Changing the engine oil and filter.

[Les Henson]

Part of the basic and full service of the engine is replacement of the oil and it's filter. Some people think that changing the filter for every second oil change is ok, but as a filter is just a fiver, I don't think it's a risk worth taking. There's a whole variety of oils out there - from re-cycled stuff, to mega-expensive performance oils. I would never recommend using re-cycled or 'supermarket' oils unless you adjust the change intervals to suit the carp that you have just put in your sump. Rubbish oil may be a fiver a gallon, but the cost of engine repairs kind-of negates the saving you thought you were making. Good quality oils are around £15 per gallon, plus a fiver or thereabouts for a good quality filter - you are looking at around £20 to do a decent job. Most L/R engine sumps hold in excess of a gallon - 8-litres. Just buy 2 x 4.5 litre containers - it starts to get expensive when you start to buy odd 1-litre bottles. The oil filter looks easy to get at, but fuel pipes and wires above it make it fiddly, and the front prop is in the way underneath.

A 1-gallon oil container with the side removed is the ideal size to fit in the gap under the filter. It balances on the front prop and catches the filter as it drops. Note that the container is balanced - it'll topple and fall sideways if you don't support it. The filter is usually very tight, so use a chain or strap wrench to loosten the filter, then place the container under it.

Nicely caught!!

While you are waiting for the drips to stop, put a film of grease or oil on the seal on the new filter - this will stop it bunching up and leaking when you screw it on.

Screw the new filter on quite tight by hand.

Drain the oil next - if the right amount of oil is in the sump in the first place, then you need to split the sump draining into two parts, or have a container that holds at least 8 - litres.

Vehicle needs to be on level ground, or preferably with the passenger side slightly higher.

Sump drain bolt is 17mm on this, but there are variations.

Remove the bolt and allow the sump to drain down. If you can leave it to drain for any length of time - then the better. You never will get all the oil out of the engine, but as much as possible is good.

Once the oil is drained, check the condition of the copper washer that acts as a seal. If it's distorted, then replace it. The sump bolt shouldn't be exceedingly tight, if it is, then it's probable that the copper washer will have to be replaced as the bolt will now leak - 'quite tight' with a spanner or socket is fine.

Remove the dipstick - there are two marks .When changing the filter as well, fill the sump until the high mark is achieved. Never fill above the high mark - too much oil can wreck an engine.

The oil filler is usually on the rocker cover, as in the next picture, but on some early series and military engines, there's a filler at the side of the block as well as on th erocker cover.

On disco 200 and 300 engines, the oil filler has to be turned before it will lift off, 2.5 N/A and TD engines it just yanks straight out - a ribbed rubber coller retains the filler, as in this picture.

Series vehicles have a 7/16" bolt through the area indicated in this next picture.

Wrap a rag around the neck of the filler in order to catch any spillage.

Pour a complete container of oil in, then add amounts equal to only 1/2 litre at a time until the high mark on the dpstick is achieved.

At this point the oil filter is still empty - the level will drop a small amount once the engine has been run. There's little point in continually topping the oil to the high mark all the time. As long as the level is betwwen the two, then that's fine. Once filled, start the engine and allow it tickover. The oil warning light will stay on for a few seconds longer than normal, but should go out reasonably quickly. Check for leaks - in particluar around the oil filter and sump bolt.

Les.

[western]

superb general maintenance info

[02GF74]

most excellent dude!!

now can we have a post about how to fill the tank with petrol?

seriously, ^^^ you didnl;t mention about running the engine up to temperature so the oil is more flowy. or what about using engine flushers - good or bad (never used one myself)

[Les Henson]

If you can leave the engine to drain for a couple of hours, then there's no need to warm it up first.

I don't use engine flush unless there's a good reason to, such as oil contamination by water or other substance.

Les.

[Guest mr_wuffles]

Why'd you take the filter off first? and do you not fill the new one up with oil before fitting? Not having a dig just wondering.

[JST]

i drain first then remove filter, i also don't prefill the filter.

