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Schweinhund!!


BogMonster
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Regular listeners to my droning might have noticed I have a low opinion of the "new Td5 type" chassis especially the bit where the towing hitch goes on. This is why:

Reversing my boat trailer in to the water to recover the RIB this afternoon ('kin ell it was cold out there, about 3 deg C and sleety showers!) and there was this curious "grrooiiiinkBANG" and.....

P6250070.jpg

Absolute bluddy rubbish they are, might as well be made of Bacofoil :angry:

The trailer ring didn't even really lock (sometimes the NATO eye will get a slot worn in it and then they can lock solid but this one is perfect, just a bit rusty) and it has just about ripped the f@^%&in thing right out of the crossmember :angry:

Still it does bring forward the requirement to "BT" the crossmember. I'm off to UK on holiday at the end of the week but will post photos of whatever I do when I come back :)

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Why was it you brought the new 90 and sold your old one??? Should have stuck with the old one its was exactly the same apart from colour wasn't it? Then you know the chassis etc. is made of proper metal.

Jon

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Why was it you brought the new 90 and sold your old one??? Should have stuck with the old one its was exactly the same apart from colour wasn't it? Then you know the chassis etc. is made of proper metal.

Jon

Many times I have said just that. A couple of new doors, a respray and sort out the notchy reverse gear would have been a lot cheaper than replacing it. And the engine and gearbox and transfer box and diffs were better in the old one with 77,000 miles on when I sold it, than this one was when I got it, never mind now at 16,000 :angry:

RT maybe I should say to LR, "I thought you said this fitting kit was supposed to reinforce the crossmember" :rolleyes:

Spot the totally dumb design anyway - the thick bit of plate is on the wrong side of the x-member, the bolts still just screw in to the same threaded holes duh who thought that one up I wonder :rolleyes:

Still friggin annoyed though :angry:

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That is really pathetic. What, did the factory forget to fit crush plates inside that crossmember? Or have they deleted them as yet another cost cutting measure ? Why do people keep buying these P.O.S? If I had the desire and the money to buy a new or late model 4x4, I am sorry to say that it certainly would not be anther Rover product. They have screwed the pooch in every way possible.

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I wonder why all the time!

sodding car leaks/breaks and gets cared for like a baby

never gets wet/dirty and has the audacity to go wrong.

Bill do you have any pics of you motors/creations to delight the members over here?

the one with Force Articulation is superb"

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Spot the totally dumb design anyway - the thick bit of plate is on the wrong side of the x-member, the bolts still just screw in to the same threaded holes duh who thought that one up I wonder

When i first saw a picture of the spreader plate I assumed that there would be another on the inside so that the main crossmember was sandwiched between the two plates. Is the rear crossmember pre-drilled and threaded then? I can't see how a plate on the outside only can help at all to strengthen a tow point - maybe move the damage to another place, but that's all.

Just to satisfy my curiosity, has anyone got a pic of the inside of the crossmember (where a spreader plate should be if you are only going to use one.)?

Les.

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When i first saw a picture of the spreader plate I assumed that there would be another on the inside so that the main crossmember was sandwiched between the two plates. Is the rear crossmember pre-drilled and threaded then? I can't see how a plate on the outside only can help at all to strengthen a tow point - maybe move the damage to another place, but that's all.

Just to satisfy my curiosity, has anyone got a pic of the inside of the crossmember (where a spreader plate should be if you are only going to use one.)?

Les.

No pic Les, because you can't access it as it's all boxed in. Although an export 300TDI 90, I assume that Stephen's got a TD5 crossmember. In that case it's all boxed in and yes you have cross threaded tubes on the inside of the cross member. I suspect what has happened is that the tubes have stayed intact and the whole crossmember has flexed. They are not made from thick steel!!

If you want a good strong cross member the only option for TD5 owners is to replace crossmember for a better one as Fuel tank stops you from beefing it up.

Steve

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I wonder why all the time!

sodding car leaks/breaks and gets cared for like a baby

never gets wet/dirty and has the audacity to go wrong.

Bill do you have any pics of you motors/creations to delight the members over here?

the one with Force Articulation is superb"

Sorry Tony, moved house about 10 months ago. One box with photos and other stuff went missing.

Can only refer you to outerlimits4x4.com Rover forum, page 60, thread title''Nigels Landey in 4wd monthly''there are a couple of short video's of hybrid with forced articulation during development testing.

Also page 58, thread title ''Daddylonglegs 6x6'' page 2 of thread. a couple of vids of my old 6x6.

Page51, thread title ''Another Volvo Rangie'' had a series of photos of a white 110 county on portals that I built as well as my series 2a SWB on home made portals, but it would seem that photos have a use by date on that forum and no longer exist.

