LandyManLuke Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 Over the past week its been averaging -6C (-12C this morning) and my tdi is struggling to even maintain normal operating temperature if i turn the fan on! If i leave the fan off, it will get up to normal temperature on the gauge. Turn the fan on full speed/hot and i get about 2 minutes of nice warm air. Then the engine starts to cool down, temp gauge goes down to 1/4 warm and the temperature of the air coming out the vents becomes lukewarm. in my experience when doing the commute in town, the engine just doesnt push out enough heat to warm the engine, warm the coolant AND provide enough spare heat for the heater matrix. I have the same experience. A bit of cardboard down in front of the radiator has a significant effect! My commute is 6.5 miles of mostly flat land, and in that time, the engine does not reach operating tempertature in this weather. To be honest, I understand all the theory about a thermostat works etc etc, but the simple truth is, blocking airflow has a beneficial effect. I find that having the fan on the first (slowest) speed is about right for keeping the windscreen clear, but not taking too much heat out of the engine. It needs to be working fairly hard in this temperature to keep itself warm and support full speed on the blower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Badger Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 THIS could also help a little, as it keeps water form getting into the air intake. look for - Military snow cover for heater air intake, (as fitted to winterised Landrovers) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markyb Posted December 8, 2010 Share Posted December 8, 2010 My 12v heater arrived the other day same as the pic listed. I plan on stripping down the heater box and fitting either inside the box or the tunnel, I plan to fit a blower pump also and have them on a variable gain switch and also an isolator so i can just have the blower going in the summer, will post result when i do the work probably before Christmas. before i left work the other night truck was frozen solid, i let it for an hour ( electric fan not running) it was still not up to temp but the heater had defrosted it just about. my P38 would have been 26 degrees by then :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJB Serenity Posted December 8, 2010 Share Posted December 8, 2010 the old 'wife's hairdryer on an extension lead' trick does the job. put it in your truck first thing in the morning and let it run on hot. by the time you get in to drive to work it will be nice and toasty inside. just try to ignore the fact that your electricity bill will be through the roof next quarter! do the kenlow fans work well at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted December 8, 2010 Share Posted December 8, 2010 My 12v heater arrived the other day same as the pic listed. I plan on stripping down the heater box and fitting either inside the box or the tunnel, I plan to fit a blower pump also and have them on a variable gain switch and also an isolator so i can just have the blower going in the summer, will post result when i do the work probably before Christmas. before i left work the other night truck was frozen solid, i let it for an hour ( electric fan not running) it was still not up to temp but the heater had defrosted it just about. my P38 would have been 26 degrees by then :-) Unless you have a petrol/V8 then the 'leaving it to warm up' trick doesn't work with Land Rovers. Diesel ones just don't generate enough heat at idle to actually warm up, left to idle mine will cool right down if warm, and if started and left it will barely move the gauge in these temperatures until about 5 miles into a journey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markyb Posted December 9, 2010 Share Posted December 9, 2010 new stat in , it goes to 80 degress if i leave idling but i have fitted an electric fan and dumped the viscus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Posted December 9, 2010 Share Posted December 9, 2010 Ruuman, I really like your supercharging the heater intake idea. I will probably put an inline switch on the Bilge fan connection, to give me a 4 speed heater - just like in a car. With the ability to turn it off it needs be. Gotta just find an appropriate labelled button/switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted December 9, 2010 Share Posted December 9, 2010 For a mere £15 i fitted one of these, its some sort of resistor that speeds up the existing fan................ works a trat on my truck, 300tdi, no engine fan, warms up nicely, and hasn't yet overheated..... Oh, one question, with the original fan speed slider thingy, is the fan supposed to be on and speed up as you lower the lever.... or is it supposed to 'start' when it goes onto speed one..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 9, 2010 Share Posted December 9, 2010 it's meant AFAIK to run when the slider is moved from the top 'O' position, then speeds up to speed 1 at the first click & full speed at the 2nd click [very bottom of slider movement] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted December 9, 2010 Share Posted December 9, 2010 Oh, one question, with the original fan speed slider thingy, is the fan supposed to be on and speed up as you lower the lever.... or is it supposed to 'start' when it goes onto speed one..... The lever opens the air flow control flap (lower down is more open), and the lower two positions also turn on the fan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted December 9, 2010 Share Posted December 9, 2010 The lever opens the air flow control flap (lower down is more open), and the lower two positions also turn on the fan Thats how mine works................ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 9, 2010 Share Posted December 9, 2010 the above agrees with the Defender owners manual, see attached below Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Goon Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 I have not had any fan, electric or otherwise on my 110 for 4 years and apart from getting a bit warm once in the Pyrenees on a long climb, it has never got anywhere near hot under any normal driving conditions, long motorway blasts at about 70mph don't seem to worry it all regardless of the weather. The thing just will not heat up in winter and as far as I can tell, the controls are all working properly, although my heater controls are not the normal ones on the side of the binnacle but the old-style air-con set-up in the middle of the dash. I suspect my heater matrix is clogged up with years of mud ingress through the vent on top of the nearside wing. How much hassle is it to open the heater box and check it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 bit of a pain to get the heater unit out of the engine bay, but not impossible, then de-rivet the top & bend back to lift the matrix out for cleaning/flushing & refit well packed with water resistant foam to stop the air getting around the matrix & to stop it rattling about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 I used a cheap camping mat, as does not rot or hold water. Also great between the rad and intercooler. Am going to do this mod as soon as can work out why the heater fuse keeps blowing - got a box of old style 10amp fuses, but 6 seconds til burnout is a bit greedy. Will start a post on this in defender section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Posted December 31, 2010 Share Posted December 31, 2010 I thought I'd share this tip with others - see photo's below. If you shave the highest point off the fan, it makes fitting much easier IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smego Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 SO: What is the better solution I have plenty of air blasting out of mind but it's just not hot? If the water in the engine is at 88 degrees c (thermostat setting) should I look at one of these? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Micro-Heater-Rally-Subaru-Evo-Escort-Kit-Classic-Car-/200565109853?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2eb29cb45d Or does the water just never get hot enough? ta. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Have you adjusted the heater box cables ? Properly adjusted you will get hot (well, very warm) air from your heater with the engine up to temp. HTH Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smego Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 I think so have slackened the cable and the little arm is as far clockwise as it can go, I did notice the matrix can move in the holder, will be fitting new stat and back flushing the matrix soon, Was hoping someone had tried one of these little heaters and could feed-back, they look a little small for the claims to me?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJB Serenity Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 how exactly does the matrix work and why is it related to engine temperature and not just an ordinary electric heater? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smego Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 how exactly does the matrix work and why is it related to engine temperature and not just an ordinary electric heater? ? Some of the hot water that has been used to cool the engine is passed thought the heater matrix on it's way back to the cooling radiator, the heater matrix is just a smaller radiator that is enclosed, it is really just a big bent pipe with cooling fins, the air passes over these fins and is brought into the cab to heat you up. Therefore no hot water no heater, block this water path with rust etc and the heat output falls. Hence my question on how the little heater and fan unit can produce the same heat as a 2 bar leccy fire. The issue with Electric heaters (VW etc) is the power they need even running at 13.7v a 1kw would draw 72Amps which would stress the normal alternator even with nothing else running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJB Serenity Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Ahh I see, cheers Smego Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 If you have plenty of airflow but not enough heat, I would check: Thermostat - unless you know it's condition change it. Costs about £15 to do, genuine parts only though Flush the matrix - blockages will restrict hot water flow Matrix mounting - failing the above, it may be that the matrix is not secured properly and the air is going round the outside of it. Unlikely, but possible Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smego Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Thermostat is on order, popped into see paul in challenger today, he said the same. Going to flush the matrix out. Apert from the fact the matrix moves it seens to be in the box, also goint to check the pipe work to see if it is possible that cold air is being drawn in anywhere I doupt it is possible though. When done whould I expect the heater to be able to warm the rear as well or just the cab? If as I suapect only the cab any one have any suggestions for warming the rear for the kids? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 A 90 or a 110? Mine (90) heats the back up, but not quickly. After about 15 mins of heating it's warm back there. That's with no insulation though, I'm hoping it'll warm up quicker when I've got something back there other than sheet ally! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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