[nas90]

most excellent dude!!

now can we have a post about how to fill the tank with petrol?

seriously, ^^^ you didnl;t mention about running the engine up to temperature so the oil is more flowy. or what about using engine flushers - good or bad (never used one myself)

If you have a hot engine a good proportion of the oil is spread around the valve gear so you will always have old to mix with the new, not so good. If you drain the oil cold most of the oil is back in the sump and then drained to waste!

[geoffbeaumont]

If you have a hot engine a good proportion of the oil is spread around the valve gear so you will always have old to mix with the new, not so good. If you drain the oil cold most of the oil is back in the sump and then drained to waste!

Hmm...I've always been told to drain the oil hot (and have done so) - but that's a fair point.

I normally use engine flush now, too, though I wouldn't bother on a newer engine - visibly cleans the gunk out of old ones, though whether it's really worth doing every change I don't know. I suppose if it works on older engines it might be worth doing on new ones too, to get rid of the small amount of muck you can't see - got to be better for the engine?

Just going by my own experiences. I'm not claiming to be an expert here - I'm what Les (entirely accurately ) calls an incompetent DIY mechanic

[s2hotdog]

Thanks Les great info for un-mechanic types

Cheers

Steve

[02GF74]

If you have a hot engine a good proportion of the oil is spread around the valve gear so you will always have old to mix with the new, not so good. If you drain the oil cold most of the oil is back in the sump and then drained to waste!

OMG there's going to be a 1/4 of a cup of old oil left round over the valve gear, that's gonna cause some serious damage innit?!??!!?

I thought the reasoning behind warming up the engine was to make the thick nasty sludgey stuff more runny so you can get that out of the sump? Pretty sure that it was the haynes manual say?

[Bull Bar Cowboy]

Excellent Les……………….

The technique on the V8’s ………. especially the early ones is slightly different. The V8 oil pump is not self priming and if you drop both the sump oil AND the filter together, there is a possibility (more like a high probability) that the remaining oil in the pump will drain out. If this happens then there will be zero oil at startup.

The successful method for me, has always been,

1.Drain the sump oil and then refill

2.Pre-fill the new filter …… this takes 5 mins but is worthwhile.

3.Change the filter.

4.Remove the HT coil feed to the dizzy (or in the case of the EFI’s …….. shut down the fuel pump) and crank the engine until the oil pressure light goes out.

5.Reconnect dizzy HT and restart engine.

If at any time oil pressure is lost then prime the pump by removing the dizzy and using an extension shaft on an electric drill ……….yes, it requires a good many rpm to prime……… however, the official way is to remove the pump and pack it with Vaseline ……….. ONLY use Vaseline (Petrolum Jelly) as this readily dissolves in oil ………. Grease does not dissolve and will cause serious engine damage by blocking the oilways

Good to see the tip on greasing (its also OK to use engine oil) on the filter seal ……… not only does it stop the bunching………. It also stops the seal sticking to the housing and requiring the use of a long screwdriver and hammer to get the filter off.

For the fastidious amongst you that are worried about a bit of oil in the valve gear ……….. the oil cooler does not drain to any great extend ……… so you will always have ½ litre or more old oil mixed with the new……… this is not significant to lose anty sleep over.

Ian

[gruntus]

Hi Les,

The one thing I have found helpfull for oil changes is to use an old washing up bowl with something suitable underneath to raise it up as far as possible to the sump. Once the plug is undone the oil will be caught by the bowl whatever the weather (I have had wind blow the oil all over the drive before and hence nagging from the MRS)

With the oil filter I usually slacken the filter and then get an old (disposable) rubber glove pulled over the filter. The result is that the excess oil that runs down the filter gets caught in the glove and also when the filter eventually drops you can still hold it upright by the glove. Let the glove also catch the trickle that otherwise ends up on the front propshaft/driveway and then no more grief off the wife!

Thanks for a good post.

