will4x4 Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 Hi guys, I have two brand new identical batteries to fit in my 90 300tdi. (There the x eng ones except I bought direct) Can you help as I have spotted two problems when I had a quick go at fitting it the other day. First is the size, they just fit in if I put them side by side (so spinning them around) but it means there at an angle and not sure how to hold them down, any quick solutions to this ? ( I am thinking riveting a ratchet strap to the floor over both sides? i have had my 90 on its side and don’t want them bouncing around loose 2nd issue was how close they are to the metal lid now when I slide it back over. Is it just a case of taping an old car mat on top would this do? I am going to run them in parallel through an isolator - so positive to positive - negative to negative which i think is correct from remembering my physics A level Thanks in advance, any pictures would be great as I will have a stab tomorrow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 I put a bit of wood the correct thickness in the 'lower' part of the box, which makes them sit level. Then I made a simple clamp with some threaded rod, a bit of U-channel section aluminium, and some wingnuts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 My batteries are lengthways, secured with homemade alloy straps fixing on threaded rods. the underside [facing batteries] of my cover panel has some wide fabric tank tape applied to it so ifit did touch nothing would happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 You might like to read this thread.... http://www.landroveraddict.com/smf/index.php?topic=369337.0 HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 I got them in my 96 300 and managed to use the original clamp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjolliffe Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 Be sure to use some sort of a split charge system as the batteries wont last long if you dont! I've got the x-eng one in my truck and does the job just fine As for securing I would use the method Retroanaconda has shown.... Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=48850 shows same batteries in my 90 You need to put a spacer under the batteries I used a section of Box steel to level the battery box floor then used the standard clamp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 Mine didn't have a clamp, which is why I made one, but the standard one will serve the same purpose. Basically the same thing anyhow. I think my spacer was just a bit of 2x1 wood that I had lying around. It seems to do the job though. In time I want to get a second Trane T16 (the battery shown on the left there) to act as my secondary (and eventually winch) battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will4x4 Posted January 9, 2010 Author Share Posted January 9, 2010 thank you for your replys, i will have a go with the standard clamp and a piece of wood tomorrow. i was not going to use a split charge system but run them in parellel using a cut offswitch between the postive connection. that way i can charge it when i want and use it as a leisure battery - i.e use the kill switch when im camping so i can run it dead without using the main battery is this going to be ok?? tom why would it damage the battery? thanks p.s thanks white 90 i couldnt find that link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 thank you for your replys, i will have a go with the standard clamp and a piece of wood tomorrow. i was not going to use a split charge system but run them in parellel using a cut offswitch between the postive connection. that way i can charge it when i want and use it as a leisure battery - i.e use the kill switch when im camping so i can run it dead without using the main battery is this going to be ok?? tom why would it damage the battery? thanks p.s thanks white 90 i couldnt find that link For the cost of a 70 amp relay. You'll wish you'd fitted a split charge system the first time you forget that switch....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martifers Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 Will, I'm about to do the exact same thing as you, running two brand new cxv-x's which are currently being delivered, I wasn't going to bother with split charge either. Jolli I thought that running in parallel without a split charge was only a problem if the batteries were not identical in power rating and age? And if they wern't identical, the worse battery would damage the better? I don't know the physics behind it, maybe someone could explain or point to a thread where this is discussed? Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 I put a bit of wood the correct thickness in the 'lower' part of the box, which makes them sit level. Then I made a simple clamp with some threaded rod, a bit of U-channel section aluminium, and some wingnuts And quite rightly got the negs where the batt box cover slides on. I did mine this way so if the cover touches it can't short out. It's still a bit tight on the rear battery though, I put a plastic strip on the batt box plate to supplement the terminal cover. And a strip of high density foam between the batts to stop them rubbing. