Snagger Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 You won't have any problem with the washers. Proper spacers will be much better and will give you peace of mind, though, and might stop quizzical looks at MoT. Do yourself a favour and have the installation checked and signed off with an engineers report and forward it to your insurers - it would cover your backside if you have an accident and doesn't cost much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marco Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 I've been using 5mm spacer plates and to align the caliper and discs I've used two standard mild steel M12 washers (between caliper and bracket), guess those are 1mm thick. This has been in place since 2008 without any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marco Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 Picture taken just now... you can see the shim/washer between caliper and bracket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 You won't have any problem with the washers. Proper spacers will be much better and will give you peace of mind, though, and might stop quizzical looks at MoT.Do yourself a favour and have the installation checked and signed off with an engineers report and forward it to your insurers - it would cover your backside if you have an accident and doesn't cost much. got some washers now, so they will do as a temp measure to get the job done, thicker spacers between caliper bracket & axle flage are on order, so once these are in my hands they will replace the existing 6mm spacers & the washers, when the job is finally complete, I'll contact my insurers to tell them of the change, it's all genuine parts, so I don't expect any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 (edited) I've been using 5mm spacer plates and to align the caliper and discs I've used two standard mild steel M12 washers (between caliper and bracket), guess those are 1mm thick. This has been in place since 2008 without any problems. the place I got the washers from, said standard M12 steel washers are 2.5mm thick, measured & found thats correct. left hand rear disc all fitted with new brake pipe too, Right hand side is tomorrow's job, then bleed & check for leaks. Edited May 7, 2013 by western Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 Right hand side al fitted, boith sides bled free of air & road test carried out, everything looks good, no fluid leaks from my new brake pipes either, once my new thicker [12mm] caliper spacers are ready I'll swap them in & remove the existing 6mm spacers & the washers. will replace the cable ties with the correct brake pipe clips at a later date before MOT is due. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 Stick a piece of rubber or foam between the diff case and that right hand pipe in the interim - the pipe could fret on the edge of the diff housing and cut the softer material of the pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 I''ll move it later to get a gap between the pipe & edge of the casing & put a bit of rubber hose around the pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluehaze Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 Nice one Ralph Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 I had a look at those photos, and it looks to me like he used 300 stub axles with the 110 hubs. This means the shorter stub axle is not seating the outer race on the smooth section of stub, so is not supported properly, and the whole lot is only shown as secured by one nut, not the two required. I don't think that's a safe installation if the photos are showing the hub fully pressed on. Nick, regarding this diesel_jim has asked me to pass on a message. He just wanted to point out that he used the original drum braked stub axles and early 90/110 front 23 spline/AEU2522 CV hubs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 same as I've used, DJ gave me the front hubs & stubs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 Nick, regarding this diesel_jim has asked me to pass on a message. He just wanted to point out that he used the original drum braked stub axles and early 90/110 front 23 spline/AEU2522 CV hubs. Yep, same as Grem and I did, too. Sorry - the picture towards the bottom with the hub fitted doesn't show the inner nut, as it's hidden behind the lock washer, and the two pictures above showing the hub on the stub without the nuts fitted suggest too short a stub, but obviously they were taken with the hub not pushed all the way home. I have seen people make those sorts of mistakes before and the 300Tdi/TD5 short stub axles will fit the older axle with similar results if you did try to fit the bigger hub, though you might ot be able to get even one nut on. Glad to hear he's done it correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 that axle diesel jim did, went under V8Freaks red 110 which has now moved on to another owner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluehaze Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 This is a useful thread that contains a link to a complete parts list: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/salisbury-axle-drum-disc-brake-conversion-223788.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 He's used 300Tdi rear hubs & 300Tdi rear stubs & shafts so doesn't need the caliper spacers.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 just a bit of a update, rear brakes after the conversion are working well, collected my thicker 10mm spacers today, these will replace the 6mm spacers & the 5mm washers, once the 10mm spacers are fitted this should be the end of the conversion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluehaze Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 Have you noticed a significant improvement in braking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 Most definitely, a big improvement, but that maybe down to the rear drum shoes being very worn & a leaking hub seal on the left rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 The biggest improvement I found when switching to discs on the rear was the braking performance in wet/muddy conditions. Discs are far better at self-cleaning in these situations. Maintenance is also a lot easier, as things are easier to get at and inspect. Plus they don't need to be adjusted over the life of the pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam001 Posted June 8, 2013 Author Share Posted June 8, 2013 Have you noticed a significant improvement in braking? Massive improvement, especially when towing....but then my rear drums were not working! Drums in theory are better than discs when you consider force in to force out. But they suck at dissipating heat, need adjusting, get clogged up with mud, pain to work on etc etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 I'm quite keen to do a disc conversion on this Camel 110 as its so flippin heavy, but I'm struggling a wee bit with what options I have as I think I've now read at least 3 different threads on the subject, where I think I had just about grasped what "donor" parts could be used, I've now been tipped over the edge and thoroughly confused... I'd like to write a summary but I'm not sure I'm the best person to do this having not done it yet... Would anyone care to summarise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam001 Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 That's just the thing, there are many combinations of parts that can be used to give you a bolt on solution (like mine) or a fabricated solution. I've done it, and even I'm now confused! To remember what parts I have used I would need to strip it all down! lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 I found a list of parts from one of the other forums but I think that is using all the LR proper standard bits... pricewise its not too bad... but I've got a fair few spare axles now hanging about the place too, so did think I could maybe use some bits from them instead, but after reading all the various threads I'm leaning back towards the LR genuine set-up... ftc3306 2 caliper bracket ftc1724 1 shaft ftc1725 1 shaft ftc1740 2 stub axle ftc3846 2 Disc stc1268 1 caliper stc1269 1 caliper stc1601 1 pad kit bx110071m 8 bolt NY110041L 8 nut ftc942 2 wheel hub ftc859 2 drive member frc2310 2 plate bx110095m 10 drive member bolts ftc943 2 hub caps 549473 2 circlips ftc5241 2 bearing washer ftc3179 2 lock washer frc8700 4 nut bearings rtc3429 4 bearings ftc4785 2 inner hub seal ftc5268 2 stub axle seal Ruf000020 10 nut FTC1368 10 disc to hub bolt STC8574 2 pad clips SYP500090 4 caliper bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 When i did mine, i used 300tdi parts. I got a couple of hubs from a mate (front or rear will work, they're the same) bought new stub axles and thin drive flanges and re-used the drum shafts (they're a bit longer, but seemed to engage into the diff just fine). To me it seems the most sensible way to go. You need to source hubs anyway, so you might as well get the later style ones rather than have the hassle of machining up spacers etc. The stub axles arent expensive, nor are the drive flanges. I could write up a list of all the parts i used if you want? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 I could write up a list of all the parts i used if you want? That would be extremely handy Aragorn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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