Grant

[02GF74]

The technique on the V8’s ………. especially the early ones is slightly different. The V8 oil pump is not self priming and if you drop both the sump oil AND the filter together, there is a possibility (more like a high probability) that the remaining oil in the pump will drain out. If this happens then there will be zero oil at startup.

The successful method for me, has always been,

1.Drain the sump oil and then refill

2.Pre-fill the new filter …… this takes 5 mins but is worthwhile.

3.Change the filter.

well I've done oil/filter changes but for the life of me cannot remember the order (thoink it was oilchange first, then run the engine prior to filter change).

.... but I am trying to figure out why the oil pump should drain if both steps are done at once - anyone know?

[AJL]

most excellent dude!!

now can we have a post about how to fill the tank with petrol?

seriously, ^^^ you didnl;t mention about running the engine up to temperature so the oil is more flowy. or what about using engine flushers - good or bad (never used one myself)

[RANT On]

Nice sarcastic belittling post as ever 02GF74 to someone whos taken thought, time and bother to attemp to help all....well done!!

what a pitty you havnt scuttled away in the same direction as HillBilly and her sidekick Minivin

Perhaps your all knowing ungrateful attitude will detur posters from posting somthing that informs or interests you one day!

[RANT Off]

[Turbocharger]

Les, all I'd add is that, especially for engines where the filter is angled as above, I spear the base of it with a little screwdriver to drain it so I don't end up wearing oil up to my armpits...

[02GF74]

[RANT On]

Nice sarcastic belittling post as ever 02GF74 to someone whos taken thought, time and bother to attemp to help all....well done!!

what a pitty you havnt scuttled away in the same direction as HillBilly and her sidekick Minivin

Perhaps your all knowing ungrateful attitude will detur posters from posting somthing that informs or interests you one day!

[RANT Off]

First of all noone as far as I know asked Les to make this post. He or anybody else posts on here becasue they want to and as far as I aware there is no rule that anyone who reads them should show gratitude or otherwise.

If you take a look at the topics on this forum, they are about radical and non standard modifiction to trucks, namely suspension, winches, roll cage etc: stuff that is well beyond the Haynes manual one spanneer level and that is what make the forum worthwhile. So a post about something basic like this is almost taking the mick. Come on, what would your reaction be if I posted inbstrucxtions on how to pump up a tyre or which end of a hammer to hold before whacking something?

Just because I know how to change the oil on a car does not mean I am all knowing; I didn't claim to be. If people decide not to answer any of my posts, then so be it.

Anyway Les is a big boy, I'm sure he'll get over it; I'll refrain from posting to the beginner's maintenance posts in the future.

[Jason]

First of all noone as far as I know asked Les to make this post. He or anybody else posts on here becasue they want to and as far as I aware there is no rule that anyone who reads them should show gratitude or otherwise.

If you take a look at the topics on this forum, they are about radical and non standard modifiction to trucks, namely suspension, winches, roll cage etc: stuff that is well beyond the Haynes manual one spanneer level and that is what make the forum worthwhile. So a post about something basic like this is almost taking the mick. Come on, what would your reaction be if I posted inbstrucxtions on how to pump up a tyre or which end of a hammer to hold before whacking something?

Just because I know how to change the oil on a car does not mean I am all knowing; I didn't claim to be. If people decide not to answer any of my posts, then so be it.

Anyway Les is a big boy, I'm sure he'll get over it; I'll refrain from posting to the beginner's maintenance posts in the future.

Everyone has got to start somewhere

If someone takes the time to post something like this, if you feel it is beneath you, then don't post a reply

[02GF74]

If someone takes the time to post something like this, if you feel it is beneath you, then don't post a reply

fair enough but it is not like noone has ever not taken the tiddle on here is it?

I am not aware that there is anyone on this forum that is the "holy cow" who cannot have his or her leg pulled.

[LR90]

First of all noone as far as I know asked Les to make this post. He or anybody else posts on here becasue they want to and as far as I aware there is no rule that anyone who reads them should show gratitude or otherwise.