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will4x4 Posted January 10, 2010 Author Share Posted January 10, 2010 Thanks guys all done this morning. Although yours is a lot tidier! I think the only thing you forgot to add was its a complete arse of a job really really fiddly took me about 1hour 30mins of swearing. i seem to have a lot of wires all over the place - 3 isolators, two winches cables, arb loom, two light circuits two cables linking the two batts etc thanks for your help, might tidy it up another time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 Pics? I have 4 isolators arb wiring/additional lights/Heated seats/and an additional supply fuse box feed just took some time to get it acceptable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 How difficult is it to wire in the relay? Does anyone have a diagram for this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 How difficult is it to wire in the relay? Does anyone have a diagram for this? You buy a relay in a small card backed blister pack. The wiring diagram is printed on the card so it suits the relay in question.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 Just depends on your usage whether or not you want to fit a split charge relay I never have but I have no desire to camp etc with my car. I just want plenty of current available at all times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 Just depends on your usage whether or not you want to fit a split charge relay I never have but I have no desire to camp etc with my car. I just want plenty of current available at all times. That's the difference between wanting power and camping. With the second battery as a leisure battry you can't be sure how much you're taking out of it. With a lesure battery something that cuts all the equipment off when the battery drops to 11.5 volts saves the battery fron being knackered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 You buy a relay in a small card backed blister pack. The wiring diagram is printed on the card so it suits the relay in question.... Thanks for that intelligent answer Mike. I should have been more specific with my questions, I was referring to a "split charge system" diagram, I'm sure that you wouldn't find that on a relay blister pack. Searching here and on the internet I did find the below image, that will be much more helpful when I do this upgrade on my hybrid soon. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 Somebody has removed the Lucas split charge relay box from my desk. Not only that but I can't fing my Lucas book with all the diagrams in. IIRC the Lucas split charge relay is well marked with where the terminals go to. It's only rated at 70AMPs though. One small point. DON'T take the wire to the warning light wire on a modern alternator. It will blow the alternator. Take it from an ignition liuve lead. Don't dare ask how I know..... If you are thinking of running a fridge. Think about a battery monitor. The engle one is sensably priced and it cuts off the unit being used when the battery voltage drops to 11.5 volts..Here http://e.dominohosting.biz/dca/mpsdb01.nsf/Refrigeration01!OpenView&RestrictToCategory=ENGEL%20ACCESSORIES HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 Will You needent worry about the battery posts if you do two things Cover the pos terminal with the correct plastic terminal cover. Take the battery box lid and cover the bottoake sure the lid fits the box. Not only is the lid insulated but you now have a jack base easily carried. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Badger Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 These also work good. They are a bit pricy though, but the simplist to install if you don't know much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMc Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 Somebody has removed the Lucas split charge relay box from my desk. Not only that but I can't fing my Lucas book with all the diagrams in. IIRC the Lucas split charge relay is well marked with where the terminals go to. It's only rated at 70AMPs though. One small point. DON'T take the wire to the warning light wire on a modern alternator. It will blow the alternator. Take it from an ignition liuve lead. Don't dare ask how I know..... Mike, The Relay you're thinking of is the Lucas 33RA (SRB630) Split Charge Relay. Available from AES - http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/824 . W1 - Alternator Warning Light ** SEE MIKE'S NOTE ABOVE ** W2 - Earth C1 - Main Battery C2 - Auxiliary Battery C3 - Refrigerator I've been using one of these Lucas 33RA Relays, without problem, for about 15 years on my 110. Although, when I finish my Dual Battery and Winch rewire, I'll be replacing it with this - http://ibs-tech.ch/en/products/dual-battery-system/ibs-dbs-with-uproc.html which is wired a little differently to the normal Split Charge circuits - and I'll be replacing the Relay in the IBS Kit with a Tyco/AMP IP67 Sealed 300A Battery Disconnect High Current Relay - Tyco HCR - ENG_DS_V23132-X0000-A001.pdf Available on eBay - 300A AMP AMPS 12 V 24 VOLT CAR SPLIT CHARGE POWER RELAY . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 Yes Paul that's the one I use. Why the solar panel ? I have a 30 watt one. It's useless. Wel it give the battery another two hours to run the fridge in Africa. Not here though. Is that system "bush repairable" ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMc Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 Yes Paul that's the one I use. Why the solar panel ? I have a 30 watt one. It's useless. Wel it give the battery another two hours to run the fridge in Africa. Not here though. Is that system "bush repairable" ? I'm not using a solar panel (no point in this country ) that's just IBS's diagram showing where to connect various devices. The IBS system is 'field repairable' as, ultimately, it's only a relay - albeit with an electronic control/monitoring front end. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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