Wheely Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 I found answers to all the questions -the only one pending is: 3) I can't find a 200TDI alternative for the crank rear oil seal which for the 300 TDI is page 213, item 15 - is there another piece that should be changed if not this one? can you help please so i can place the order? thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dailysleaze Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 41 minutes ago, Wheely said: I found answers to all the questions -the only one pending is: 3) I can't find a 200TDI alternative for the crank rear oil seal which for the 300 TDI is page 213, item 15 - is there another piece that should be changed if not this one? can you help please so i can place the order? thanks! If you mean to want the part number for the 200Tdi crankshaft seal, it's this: https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-engine/200tdi/flywheel-clutch_53149#18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 And make sure you get the flywheel resurfaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheely Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 1 hour ago, dailysleaze said: If you mean to want the part number for the 200Tdi crankshaft seal, it's this: https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-engine/200tdi/flywheel-clutch_53149#18 great, thanks a lot - is this advisable to change it as well whilst I am doing the whole clutch? I see it's behind the flywheel engine which I wasn't planning to take out. Is it a seal that also fails often? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 26 minutes ago, Wheely said: great, thanks a lot - is this advisable to change it as well whilst I am doing the whole clutch? I see it's behind the flywheel engine which I wasn't planning to take out. Is it a seal that also fails often? Yes, you should change the seal. And you need to take the flywheel out. It needs to be resurfaced. Putting a new clutch on a worn flywheel is a bad idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheely Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 ah ok, I thought it I could resurface it in-situ, without taking the whole thing out - thanks! I guess that with the Gearbox input shaft front seal and the crankshaft seal I am done - or are there other seals, shims, etc.. that needs to be replaced whilst I am at it? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheely Posted July 12, 2019 Share Posted July 12, 2019 (edited) Hey guys, Got myself the LOF clutch kit that seems great! Going to work on it over the weekend, need someone to shed light on some questions: 1) to what NM should I close the flywheel bolts and clutch cover bolts whilst doing this job? 2) how to resurface the flywheel? 3) shall i change the 6x bolts (SX108201L) M8 X 20MM and washers (WL108002) M8, sprung ? 4) Anything else whilst at it? Edited July 12, 2019 by Wheely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 12, 2019 Share Posted July 12, 2019 I don't think most people re-surface flywheels when changing clutches? I haven't before and have had no issues at all - unless it is scored I can't see the need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheely Posted July 12, 2019 Share Posted July 12, 2019 @Red90 suggested it - would love to know what I need to do as I am getting to it shortly... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted July 12, 2019 Share Posted July 12, 2019 The flywheel is one of the friction surfaces for the clutch. Much like brake discs, having it machined to be flat provide the best friction and ensures the clutch does not wear prematurely. Unless you enjoy changing clutches, it is a good idea to do things properly while you are there. It is not an expensive thing to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheely Posted July 12, 2019 Share Posted July 12, 2019 sure, happy to do it, how do I go about it - any guidelines ? I'm in Ghana so high-tech mechanic not anywhere around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted July 12, 2019 Share Posted July 12, 2019 Never resurfaced a fly wheel yet and as Reb78 states I've had no issues either if your hell bent on doing it you will need someone with a surface grinder or failing that a lathe with a large chuck set it up with a DTI and take a skim off with a tungsten carbide tipped tool You could do it by hand with some valve grinding paste and a sheet of glass but it will take a long time Regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheely Posted July 12, 2019 Share Posted July 12, 2019 jeez - I'd pass then as would mess the hole thing up since the tools/expertise available here are limited! so question 2 is closed - can anyone help on the other three ? 1) to what NM should I close the flywheel bolts and clutch cover bolts whilst doing this job? 2) how to resurface the flywheel? 3) shall i change the 6x bolts (SX108201L) M8 X 20MM and washers (WL108002) M8, sprung ? 4) Anything else whilst at it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 12, 2019 Share Posted July 12, 2019 1 hour ago, Red90 said: The flywheel is one of the friction surfaces for the clutch. Much like brake discs, having it machined to be flat provide the best friction and ensures the clutch does not wear prematurely. Unless you enjoy changing clutches, it is a good idea to do things properly while you are there. It is not an expensive thing to do. I dont resurface brake discs when i change pads either. It might be cheap but finding machine shops becomes harder and adds a lot of hassle. I’ve never worn a clutch excessively and will get 100k miles out of one easily if not half again. I often end up changing them when a box or engine is out as a precaution before they are worn out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 12, 2019 Share Posted July 12, 2019 For number 3, reusing the bolts is fine. I have reused the washers before but might be best practice to pick up a pack and replace them (especially if they have lost their spring - i.e. are flat). With the crank seal, i leave it alone these days if its not leaking but I have a ramp that means the job is easier if it does start to leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted July 13, 2019 Share Posted July 13, 2019 You might change the spigot bearing in the end of the crank if you have one - they can be a swine to get out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 13, 2019 Share Posted July 13, 2019 Yep ^^ good thinking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheely Posted July 19, 2019 Share Posted July 19, 2019 (edited) Thanks everyone - tomorrow I will do the job - fingers crossed. Besides greasing the fork, anywhere else that I should apply some grease ? I just found out that is best to apply Hylomar sealant to mating faces of bell housing and flywheel housing...whilst I am doing the job, anywhere else I should use it ? Edited July 19, 2019 by Wheely edit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheely Posted July 22, 2019 Share Posted July 22, 2019 Hey guys, started to change the clutch over the weekend - good fun doing it, and Ghanaians always create a tool whenever they don't have what's needed - however I have a question for you: there were 3 main bolts involved in the change (1-2-3 in the pics attached). I looked on the 200 TDI workshop manual (1993 edition - link here). From it I understand that 1 is the housing flywheel to cylinder block (NM 45), 2 is the flywheel to crankshaft (NM 147) and 3 is the clutch cover plate to flywheel (NM 34). The person who sold to me the clutch kit told me that 2 had to be done at 40NM and 3 at 28NM. So I am confused as to why the torque would be so different, especially for 2. Can you clarify what I am missing out? I also asked him but would love a 3rd party opinion to understand whether need to go back into it and change the torque. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted July 23, 2019 Share Posted July 23, 2019 The flywheel to crank number offered does look incredibly low. I've found this online which may help you decide... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 23, 2019 Share Posted July 23, 2019 My 200tdi manual says 147Nm for crank to flywheel bolts, that's what I did mine up to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted July 23, 2019 Share Posted July 23, 2019 If you have only done the flywheel bolts up to 40nm then I am afraid that yes you do need to take it apart and do those again, following the workshop manual procedure exactly. Running it with them that loose will end in disaster - the flywheel needs to be very tightly held on to the end of the crankshaft, hence the 147nm torque figure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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