Agreed

If you take a look at the topics on this forum, they are about radical and non standard modifiction to trucks, namely suspension, winches, roll cage etc: stuff that is well beyond the Haynes manual one spanneer level and that is what make the forum worthwhile. So a post about something basic like this is almost taking the mick. Come on, what would your reaction be if I posted inbstrucxtions on how to pump up a tyre or which end of a hammer to hold before whacking something?

it may only get a one spanner rating but I don't see anything wrong with that. While there is far more serious tech on here I don't see why the forum shouldn't support those perhaps new to LRs looking to make their first steps. As someone who seems to be changing my oil every other month I'm sure there will be some out there that are taking their shiney TD5 to the dealers as often and posts like this might just encourage them to have a go themselves and who knows what they may want to try next.

And a post on how to pump up a tyre may not be such a silly idea. I ended up using CO2 to put one of mine back on the rim but maybe someone could show me how to do it with correct use of a rachet strap and a foot pump?

[darthdicky]

I think posts like this are great, I just wish Les had done them a couple of years ago as I wouldn't have spent so much money at a garage or so much time trying to figure it out for myself!

I started out having to ask someone where to put the oil - its not the sort of thing my parents are into so I've never been shown!

Richard

[Les Henson]

Blimey, steady on gents!! No need to have a row is there?

I don't change the oil filter and then the oil in that order for any particular order, and I don't see that it makes any difference (with the exception of Bull-bar cowboys post).

The hot oil/cold oil debate isn't really relevant - you switch the engine off and it's hot, it settles to the sump a wee bit quicker, but there's nothing much in it in my opinion. I let drain until there's a good few second between each drip. The oil filter is angled downwards, so it'll not drain out, so it'll have the same amount in regardless.

Washing up bowl - yes, mine is the brown square type

The reason I do these tech threads is for two main reasons - to better this site, and for the comments I usually get, such as 'well done, good thread, you a*****e"

The 'putting a disco 200TDi engine in a defender', has has almost 2,300 hits since I posted it - a lot of prestige in that.

It's always nice to know that people trust the threads I make that Tony puts in the archive.

Les.

[Guest mr_wuffles]

Good job Les i think it's great. To change the oil, air and fuel filters in a garage would be at least £150 so for the simple folks it's good.

[western]

Good simple basic information is all some readers are looking to find, others are into technical threads, personally I believe informative threads like this oil change & the fuel filter change are what the tech archive needs to encourage those completely new to the LR scene.

so come on guys, please don't slap each other down, we're all here to learn & help -- at least I am

[Adesred90]

Good simple basic information is all some readers are looking to find, others are into technical threads, personally I believe informative threads like this oil change & the fuel filter change are what the tech archive needs to encourage those completely new to the LR scene.

so come on guys, please don't slap each other down, we're all here to learn & help -- at least I am

here, here. I'd like to see more posts like these, starting at the basics and building up to the more technical stuff. I know there are plenty of young 'uns who frequent this site who would benefit from such basic info. I'll be emailing them to my 17 year old and hopefully he'll have a bash at it himself instead of running to me every time his poxy Corsa misses a beat. I for one am looking forward to the next instalment of Les' "mini series" and c'mon guys, lets have a little more input with tricks of the trade etc. etc.

Keep up the good work Les.

Ade

[nas90]

I think posts like this are great, I just wish Les had done them a couple of years ago as I wouldn't have spent so much money at a garage or so much time trying to figure it out for myself!

I started out having to ask someone where to put the oil - its not the sort of thing my parents are into so I've never been shown!

Richard

I taught my little sister to drive and before she went out on the road was shown the rudiments of a pre-journey inspection Petrol, Oil, Lights, Tyres, Water, Brakes and steering.

I also showed her where the jack and brace lived and how to change a tyre. Her boyfriends would regularly phone her to fix a flat tyre on their cars! Nowadays thats covered in the basic training, but I know that the average car driver cannot differentiate between where the screen washer liquid, water, brake fluid and oil goes and many the story of diesel in petrol tanks!

BTW Les, grand job you are doing with your techy posts, keep em' coming.