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That is really pathetic. What, did the factory forget to fit crush plates inside that crossmember? Or have they deleted them as yet another cost cutting measure ? Why do people keep buying these P.O.S? If I had the desire and the money to buy a new or late model 4x4, I am sorry to say that it certainly would not be anther Rover product. They have screwed the pooch in every way possible.

There are no crush plates. The way it is fixed is basically just nuts welded to small bits of plate which are tacked on just inside the outer skin of the crossmember, and that is all. The outer skin is about 2mm thick.... and bends like a Cornflakes packet as you can see in the photos. The "reinforcing kit" (for which read bit of 6mm plate bolted to the outside where it does absolutely nothing useful at all with a NATO hitch) was developed early on after there were problems I think - it is even weaker without it! It does have some use if you have a 2 bolt hitch fitted in the bottom holes because then you can also put the four bolts in above the hitch which helps a bit, but it is still a bodge. With a NATO hitch you still have only the same four bolts holding it on and then the bit of angle iron along the bottom.

There are no bolts going right the way through and no spreader on the inside. The whole idea is weak even if it was made of thicker steel, and I can't imagine it costs much less to make so one wonders why they changed it really :huh: the old design with bolts right through was perfect.

Yes it is identical to the equivalent Td5 chassis apart from engine mounts I think.

Just don't snatch tow with one, that is my advice :rolleyes:

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No pic Les, because you can't access it as it's all boxed in. Although an export 300TDI 90, I assume that Stephen's got a TD5 crossmember. In that case it's all boxed in and yes you have cross threaded tubes on the inside of the cross member. I suspect what has happened is that the tubes have stayed intact and the whole crossmember has flexed. They are not made from thick steel!!

If you want a good strong cross member the only option for TD5 owners is to replace crossmember for a better one as Fuel tank stops you from beefing it up.

Steve

Yup, access denied....

DSCF3822a.jpg

DSCF3819a.jpg

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photos of a white 110 county on portals that I built as well as my series 2a SWB on home made portals, but it would seem that photos have a use by date on that forum and no longer exist.

I (obviously) saved the pics at time and they're in a folder in my home pc,will upload here as soon as I'll have the chance...

P.S.

aren't we going OT...?

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There are no crush plates. The way it is fixed is basically just nuts welded to small bits of plate which are tacked on just inside the outer skin of the crossmember, and that is all. The outer skin is about 2mm thick.... and bends like a Cornflakes packet as you can see in the photos. The "reinforcing kit" (for which read bit of 6mm plate bolted to the outside where it does absolutely nothing useful at all with a NATO hitch) was developed early on after there were problems I think - it is even weaker without it! It does have some use if you have a 2 bolt hitch fitted in the bottom holes because then you can also put the four bolts in above the hitch which helps a bit, but it is still a bodge. With a NATO hitch you still have only the same four bolts holding it on and then the bit of angle iron along the bottom.

There are no bolts going right the way through and no spreader on the inside. The whole idea is weak even if it was made of thicker steel, and I can't imagine it costs much less to make so one wonders why they changed it really :huh: the old design with bolts right through was perfect.

Yes it is identical to the equivalent Td5 chassis apart from engine mounts I think.

Just don't snatch tow with one, that is my advice :rolleyes:

That is an absolute disgrace. Words fail me. What towing capacity do they give TD5's these days? If someone has a serious accident due to the crossmember breaking while towing below the rated maximum I hope they will be permitted to sue LandRover into oblivion.

Thanks Michele, I will try to ''save'' the pics in my files from now on.

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That is an absolute disgrace. Words fail me. What towing capacity do they give TD5's these days? If someone has a serious accident due to the crossmember breaking while towing below the rated maximum I hope they will be permitted to sue LandRover into oblivion.

Land Rover will probably say that a trailer attachment should never be directly through the cross member, but via an approver tow hitch set up as pictured above. For the Wolves they strenghtened the chassis considerably...

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Land Rover will probably say that a trailer attachment should never be directly through the cross member, but via an approver tow hitch set up as pictured above. For the Wolves they strenghtened the chassis considerably...

Bear in mind the "strengthening" kit for the cross member (the bit of plate behind the jaw and the bit of angle glued on the bottom of the cross member) is an ofishul Land Rover part.

I would think they needed to strengthen the wolf. I have seen a civilian spec Td5 110 here with the whole lot ripped right off. Got a photo somewhere, will see if I can dig it out :)

It probably would be OK towing 3.5T on road with no shock loadings but there is no reserve strength there IMHO.

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My Cross member is made of paper! :blink:

Nearly as bad as the Land Rover repairer near me who tried to cover up a dodgy chassis weld-repair with polyfiller before the person who owned it told them to re-do the job <_<

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