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Using longer shackles without longer hangers on the chassis for the front of each spring screws up the UJ angles and creates vibration which hammers the transmission. Been there - don't make the same mistake!

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Yes.suspension works in arcs. It you add an additional 2" in the spring shackle it will raise the body/chassis, but will lower the diff nose as the axle twists downwards, it also does interesting things to steering angles but is not the end of the world. Like snagger says you will find on some you end up having excessive vibration from ujs but wide angle props etc would make this more comfortable.

Modifying a series doesn't have to be limited, it can be quite simple and doesn't have to be expensive either!

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(ps that's yes there are only shackles at the rear)

Another thing like snagger said if you match the extended shackle with the correct extended spring hanger to suit then you will also negate the prop rumble. I.e 1 ton spring shackles all round and 1 ton spring hangers welded on chassis.

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I had a 2A Lightweight with this setup, 1 ton front hangers welded to the dumb irons. Whoever did it knew their stuff, it was pre-parabolics but it had had half the leaves removed and was super flexible - the rear tub had the wheelboxes modified as it the wheels would touch but it still drove well on the road. Full roll cage, fuel tank in tub, 2286 on SU carb went like stink

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Or 1 ton shackles, and grind the spring pads on the frant axle to correct the castor angle. I've been running mine like that with parabolics for donkeys years,

No need to do anythign with the rear axle, as change in agle doesnt seem to cause any ill effects.

Jon

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I had a 2A Lightweight with this setup, 1 ton front hangers welded to the dumb irons. Whoever did it knew their stuff, it was pre-parabolics but it had had half the leaves removed and was super flexible - the rear tub had the wheelboxes modified as it the wheels would touch but it still drove well on the road. Full roll cage, fuel tank in tub, 2286 on SU carb went like stink

I think MOD LRs had the 1-ton spec front hangers as standard, all lightweights I have seen have them, and 'regular' ex-MOD LRs I have seen too (though of course I may not have seen them all!)

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No need to do anythign with the rear axle, as change in agle doesnt seem to cause any ill effects.

Jon

'Fraid not. While I suffer no problems running extended hangers and shackles together, with just long shackles on the rear springs with a standard chassis, my UJs would only last 500 miles. The vibration would also have been harming the diff, half shafts and transfer box.

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Is yours an 88", Jon? It seems to affect 109s more than 88s. It went through several sets of UJs, each lasting 500 miles before they developped enough play that they sounded like the motorway rumble strip when I feathered the throttle at 60mph. Refitting the original shackles, even with worn UJs, cured the vibration immediately. I tried swapping back and forth several times to confirm it, and they were definitely the source of the problem. Once you move those prop flanges out of parallel, you start getting problems.

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Yep, remove spring and remove (normally cut!) the bolt going through the middle, and strip a couple (few?) leaves out, bolt it back together with a new bolt, assuming it's not too long.

Pretty sure there is a thread on here about how to disassemble, lube, and reassemble leaf springs, was very good, actually, here it is:

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=69403

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Yep, remove spring and remove (normally cut!) the bolt going through the middle, and strip a couple (few?) leaves out, bolt it back together with a new bolt, assuming it's not too long.

Pretty sure there is a thread on here about how to disassemble, lube, and reassemble leaf springs, was very good, actually, here it is:

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=69403

Wow perfect! just the sort of thing I was looking for.

Thanks.

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Clamp the springs before you cut the bolt!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My 88 is running with 109 rear shackles, because the para's have gone soft and sagged, and its the only way to keep her off the bump stops! I think new springs with new chassis next spring :(

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What brand of springs did you use? My TIC (Heystee) springs are over 15 years old and have done well over 100,000 miles and still have their full camber, and the front springs were coping reasonably well with the added weight of the winch, spare wheel, front tanks and all that sound proofing, though the addition of a third leaf to compensate has helped.

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