greenstream Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Hi All I've been looking for at write-up about somebody having used RR-axles in a series, but I tend to get the same 200 hits no matter how I'm searching ! Can anybody guide to this write-up and would someone please give me the ABC on how to use the Seach-button, as I find 200 hits quite a lot to look through. Cheers Morten Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Do you mean the whole axle or just the diffs? I don't think there's a specific thread on fitting Rangy axle to a leafer, but I'm about to do that same conversion for the rear (Range Rover axle converted for leafs and fitted to a SWB S3). Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr pepper Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 Sounds like you want to put coil spring axles on a leafer. I looked into putting disco coilers on my series, you can buy cheap brackets to weld onto the front/rear axle that fit leaf mounts, and its a simple job to do on the rear, though you may have to mod the prop shaft as the diff nose length may be diffo on the rangie. The front axle is very diffent, the coiler has a track rod position that gets right in the way of the leaf spring, you'd have to either have steering arms specially made, or lose a load of susp travel by putting spacers under the leaf springs to clear the steering arms, the other issue is the track rod that goes from one side to the other, this fouls the diff, as its on the other side, well at least on a disco. Another fouler is that a leaf acts as a leading link setup and a coiler as a trailing (I think I got that the right way round), so the castor angle is screwy on the swivels, you have to weld up the hinge point and re-drill it. Hope this applies to what your up to. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
royAB Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 Try here: http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php?t=109506 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moore101 Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 I found a load of information on this thread: http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php?t=14302 and the link i put on there has a load of information, with pictures, makes it look very simple: http://www.orrp.com/smf/index.php?topic=12985.0 al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenstream Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 Hi Again I'll try and be a bit more specifik this time, was a little upset about the search-button the last time I wrote ! Well I still am I've seen a write-up about some one (Les ?) who have cut of the flanges on a series axle and welded on some from a Defender/Range Rover, in order to use the sviwel and discs from the Defender/Range Rover. Thats what I'm looking for. I have been trying in different ways to use the search button but every time I get 200 hits and the ones up front are the newest ones and not the closet in topic. Please help me somebody, I want to be able to use the search-button - so that I dont get "Nice" answers from FF Cheers Morten Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted September 11, 2009 Share Posted September 11, 2009 Mr Les, used a coiler housing, he had to weld and rotate the flanges to achive correct castor angles in relation to the diff nose and welded spring perches. He will chime in and give you further details G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted September 11, 2009 Share Posted September 11, 2009 That's what I have done. I want to fit a 110 front axle to a SWB series 3, so I cut just about all of the old bracketry off - except for the bump stop, then made up seats for the leaf springs. I made a mistake with the diff nose angle/castor/etc, so ended-up having to cut the ends of the axle off and repositioning them. A few pics - I took loads Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenstream Posted September 11, 2009 Author Share Posted September 11, 2009 That's what I have done. I want to fit a 110 front axle to a SWB series 3, so I cut just about all of the old bracketry off - except for the bump stop, then made up seats for the leaf springs. I made a mistake with the diff nose angle/castor/etc, so ended-up having to cut the ends of the axle off and repositioning them. A few pics - I took loads Les. Hi Les Thats almost what I was looking for Not to be a tease, but it was the pictures from where you did the rotation of tyhe flanges that I was looking for. Cant quite remember how you did, but I do remember at it seemed to be the right way of doing it. Im going to use the lengt of the series axle as I wont get a MOT here in Denmark with the length, (with) of a Defender axle. Thanks again. Morten Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted September 11, 2009 Share Posted September 11, 2009 Than you will need custom shafts. If you really want to do that just drill new holes in the series axle flanges or the swivels and bolt them on. Your problem will be the shafts, unless you can use stage 1 v8 items. You will still have problems with the steering rods. Are you trying to have disc brakes on your axle?? Or whats the reason?? as i seem to have missed the point. