Lorrick Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 Hi All got the old girl up on the ramps this morning and all 4 drive shafts has play in them, some worse than others, I had the rears changed along with the drive hub 11 months ago in the rears, I commented on the fact they where 11 months old and genuine L/R and he pointed out that I had done 40,000 miles since then ? There has to be a better system than Land rover shafts as I do not want to have to change them every year. Any way that is what the slop and clonk is (eventually~) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 were the new drive members & shaft ends lubricated when they were fitted,?? if not they will wear fairly quickly, the drive member is a softer material so that will wear faster than the harder driveshaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbj Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 Hi If I understand you right, the slack is in the splines between the shaft and the drivemember. Remember to grease them well, as the TD5 is known to lack of lubrication. When you take the dust cap of, you will often see them red from rust. They are “undergreased” from the factory. They should last longer. I have changed ours once and it has done some 440000 km now. Regards Lars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 On my 110 some kind soul has welded the rear half shafts to the drivemembers; on the 90 it has mushroom headed one piece rear shafts and drivemembers. That might be a solution if it is acceptable, but has to be done well of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lorrick Posted May 10, 2013 Author Share Posted May 10, 2013 Hello The drive shafts and hubs were greased up when put in. I will look down the non L/R drive shafts and Hubs I think, and see what the off roaders use as they must be better than standard one would think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litch Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 Speak to Dave Ashcroft at Ashcroft Transmissions in Luton, he will sort you out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lorrick Posted May 10, 2013 Author Share Posted May 10, 2013 Hi Litch Ashcroft Shafts Front CV's £425 a pair Front Shafts £245 a pair Front Flanges £180 a pair Rear Shafts £260 a pair Rear Flanges £180 a pair Sub Total £1290 + VAT = £1584 Thanks but I love my truck but ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 like everything in life you get what you pay for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 Most of the wear occurs between the drive shaft and drive flange. The shaft is hardened and barely suffers any wear. Likewise fro the Diff Sun Gears and CV's. Just replace the drive flanges every so often. I know it's contrary to most of what I've said on here, but the patterned flanges last about the same time as genuine on a Td5 - and only cost £10 to £20. Terrafirma HD flanges are more expensive but have lasted the longest so far. The other option (which I think is what most owners do) is be gentle with the transmission, let the clutch up slowly - and you don't get the clonking & banging! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porsche Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 stick an auto in it ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 Most of the wear occurs between the drive shaft and drive flange. The shaft is hardened and barely suffers any wear. Likewise fro the Diff Sun Gears and CV's.Just replace the drive flanges every so often. I know it's contrary to most of what I've said on here, but the patterned flanges last about the same time as genuine on a Td5 - and only cost £10 to £20. Terrafirma HD flanges are more expensive but have lasted the longest so far. The other option (which I think is what most owners do) is be gentle with the transmission, let the clutch up slowly - and you don't get the clonking & banging! Si Yes Simon. That's what I've found with the flanges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lorrick Posted May 11, 2013 Author Share Posted May 11, 2013 Hi their, I do actually let the clutch up normally it is then clonk and bang have only just developed, and if I feather the clutch any more to stop the noise I will be going backwards. I will try the drive flange option first as there is little to lose, second option is an Auto Box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UdderlyOffroad Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 Just a side note, I've been impressed by the quality of both Paddocks & Terrafirma HD drive flanges. Nice tight fit & no silly plastic cap to loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 The after market HD flanges should wear slower than the standard ones because they have tighter tolerances (less movement in the first places) and should be harder. However, remember that the standard flanges are deliberately made soft in order to be sacrificial, wearing or failing before the other parts of the transmission, acting as a fusible link. The idea is that they are cheap, easy and quick to replace, unlike just about every other component. All these challenge vehicles with uprated shafts and flanges might suffer less failures, but when things do eventually fail, they'll be expensive. Older axles were lubricated through the stub axles to the splines, but that changes with the narrow hubs and thin flanges on the 300Tdi and later vehicles - a seal was added inside the stub axle, running against a seal land on the half shaft, to prevent oil reaching the flange splines and wheel bearings. While this may help prevent oil leaks through a weakly seated hub cone or through worn hub seals, it has obvious consequences for the splines and wheel bearings. I'm an advocate of retaining standard shafts and flanges with the oil seal removed (or cut) and the hub cone being fitted with a smear of RTV sealant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lorrick Posted May 11, 2013 Author Share Posted May 11, 2013 Thanks Snagger I will try that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.