Jump to content

Converting to rear discs on a 110


Adam001

Recommended Posts

I didn't know the Td5 discs were different, but I can confirm that 300Tdi hubs, stubs and discs on a 200Tdi casing, with the bolt on bracket, works fine. Dead central in the caliper.

Rear 110 discs are the same as standard 90/110 front discs, which means for my 110 (without front vented discs as per 300Tdi on 110s) I have the same disc on all four corners. Just with four-pot calipers on the front and two-pot on the rear :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep, but as mine is a converted 200Tdi it still has the standard front discs. Will be putting vented ones on during the course of it's rebuild.

Perhaps I wrote that in a less than clear manner. By....

"my 110 - without front vented discs as per 300Tdi on 110s"

I meant to say that mine lacked what the 300Tdi-on vehicles had.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah right I see, appreciate you looking into it for me.

I got brand new TD5 discs aswell...doh! haha

Right so if I get some 300tdi rear discs then that should bolt together :) I take it then that the 300tdi and TD5 share a common stub axle

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have a look at how I did it on my disc braked Salisbury axle, including dealing with the slight variation in wheel bearing spacing and the different bearing washers required to fit the replacement hubs to the Salisbury stub axles. http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/archives/category/axles/page/2

I'm using a Discovery's brake system throughout on an axle swap on a 109, so if you are using Defender rear callipers and discs, you may find differences in whether you need to space the bracket from the axle flange or have the bracket milled to reduce its thickness where it bolts to the axle flange - it all depends on the depth of the drum and the offset of the callipers' bolt lugs, but once you have fit the new discs to the early 90/110 front hubs, you can easily assess the bracket mods by trial fitting and comparing the centreline of the disc rotor and calliper slot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The point is if you use the correct disk-braked Salisbury stub axle, you dont need to mess about with spacers, as the spacer is integral to the stub axle itself.

Using the correct parts also means you can use the later Disco ("JA>") or defender ("LA>") hubs which along with the narrow flanges allows you to fit alloys without any problems, and are probably more common.

OK you need to buy a pair of stub axles, but they're not that dear (£25 each or so) and seems a far more satisfactory solution than spacing the caliper brackets with washers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi all not had a landie since my 2a 18 years ago so please bear with me

just to recap i can either buy 300tdi stubs,shaft,hub,disc,calipers and drive member or

space 6mm between axel and stub use 200tdi front hub,disc and calipers while still keeping the original rear shaft,stub and drive member

if this is all correct sorry for looking abit dim but what what decides which hub bearings are fitted as mine are different front from rear

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hub bearings are the same on all the hubs, STC4382.

6mm spacer would be between the caliper bracket and the axle tube, if you went that route.

You dont need the 300tdi shafts, i've used the drum ones without any real issues.

Calipers and disks are the same irrespective of which route you take.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Problems!! please help

TD5 Stub axles do not fit my axle!! :(

The flange design is completely different, the old one has a lip that surrounds the casing and is flush inside whereas the TD5 has no lip and a assortment of flanges and spacers inside which mean it will not fit.

Pictures should explain my rambling...

TD5 on the left

DSC_0105.jpg

DSC_0106.jpg

Td5 on axle, air gap because of the flange

DSC_0109.jpg

TD one

DSC_0110.jpg

It seems the TD5 and 300tdi stub axles are different as it looks nothing like the one Retroanaconda put up :( I just hope nothing else is different and getting the 300tdi one will solve it

Does anyone know the 300tdi stub axle part number as paddock only sell one for all rear disc axles so that can't be right :s

I need to put a order in tonight away, but just need to be 100% sure what I need

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok think I have figured it out

ABS stub axles cannot work with any other axle

200tdi and earlier stub axles are part number FRC8540

300tdi stub axles are part number FTC1740

These are interchangeable

however the TD5 abs ones are part number FTC3188 and cannot be interchanged

Slowly we make progress, will order the 300tdi one and find the next problem :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Anybody know if a Salisbury 8ha 110 rear axle with disc brakes can be swapped for a Salisbury with drum brakes

The diff in my 1994 300tdi is goosed but so far the only Salisbury axles I can find all have drums, the discs on my axle are new, will they just bolt on or is it more trouble than putting up with the clunk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I recently did just that. Had a disc-braked Salisbury which blew up it's pinion bearing, so I bought an older drum-braked one and swapped over my stubs, hubs, shafts and brakes. The calipers for the brackets just bolt on with the stub axle bolts.