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenstream Posted September 11, 2009 Author Share Posted September 11, 2009 Than you will need custom shafts. If you really want to do that just drill new holes in the series axle flanges or the swivels and bolt them on. Your problem will be the shafts, unless you can use stage 1 v8 items. You will still have problems with the steering rods. Are you trying to have disc brakes on your axle?? Or whats the reason?? as i seem to have missed the point. G Hi G I was going to make disc-brakes the way you did it. A mate of mine, another forumer, runs a setup close to what I'm going for, car and engine wise, but it seems that the UJ is the week link - hence the upgrade for Defender/Range Rover Swivels etc. These are easyer to uupgrade to stronger CV's. I'm aware of the issue concerning steeringrods, but are going to move these up front, by using a Swivel from a righthanddrive LR and one from a lefthanddrive LR and some steeringrods from either a Toyota or Nissan. And yes I will be needing custom shafts. I'm also aware of the Ackerman issue, but as I'm going to use the truck for Raceing, then that shouldn't be that much of an issue. M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moore101 Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 Hi all, have just fitted my range rover axles to my lightweight. finished at 5 oclock yesterday morning and spent have the day trialling it till the 1st gear in the gearbox lost/damaged a tooth. i will do a write up on here but for now will just list good points and bad points. good: -better turning circle -awesome brakes (and thats compared to 2.6 cyl ones that i had before) -higher ratio diffs make cruising speed better bad: -due to the angle of the diff the prop rubs on the engine mount at full travel, havent investigated how much -standard series setup isnt pushing the axle round on to full lock both ways, need to check arm on box as i think its hitting footwell so will be limiting travel a bit -steering on road is more responsive to bumps in the road but definetely not to the point of not being nice to drive i think thats all the main points, if anyone has any questions feel free to ask, al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mog Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 That's what I have done. I want to fit a 110 front axle to a SWB series 3, so I cut just about all of the old bracketry off - except for the bump stop, then made up seats for the leaf springs. I made a mistake with the diff nose angle/castor/etc, so ended-up having to cut the ends of the axle off and repositioning them. A few pics - I took loads Les. can some one tell me where i can get the brackets form as i am thinking of doing the same thanks mog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 You fabricate them yourself! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 You fabricate them yourself! Heystee also sells them, but at £160 a pair, plus VAT and shipping, getting your local steel fabricator to knock up a set is a better option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black ranger Posted December 30, 2009 Share Posted December 30, 2009 Hi, When you fit the range rover axles do you have to fit plastic wheel arches? Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 Probably, as even with standard wheels they stick out a couple of inches. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Woodward Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 With modulars/8 spokes you def need to. You may get away with it using Disco steels. With 235/85x16 on mods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henk Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 I am playing with similar idea but why not just weld/bolt RRC/Defender flanges on existing axle? How much wider do I need to make the Series frontaxle until I can use standard/Ashcroft halfshafts and cv's? Henk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 Probably, as even with standard wheels they stick out a couple of inches. G Here are a couple of pics from my old Hybred. RRC Steel wheel and 7.50 SAT 8 Spoke and 7.50 As can be seen they will stick out a bit but you would probabbly get away with the RRC wheel? Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 Hi G I was going to make disc-brakes the way you did it. A mate of mine, another forumer, runs a setup close to what I'm going for, car and engine wise, but it seems that the UJ is the week link - hence the upgrade for Defender/Range Rover Swivels etc. These are easyer to uupgrade to stronger CV's. I'm aware of the issue concerning steeringrods, but are going to move these up front, by using a Swivel from a righthanddrive LR and one from a lefthanddrive LR and some steeringrods from either a Toyota or Nissan. And yes I will be needing custom shafts. I'm also aware of the Ackerman issue, but as I'm going to use the truck for Raceing, then that shouldn't be that much of an issue. M Hi Morten, nice to see another Dane on here I've been at the same point as you are right now. I looked at all possibilities and really came to the conclusion that the best and cheapest solution is fitting the disk brake kit from Zeus engineering. you must remember that it includes NEW calipers, discs and pads. Remember to add all this into your calculations! And then there is the point that you save LOADS of hassle and mucking about. And getting one-off parts made is like wetting your pants the moment you need new parts. And the fact about the UJ's being weak, well it's a hard question. The HUGE advantage of the UJ is that it isn't weaker at an angle like the CV, I've even killed Nissan GR's when they tried to follow my little 88". I just banged the wheel at full lock into the bank to make the turning circle as tight as possible in a rut, and did it several times, when it was his turn it made the classical grrrrrrrrr sound AND on same tyre size I might add. Another fact about the std series shaft/UJ setup is that they are absolutely EVERYWHERE in Denmark as you probably know. So remember; keep it simple, easy to repair and easy to acquire parts for. The landrover way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 -due to the angle of the diff the prop rubs on the engine mount at full travel, havent investigated how much Fitted rangy axles complete to my brothers 109, we had to fabricate a special engine mount with a whole 1" cutout to allow the prop to clear on full travel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenstream Posted January 10, 2010 Author Share Posted January 10, 2010 Hi Søren Nice to meet you to ! I have been looking at the Zeus kit, but find it a little expensive and it consist of all special parts, where as the idea of using RR-sviwels would use std. rover spares apart from the axle. Further more then I would gain a little in trackwidth due to the spacer between the seriesaxlehousing and the RR-unit. You might be right about the cost if you use all new parts, but as you might know then Im spending some time with Ole KN and doing that Ive learned the value of secondhand parts Ole has been having som troubles with the UJ´s hence the thought of using CV´s as they can be changed to some uprated ones, if you wish to. I know th aits possible to just change to CV´s but I also want to have disc´s up front so again the RR-unit is useable. Ofcourse there is the cost of the specially made axles, but I was going for uprated axles and its propably cheaper doing it this way instead of getting sronger axles for the original serisaxlehousing. But for now its all in the head, I hope the make a test this spring as to see what the steering will be like, belive I can do this with a empty axle. If it doesnt work then I will go the same way as Gremlin. Cheers Morten Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 Oh Its never a good idea to spend too much time with Ole. He messes up your mind, and gives you weird ideas Well the easiest way I see to fitting RR axles if you choose that path is by doing a SOA setup. There are two obvious disadvantages by this as far as I see: 1 Being the height, but if you find/make some quite flat springs and even move the mount up into the axle housing you should up with what could be a normal lift. 2 Being axle wrap, but since thats already a problem it should be prevented anyways. There are a number of ways to do this. But the advantages are obvious. MUCH easier mounting of RR axle and better clearance under the springs so you won't get humiliated by all the coilers driving past you in the mud cos you're stuck on the b***dy spring perches. Keep cracking on the idea and keep us posted, it all helps keeping the mind warm in these cold winterdays Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenstream Posted January 10, 2010 Author Share Posted January 10, 2010 Hi Søren Im not gonna do a SOA, as I think that it looks like carp on a SWB, but if it was a LWB it would be totally different - like the looks of FF´s 109. I think you might have misunderstood what Im planning to do ? Use the series axlehousing. Disconnect the swivelunits where they are boltet to the axlehouse. Make a bracket to fit onto the flange on the axlehouse, with tapered holes to fit it to the axlehouse and on theother side tapered holes in which to mount the RR-swivelunits. Mount RR-swivelunits, discbrakes, callipers and CV- joints. Use custommade axles. One of the swivels that Im using is from a LH-unit from a RH-drive car adn the other is a RH-unit from a LH-drive car, this way I´ve got a forward pointing steering arm in each side in order to get both the steering rod and the trackrod up front and out of the way of the Diff. Gonna use a bracket from either a Toyota or a Nissan to mate up the steering and trackrod. As mentioned before, then I am aware of the akermann-issue. Morten Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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