Clonk and slack resolved

[Lorrick]

Hi All got the old girl up on the ramps this morning and all 4 drive shafts has play in them, some worse than others, I had the rears changed along with the drive hub 11 months ago in the rears, I commented on the fact they where 11 months old and genuine L/R and he pointed out that I had done 40,000 miles since then ? There has to be a better system than Land rover shafts as I do not want to have to change them every year.

Any way that is what the slop and clonk is (eventually~)

[western]

were the new drive members & shaft ends lubricated when they were fitted,??

if not they will wear fairly quickly, the drive member is a softer material so that will wear faster than the harder driveshaft.

[lbj]

Hi

If I understand you right, the slack is in the splines between the shaft and the drivemember.

Remember to grease them well, as the TD5 is known to lack of lubrication. When you take the dust cap of, you will often see them red from rust. They are “undergreased” from the factory.

They should last longer. I have changed ours once and it has done some 440000 km now.

Regards

Lars

[cackshifter]

On my 110 some kind soul has welded the rear half shafts to the drivemembers; on the 90 it has mushroom headed one piece rear shafts and drivemembers. That might be a solution if it is acceptable, but has to be done well of course.

[Lorrick]

Hello

The drive shafts and hubs were greased up when put in. I will look down the non L/R drive shafts and Hubs I think, and see what the off roaders use as they must be better than standard one would think.

[Litch]

Speak to Dave Ashcroft at Ashcroft Transmissions in Luton, he will sort you out.

[Lorrick]

Hi Litch

Ashcroft Shafts

Front CV's £425 a pair

Front Shafts £245 a pair

Front Flanges £180 a pair

Rear Shafts £260 a pair

Rear Flanges £180 a pair

Sub Total £1290 + VAT = £1584 Thanks but I love my truck but !

[mike4444244]

like everything in life you get what you pay for

[simonr]

Most of the wear occurs between the drive shaft and drive flange. The shaft is hardened and barely suffers any wear. Likewise fro the Diff Sun Gears and CV's.

Just replace the drive flanges every so often. I know it's contrary to most of what I've said on here, but the patterned flanges last about the same time as genuine on a Td5 - and only cost £10 to £20. Terrafirma HD flanges are more expensive but have lasted the longest so far.

The other option (which I think is what most owners do) is be gentle with the transmission, let the clutch up slowly - and you don't get the clonking & banging!

Si

[porsche]

stick an auto in it ;-)

[mmgemini]

Most of the wear occurs between the drive shaft and drive flange. The shaft is hardened and barely suffers any wear. Likewise fro the Diff Sun Gears and CV's.

Just replace the drive flanges every so often. I know it's contrary to most of what I've said on here, but the patterned flanges last about the same time as genuine on a Td5 - and only cost £10 to £20. Terrafirma HD flanges are more expensive but have lasted the longest so far.

The other option (which I think is what most owners do) is be gentle with the transmission, let the clutch up slowly - and you don't get the clonking & banging!

Si

Yes Simon. That's what I've found with the flanges.

[Lorrick]

Hi their, I do actually let the clutch up normally it is then clonk and bang have only just developed, and if I feather the clutch any more to stop the noise I will be going backwards. I will try the drive flange option first as there is little to lose, second option is an Auto Box

[UdderlyOffroad]

Just a side note, I've been impressed by the quality of both Paddocks & Terrafirma HD drive flanges. Nice tight fit & no silly plastic cap to loose.

[Snagger]

The after market HD flanges should wear slower than the standard ones because they have tighter tolerances (less movement in the first places) and should be harder. However, remember that the standard flanges are deliberately made soft in order to be sacrificial, wearing or failing before the other parts of the transmission, acting as a fusible link. The idea is that they are cheap, easy and quick to replace, unlike just about every other component. All these challenge vehicles with uprated shafts and flanges might suffer less failures, but when things do eventually fail, they'll be expensive.

Older axles were lubricated through the stub axles to the splines, but that changes with the narrow hubs and thin flanges on the 300Tdi and later vehicles - a seal was added inside the stub axle, running against a seal land on the half shaft, to prevent oil reaching the flange splines and wheel bearings. While this may help prevent oil leaks through a weakly seated hub cone or through worn hub seals, it has obvious consequences for the splines and wheel bearings.

I'm an advocate of retaining standard shafts and flanges with the oil seal removed (or cut) and the hub cone being fitted with a smear of RTV sealant.

[Lorrick]

Thanks Snagger I will try that