stuff in old engine oil plus it's carcenogenic to skin, dispose of the old oil at the council recycle place & use waxoyl or similar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
q-rover Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Oil will also simply wash off the first time you drive in the rain, and be left all over the road. Not eco friendly, not 2 wheel vehicle friendly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Plus certain rubbers don't like being subjected to old engine oil. Look at it thie way, if you can get engine oil on the bits you ant to protect you can get Waxoyl or similar on there too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 13, 2009 Author Share Posted July 13, 2009 Plus certain rubbers don't like being subjected to old engine oil. Look at it thie way, if you can get engine oil on the bits you ant to protect you can get Waxoyl or similar on there too. I was thinking that as i re-read the thread. My one problem with waxoil is that everytime i've used it (some years ago now) it just seemed to make any rust that was there stick to the metal more and rot quicker - i've been put off it since then. Perhaps my preparation of the surface wasn;t good enough - it just seemed to do little to halt the rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Planning to use Jotun 2 pack Jotamastic 87 or Smartpack myself . While talking to the Jotun sales chap last Friday he said if there's one piece of advice he thought I should have it was to wash what I was painting with water, ideally jetwash, before painting, and after preparation, then dry it. He said that this would get rid of acid iron salts formed during rusting which can then cause further corrosion after the paint was applied, but under the paint. I asked about the 'flash' rusting you would get after that, and he said most paints worth putting on would handle that. I have to say I was a little sceptical, but this last weekend I took off & sandblasted my rear brake calipers. After that they were a nice matt grey, but within an hour black blotches had appeared, starting with the really pitted parts, and within a day they have gone black. As it happens they turned out to be scrap, so it doesn't matter. But it does show what can be in the pores of the metal. Waxoyl or preferably Dinitrol seem to protect painted surfaces reasonably but not bare metal Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MOJO90 Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 I did risk replying once before on the subject of painting chassis but got 'shot down' so I didn't bother to try again or to explain that I work for a major industrial paint manufacturer (not Jotun but one of their competitors) who supply offshore oil platforms. So at the risk of getting shot - here goes again Best way to stop rust is to stop it from starting in the first place and galvanising is the best option from new as it protects both the inside and outside of box sections and will do so for the 'life' of the vehicle. (Don't tell my boss I said that 'cause we sell paint!) Once corrosion has started it is not easy to stop. First you need to remove all the water soluble iron salts (chlorides and sulphates - this is what the Jotun guy was refering to) by high pressure water washing and then blast clean the steel to remove all visible rust, then paint with a two-pack epoxy zinc rich primer and then an underseal or waxoyl over that. Obviously you can't do much to remove rust inside the box sections of a non-galvanised chassis, so all you can do is to try to reduce the rate of corrosion by using something like Waxoyl injected inside - you will never stop it though - only slow it down. As blasting the outside of the chassis is not really an option for most of us then the next best option is to pressure wash to remove soluble salts, then power tool clean to remove as much rust as possible, then exclude the elements with a really good paint system. A zinc rich primer is not really suitable for a power tool cleaned surface and for these surfaces the best bet is to use a 'maintenance primer' designed to 'tolerate' power tool cleaned surfaces - such as Jotamastic 87 or similar from most major industrial paint manufacturers (this is not a recommendation for Jotamastic or for Jotun Paints - just following the thread). An alternative is to use something like Waxoyl but it is not as robust as an epoxy paint and will not last as long before it needs re-applying. I would be tempted to use it over the epoxy primer as a second 'chip resistant' layer (Waxoyl is soft and 'smears' when impact damaged rather than chipping off which some 'hard coatings' might do). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Good informative post MOJO90 thanks for persevering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Good tech Mojo - contained more factual info than the entire history of posts by a certain rustproofing expert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 fridge.... you missed your quote marks . might be read accidentally that he is an actual expert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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