bluespanner Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Or more precisely, a swan neck. The height of the ball on my 38a rangie is irritatingly low, and it makes my ifor Williams ride on the front axle. What I want to do is cut the ball off and weld to that's left a suitable lump of metal with a few sets of holes. I'd put a nice gusset on top (in the U of the swan neck, if you like.) All I wondered is what kind of steel these are, and if there was any particular points about welding it. Cheers, Roland. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Just a little heads up, if your Rangie was first registered after 1998 then modifying the tow bar would technically be illegal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluespanner Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 It's a 96 :-) I'm sure a few people will say JUST DON'T... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Pre-98 it's fine to do what you want. Just make sure you're ready to stand up in court and defend it if something goes wrong big time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 It's a 96 :-) I'm sure a few people will say JUST DON'T... Not a "few" most I would think. What's wrong with using a "drop" plate but mounted up as opposed to down ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 I think that is what he is trying to achieve Mike, but the P38 has one of those detachable swan neck bars so nothing to bolt it to. Hence wanting to chop the ball off and weld a plate on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Why not just put it on normal height and use the inhibit switch to lock it there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Don't ffs DO NOT TRY TO WELD IT Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Aside from the don't do it bit.... don't welds of forged steel to mild steel have a tendency to crack? Would be a shame to ruin the swan neck (which I believe are worth a few quid). Can you not change the tow bar for a different one? something like http://www.discount-towing.co.uk/product/5535-EC_Towbar-_Range_Rover_Oct_94-Jan_02 Maybe selling the swan neck would give some funds towards it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zardos Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Put some bigger wheels on you P38, that will lift the ride height but don't weld it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Aside from the don't do it bit.... don't welds of forged steel to mild steel have a tendency to crack? Indeed they do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluespanner Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 Hmm. So would the metals not be compatible? In that case I could remove the whole swan neck bit and replace it with a bit of meaty box and weld what I want on to the end of that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluespanner Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 And please go on, Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roguevogue Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 DO NOT TRY TO WELD IT The problem with this is it's like telling teenagers not to have sex, it would be much better telling them how to do it safely. More to the point it would be better to suggest that not welding the tow ball would be best but if you do then........ I would thoroughly clean and preheat the job, (300-350c) then using type 32 rod (see link) lay a root at 35a/mm. Finish with 2 capping runs at 30a/mm, cool slowly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duncmc Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Couldn't you just use the adjustable tow bar assembly for the P38 - STC8921, its still available? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 The problem with this is it's like telling teenagers not to have sex, it would be much better telling them how to do it safely. More to the point it would be better to suggest that not welding the tow ball would be best but if you do then........ I would thoroughly clean and preheat the job, (300-350c) then using type 32 rod (see link) lay a root at 35a/mm. Finish with 2 capping runs at 30a/mm, cool slowly. NIck, thanks for explaining how to. This is outside of the capabilities of many of us, but at least we now know WHY we shouldn't blindly have a go, only for something to go wrong as a result. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 NIck, thanks for explaining how to. This is outside of the capabilities of many of us, but at least we now know WHY we shouldn't blindly have a go, only for something to go wrong as a result. Also why it would cost a few quid if taken to a pro welder. ...... In that case I could remove the whole swan neck bit and replace it with a bit of meaty box and weld what I want on to the end of that? I don't know the existing tow bars mounts construction but I would add strengthening plates to each joint as this will be subject to quite a bit of stress. If you look at the link I posted earlier (post #9) you can see they have used two large plates welded on two faces of the main box to support the piece of box that the hitch bolts to. Unless you can get the metal for free I'd question the value of modifying your own, the cost of metal and your time may quickly outweigh any saving .... plus you can sell the original one. There is of course the added peace of mind benefit that if a bought tow bar fails you aren't the one getting hauled up in court (I know nothing of your welding ability so please don't take this as an insult). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Wightman Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 The problem with this is it's like telling teenagers not to have sex, it would be much better telling them how to do it safely. More to the point it would be better to suggest that not welding the tow ball would be best but if you do then........ I would thoroughly clean and preheat the job, (300-350c) then using type 32 rod (see link) lay a root at 35a/mm. Finish with 2 capping runs at 30a/mm, cool slowly. Not a block I would put my neck on...................... Are you proposing to teach the sex crazed teenager HOW to weld as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluespanner Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 Hmm. Thanks roguevogue, I think I'll be leaving this project at the idea stage. Proper adjustable tow bars aren't much dosh by the look of things and when my ifor Williams is on the back with another rangey on, it's peace of mind I need I reckon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Can the trailer hitch not be modified to ride lower? surely thats easier to do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Can the trailer hitch not be modified to ride lower? surely thats easier to do? It would have to be a braked trailer given that it's carrying another car on it which will add complications to moving the hitch position unless it has hydraulic brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hiatt Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Can you shim the trailer hitch on the A frame to achieve the required height? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 It would have to be a braked trailer given that it's carrying another car on it which will add complications to moving the hitch position unless it has hydraulic brakes. Don't think I quite agree with that, though I do admit to forgetting it would be a braked trailer Our transporter's A frame is made of 3x2x1/4" steel angle, but could be raised or lowered by putting packers under the hitch casting, or we could have welded the angle into a C section and lowered the hitch, neither would have had a great effect on the brakes as would only mean moving vertically and not forward/backward. They don't take many minutes to set up anyway, and should be checked for adjustment and function as frequently as a Series, being drum braked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluespanner Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 I don't want to monkey with the trailer because it's not easily adjustable and sits perfectly behind all of my other vehicles. I think I'll be buying a proper adjustable hitch for the range rover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 Your all way off What is needed is bigger tyres on the back axel of the trailer ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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