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Propshaft bolts ...


Spooner

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Having struggled to remove the bolts on front prop, can someone please tell me what 'prop tool' they would recommend to remove them. I'm thinking of the ones on DiffLock site or maybe fleabay?For my 1999 TD5 Defender.

cheers.

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It was - but I think they've been the same for years and years!

Land Rover Propshaft Nuts and Bolts x 8

A pack of 8 new, special bolts and lock nuts to fit the axle or differential end of nearly all Land Rover propshafts, both front and rear on just about all Land Rover models as listed below:

  • Series models > All
  • Defender models 1986 > Present
  • Discovery Series 1 1989 > 1998
  • Discovery Series 2 1998 > 2004
  • Range Rover Classic 1986 > 1994
  • Range Rover P38 1995 > All

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14mm is larger than 9/16"

erm, I find completely the opposite, 14 is always tighter than 9/16 on any bolt, not just prop bolts....

In fact, doing the maths, 9/16" is 14.29mm, 14mm is well... 14mm :)

*edit* I shouldn't be so quick to reply...

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LOL...i made a typo. then editted it out :lol:

I agree the 14mm will be tighter but when you don't manage to get it onto the nut properly that one time and spin the other side with a windy gun (flat out, cos thats the only speed guns work :lol: ) you now have a round nut - doh.

G

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Not posh enough to have a windy gun most of the time, I borrow a mates one occasionally, but it's not always there.... more caution would be required... one reason why often I am happy to do nuts/bolts by hand :)

I tap it on with a small hammer, normally works for me, especially if they have been in there a while :)

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OOh, 14mm spanner. Any spanner that's springy enough to fit a nut slightly too big is also springy enough to slip off and round the nuts.

I like to use a ring spanner/prop tool on the nut/bolt by the spider and hold the other end static with an open end, if it's static the friction under the head helps hold it still.

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OOh, 14mm spanner. Any spanner that's springy enough to fit a nut slightly too big is also springy enough to slip off and round the nuts.

It's not springy, just removing caked on rust and other carp from the nut/hex head so that it doesn't slip :)

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I stopped using nylocs on propshaft bolts years ago, after I worked on a Suzuki SJ and found it was assembled with plain nuts and spring washers. They are just so much easier than battling a nyloc that's in an awkward place.

I have never had a prop nut come loose in this combination. Of course correct tightening is important.

I use a propshaft nut tool same as the Difflock one, and an ancient 9/16" open ended spanner.

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I stopped using nylocs on propshaft bolts years ago, after I worked on a Suzuki SJ and found it was assembled with plain nuts and spring washers. They are just so much easier than battling a nyloc that's in an awkward place.

I have never had a prop nut come loose in this combination. Of course correct tightening is important.

I use a propshaft nut tool same as the Difflock one, and an ancient 9/16" open ended spanner.

If you torque it correctly, then you're distorting the threads which acts as a locker. Problem is that a lot of spring washers are made out of carp and they can change the tension on the bolt, undistort the threads, and then you've just got the spring washer for locking, which is, well, carp.

If you're going to rely on proper torque (which is a fine plan as long as you're rigorous about it*), do it with a hardened flat washer under each side.

Cheers,

Jeff.

* As Carroll Smith (who ran All American Racing for Dan Gurney and Carroll Shelby) used to say: never put a bolt in without torquing it. There should be two and only two states: bolt-out, and bolt-in-and-properly-torqued.

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* As Carroll Smith (who ran All American Racing for Dan Gurney and Carroll Shelby) used to say: never put a bolt in without torquing it. There should be two and only two states: bolt-out, and bolt-in-and-properly-torqued.

Amen to that, ruined a cam with that :(

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