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Waffle Board mounts


landroversforever

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Recently purchased a pair of 38mm gritted waffle boards and I'm after suggestions on mounting solutions.

This is to go on my external caged 90 Station Wagon.

Inside: not sure about this as I have a flight case down the O.S. wheel box and the spare tyre is flat on the floor.

Outside: Had a couple of ideas so far...

1) (making this one for now as the material won't cost me anything :P) The cage has a pair of threaded brackets on the roof. These are on the front-back top rails and are just infront of the rear door. So the plan is to make up some M10 bolts with wing-nut type heads. This would mean having the two boards on top of each other across side-side of the roof.

That's I'll make at work for now as I have a trip to wales at the end of the month.

2) Use the threaded brackets, but have the boards mounted front-back of the car with the front edges going into some kind of bracket to keep them in place and the wing bolts at the rear.

Those are the only idea's I've had so far (not actually played with the boards anywhere else on the truck yet!

Has anyone else got any ideas? How are yours mounted and what do you like/dislike about it?

Cheers :D

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I'll be watching this thread as I have a pair of 50mm waffle boards which I don't have the slightest where to mount them or how. One idea that I've been toying with is some how fixing them to the rear door tire carrier. ??

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Your ideas sound good Ross, I would suggest when making the wingnut type heads you go big, maybe 6 inches or so. That way when you inevitably drop them in the mud and carp you will be able to find them :)

One other thought, will the grit on the boards rub the paint off the roll cage? May be worth putting some slit rubber pipe on the cage where the boards will rest.

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Depending on your cage design and a station wagon you could do like I did and put the 38mm ones inside the rear cage square (you will probably need to take one row off the waffle board)

Not mine but like

IMGP0098-1.jpg

Or mine (picture includes the 50mm on the roof but they were not used much and took a lot of time to get down)

IMGP0184-1.jpg

Mine were held in by a thin bar welded across each corner (inside and out) so you could just drop them in to the pocket it formed.

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I'll be watching this thread as I have a pair of 50mm waffle boards which I don't have the slightest where to mount them or how. One idea that I've been toying with is some how fixing them to the rear door tire carrier. ??

I did wonder about putting something on the back where the wheel carrier used to be, but thought they were likely to get torn off, or at the very least block my rearward visibility.

Your ideas sound good Ross, I would suggest when making the wingnut type heads you go big, maybe 6 inches or so. That way when you inevitably drop them in the mud and carp you will be able to find them :)

One other thought, will the grit on the boards rub the paint off the roll cage? May be worth putting some slit rubber pipe on the cage where the boards will rest.

Bolts are 100mm long M10 cap heads, I've machined a slot in the end and then I've bent some 4mm bar into a vee to go on them. Going to make up some 40mm diameter washers and weld them too the underside of the bolt head for the clamping area.

Even the non gritty side is going to rub so I was thinking of putting some pond liner, zip tied to the cage.

Depending on your cage design and a station wagon you could do like I did and put the 38mm ones inside the rear cage square (you will probably need to take one row off the waffle board)

Not mine but like

Or mine (picture includes the 50mm on the roof but they were not used much and took a lot of time to get down)

Mine were held in by a thin bar welded across each corner (inside and out) so you could just drop them in to the pocket it formed.

I did look at that briefly last night, (even have a bracket on there from the P.O. at one end) but IIRC I would need to take 3 squares off the boards.

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Modified Hi-Lift jack carrier.

Proven/works on-road and off-road. Secured with bolts to prevent theft.

Pros:

easy to get to

outside of vehicle for when they become rammed with mud

easy/quick to mount

cons:

rear visibility reduced

bolts to prevent theft may or may not suit. could use wingnuts

carp position if you tow a trailer :(

mine may be for sale before we leave. Still umming and arrring over this one.

G

post-25082-0-78279400-1348245126_thumb.jpg

post-25082-0-66207400-1348245144_thumb.jpg

post-25082-0-50102100-1348245160_thumb.jpg

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G,

Your idea looks promising but I have a series rear tire carrier which has no visible thread left once the tire is mounted. Other than that little problem, I can see having the sand ladders high enough where they wouldn't be a hinder in the woods.