I think all Salisbury axles had bolt-on caliper mounts, it's only the new short-nosed Rover unit which has integrated ones. Even so, if yours did you could just buy a pair of brackets.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anybody know if a Salisbury 8ha 110 rear axle with disc brakes can be swapped for a Salisbury with drum brakes

The diff in my 1994 300tdi is goosed but so far the only Salisbury axles I can find all have drums, the discs on my axle are new, will they just bolt on or is it more trouble than putting up with the clunk

Yes, should be a straight forward bolt on job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excellent thanks, that's good news as the only option i've found so far is a new axle at ashcrofts for £1175 which to be honest is less than I was expecting as I just had the diff done in my iveco pickup and the crown wheel and pinion were £1200, luckily that was done under warranty.

Does the donor axle need to be a specific year or will any 8HA do

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As far as I know, the drum braked axle you convert can be of any age. As long as it's a coil-sprung Salisbury it should fit. Don't think the casing changed much (if at all?) from 1983 to 2005 or whenever they started using that beefed up P38 Rover type one.

Thanks for that, i've found a drum braked one locally

any rear Salisbury with disc brakes should fit, all were only fitted to 110 or 130's.

Disc braked ones are like finding hens teeth which is why i'll probably end up swapping the discs off my axle on to a drum one, thanks for the advice, it's much appreciated

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm extremely slowly collecting the parts to convert my 110's rear axle to disc, so far I've got

new rear calipers [110 type]
2 x complete set of 110 front hubs & stub axles, probably just use the existing stubs.
brake pads
the bolt on caliper brackets
pair of brake shields -- need to sort these with the chap whose baby sitting these

need a pair of discs
bolts for caliper to brackets
bolts for caliper brackets to axle case

then a few dry hours to sort it out, Hmmm looks like a Xmas holiday project in the making.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Ok, sorry to go all 'Holy Thread Revival Batman', but I'm confused...

Soo, after a many months during which my build has been vapourwaretm, (knocking up electrical schematics which would give PieEater a headache :P ) I'm finally doing something.

So, I've managed to get hold of the Stub-axles and caliper brackets off a scrapper 110 Salisbury Disc-Braked axle. The aim being to keep everything 'factory' and not have to bribe my local fabrication shop to make up some spacers (they're under new management and not really interested in cash-for-a-lunchtime-jobs anymore). However, I thought I had a source for the 300Tdi-era hubs, but it looks like this has fallen through, and new hubs are £££ so I'm wondering:

Lying around I have what I think is an early defender 110 front axle (from the red-donor-bus, bitsa special), so I was wondering if a grown-up could identify whether the hubs would fit based on the axle number:

7294398286_006dcd4499.jpg

Old front axle, unknown vintage by udderlyoffroad, on Flickr

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have 110 front hubs waiting for the same conversion to my rear axle, the 300Tdi hubs have the bearings closer together than the previous version, the wide bearing hubs should fit fine as your drum braked rear hubs should be the wide spaced bearing type

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lol thanks UdderlyOffroad, My schematics are simple, just the implementing that meant it got 'confusing'

Western, did you ever get the rear disc conversion sorted? And if so did you need any fabrication tools or is it a case of landy tool no 1 and alot of swearing? Looking at the thread, it looks like you need to knock up some extra lumps of metal in crazy shapes to convert. Is this correct?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

PieEater,

To quote Retroanaconda in another thread :

Two ways of doing it:

  1. Using the proper 300Tdi stub axles and hubs, with 110 rear calipers and discs.
  2. Using early 90/110 front hubs with the existing stubs axles, with 110 rear calipers and discs. (-Using a spacer)

This guide shows the latter:

http://forums.lr4x4....showtopic=11685

Mine is the former, which negates the need for the spacer, as it's integral to the later stub axles.

I’m doing plan 1, but have come unstuck because I can’t get hold of hubs without paying top dollar for new. Therefore, I’m reverting back to plan 2 which involves the aforementioned spacer lumps. The spacer lumps shouldn’t be too difficult to fabricate – but you’d want to do it with a plasma cutter/oxy torch rather than a grinder because 6mm plate would chew through discs and not make for a very neat result.

My question is, will the axle I’ve got be early enough?

The wide bearing hubs should fit fine as your drum braked rear hubs should be the wide spaced bearing type

Thanks Ralph – they certainly look like they should fit my old drum stub axles. I guess For the time being I’ll mount the old drum stub axles, fit the hubs and mount the whole axle assembly onto the truck. This will at least enable me to get a rolling chassis again. If during the build I manage to source some later 300 Tdi hubs in it should be reasonably quick to swap stub-axles & hubs. Which will keep everything ‘factory’.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lol thanks UdderlyOffroad, My schematics are simple, just the implementing that meant it got 'confusing'

Western, did you ever get the rear disc conversion sorted? And if so did you need any fabrication tools or is it a case of landy tool no 1 and alot of swearing? Looking at the thread, it looks like you need to knock up some extra lumps of metal in crazy shapes to convert. Is this correct?

not yet, still collecting the required parts it's a looooooooooooonnnnnnnnnngg term project :rofl:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy