landroversforever Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 Hopefully going to swap my radius arms over tomorrow. Got some new ones with new genuine bushes in . Any tips? things you picked up when you did it? Obvious ones like make sure its stable on the axle stands etc. I was thinking I need to make sure the weight of the truck is right off the springs. Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 I would take the weight of the chassis yes, so that there isn't any tension on the arms or their bushes. Still going to be a pain, no matter! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 Do one at a time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landmannnn Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 I just unbolt the axle end, then the chassis end, then take it off. No jacking but I do chock the wheels. Refitting is harder because the axle will need rotating to line up the bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 I think the biggest pain doing it one at a time is the fact that I'm going from castor corrected to standard... so going to need the axle twisted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young bobtail Rhys Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 If you are going castor corrected then yes do one at a time but undo the front bolt from the opposite side to allow the axle to rotate but still remain in position and then use a small jack to help get them in and the bolt holes in line with the axle HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 A small bottle jack under the nose of the diff helps to rotate the axle and line the holes up. The chocks help minimise movement of the axle - but they do seem to end up moving. A second pair of hands is really useful - to look while you jack and rotate the wheel a bit as needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forkrentfitter Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 the difference in real terms when changing between castor corrected and standard arms is negligable,no real dramas just get on and do it!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibexman Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 I used a ratchet strap from gearbox or outrigger to stop axle moving forward cheers chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boothy Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 A great tip is to buy some QT ones, then every 3 months when you bend them AGAIN you'll have plenty of experience of swapping them again and again, I'm sure after a few goes you will work out the perfect method ,,,,,,,, I have, there is only one radius arm and it's the one it left the factory with,,,,,trust me, I'm an expert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 14, 2010 Author Share Posted August 14, 2010 Didn't get home until late afternoon, was out looking at new caravans . Got home and the heavens promptly opened. Found a few mins of dry to get the bolts all doused in WD40 . Will attack the job in the morning pending weather . Grinder and large hammer are on stand by Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zim Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 I swapped my bushes today for standard ones today throughout (which i've drilled). Went from orange poly bushes at the front of the hockey sticks as well to the chassis. and OMG i can drive to the top of our ramp (about a meter) and it articulates sooooooooooooooo much better. the rear are gigglepin arms. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jil6939 Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 Shhhhhh!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 Let us know how you get on Ross, I may need to completely 're-bush' my 110's underside in the near future, so the more tips I can gain on how to not kill myself in the process the better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 14, 2010 Author Share Posted August 14, 2010 I shall I'm wishing I had given the bolts various dousings through the week... might make tomorrows job easier! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 I think the biggest pain doing it one at a time is the fact that I'm going from castor corrected to standard... so going to need the axle twisted The biggest tip I can offer is that you put all the relevant information in at the beginning and not later after people have responded. To explain why this is annoying, I once wasted three hours helping an "engineer" fix a computer that wasn't broken! He had changed what I added before it was delivered but did not tell me until the end. It took 30 seconds to "fix" once I knew. There are a lot of people on this forum (not me!) who know everything that you need to need to know if you give them a chance to help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 15, 2010 Author Share Posted August 15, 2010 Sorry about that. I have written this thread twice. I lost it the first time when I closed without posting . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 15, 2010 Author Share Posted August 15, 2010 First trouble... Jacking is Fine, I have a disco bottle jack and a reasonable supply of thick planks for the extra height. I'm struggling to find somewhere for the axle stands. I have these ones. I wanted them under the standard front jacking points, but they are not tall enough to let me get the body weight off the springs with the wheels still on. How far back is it safe to go along the main chassis rails? Easiest place for them is the flat part just behind the gearbox cross member... but is this too far back? Do I need to buy some taller stands? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 I usually just jack it up at the front with a bottle jack and chock the wheels, then take them out one at a time. You can always put the stands on some of those thick planks (put two side by side, just as safe as some concrete IMO). Sounds like you're instantly putting new ones in, so no real need for the axle stands really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 15, 2010 Author Share Posted August 15, 2010 Ah ok. I assumed that the springs would try and push the axle out. I have the front up on the stands now. To get the extra height I've screwed two 4" fence posts together with a bit of ply at each end. Problem number two. Probably not a problem, but something I over looked. I have to take the track rod off to get the arms out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 Yes, I should have thought so. Just undo one end and swing it right round out of the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 15, 2010 Author Share Posted August 15, 2010 Couldn't do that as I have one of the QT guards that go round the track rod. Popped both ends off and wriggled it out of the way Both old arms are off. I have replaced both arms. But only loosely at the chassis end, and only one bolt on each at the axle end (propshaft side). Will need to rotate axle to get the second set of hole. One arm both ls lined up. Going to let the truck down notch by notch on the axle stands until the other holes line up . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 15, 2010 Author Share Posted August 15, 2010 Both arms all swapped over and done up . Will let it settle over night, then give it a test drive tomorrow afternoon after work. Then give the bolts a going over. Had a bit of trouble lining up last two, and especially the last holes on the front of the axle! bit of persuasion with the bottle jack and lots of jumping on the bumper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 16, 2010 Author Share Posted August 16, 2010 One problem spotted since the change. On full lock the tyres catch on the radius arms. I think this is due to the old arms being able to move on the loose bushes. Will get the spanners out tomorrow and adjust the lock stops. (or I might leave it til MOT time ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 16, 2010 Share Posted August 16, 2010 Mine have rubbed for years and been through two MOTs like that, seems like my tester just doesn't care for some reason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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