Todd.

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On the roof means they will catch on everything.

Can you not fit them inside across the rear just inside the door? Plenty of people have done that successfully in the past. Easy to get to (unlike on the roof when you need them!) and secure from theft (well as much as anything is secure in a Land Rover!!)

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Modified Hi-Lift jack carrier.

Proven/works on-road and off-road. Secured with bolts to prevent theft.

Pros:

easy to get to

outside of vehicle for when they become rammed with mud

easy/quick to mount

cons:

rear visibility reduced

bolts to prevent theft may or may not suit. could use wingnuts

carp position if you tow a trailer :(

mine may be for sale before we leave. Still umming and arrring over this one.

G

Mainly its the reduced visibility I don't like, but I would just end up catching them in that position. Thats the reason I don't have the spare on the outside! (although I'm considering it for daily use to get some inside space back)

On the roof means they will catch on everything.

Can you not fit them inside across the rear just inside the door? Plenty of people have done that successfully in the past. Easy to get to (unlike on the roof when you need them!) and secure from theft (well as much as anything is secure in a Land Rover!!)

Yeah they will, but so would they on the rear door. Not worried about stealability as they will only be up there on events, will jsut throw them in the back when not being used/to and from event. Due to the layout in my truck there isn't anywhere they fit well. (flight case fills the RHS wheelbox).

You can fit them on a swing a way like i have .

post-33292-0-02692200-1348220338_thumb.jpg

That would work as you have the rear winch to catch things before the waffles. Sadly I don't have that luxury.

Will post up some photos of what I made today in a bit :)

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Made these at work for the MK1 mount. Will get some photos up of it all fitted on sunday as I'm working all day tomorrow :)

IMG_15631_zps9b2006ba.jpg

Took an M10 x 100mm A2-70 stainless Cap head bolt. machined a 4mm wide slot, 4mm deep.

Bent a couple of bits of 4mm bar into a vee shape and then made a ~50mm diameter/4mm thick 'washer' for each one. All welded by one of the tame welders on site (not that any of it was made or from work :P:lol:).

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Hi,

I made a rack that clamped to the gutter using two steel bands over the roof and uses one R clip for competition use and uses two R clips and a paddlock for road use.

A couple of pictures:

post-7712-0-27518600-1348312253_thumb.jpg

post-7712-0-79308200-1348312283_thumb.jpg

It has worked well since I've made it and I'll be using it of adapting it for the TD5 build.

Steve

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I cut mine down by about 5 rows, so they now fit on top of the seat box. A couple of lashing eyes and a strap keep them there.

This is good solution, if like me, you are a laner- you rarely need them in reality and if you do use them having them on the seat box is not the worse location if they're muddy.

Not a good solution for proper off roaders though. Never had any problems with them being abit shorter either, although I guess longer the better for challenge stuff.

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Hi,

I made a rack that clamped to the gutter using two steel bands over the roof and uses one R clip for competition use and uses two R clips and a paddlock for road use.

A couple of pictures:

post-7712-0-27518600-1348312253_thumb.jpg

post-7712-0-79308200-1348312283_thumb.jpg

It has worked well since I've made it and I'll be using it of adapting it for the TD5 build.

Steve

That looks great steve. The front edge bits are the sort of thing I was thinking for the Mk2 design.

I was gonna go with strapping them to the roof bars for the Norway trip Ross. Along with a (plastic) box of strops/other recovery gear.

Plastic might become a bit brittle in those temps?

Here is a picture of the boards mounted :D

IMG_2820_zpsbbbbafb1.jpg

Got a strip of pond liner along the roll cage to get rid of the rubbing. Also got a couple of jubilee clips for depth stops when sliding the boards on from the back :)

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Good luck actually managing to knock them out when they're full of wet mud/swamp/...

I'm about as tall as you Ross, but on Mouse they never got used until we relocated them to the trayback, just because they're such a pain to get on and off the roof. Make a sliding mechanism lower/inside, you won't regret it.

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