eds Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Can someone recommend which seam sealer is best to use on Defenders. I mean the brushable stuff LR use on seams and not the foam tape I was asking about earlier. Thank you :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heath robinson Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 You can seal the seams? I thought those gaps were there for drainage and ventilation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Tried em all over the last few years, now use whatever is cheapest on the internet... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted May 16, 2013 Author Share Posted May 16, 2013 No further forward with this problem As you can see from my pick I have had the bulkhead welded under the heater. From what I can tell water comes down off the windscreen and along the gutter and drops between the wing and the bonnet landing on the upper footwell under the blower hence the rot. I have had the patch done from underneath which leaves an unprotected seam just ready to rot again. I was told to seam seal it. I can only find this stuff http://www.hodgsondirect.com/shop/cartridge-sealants/seamseal-cv-non-setting-bedding-sealant-/ How would an old hand do this? I was thinking to prime with red oxide Then use seam sealant to cover any holes and the seam and fill the corner where the bulkhead meets the footwell (top left of patch with hole in) Then paint with waxoyl. I can see how to stop the water running there again hence the waxoyl idea. Thanks in advance Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 In the past I have used a brushable seam sealer on both sides of the repair (when possible), then painted over that. My theory is that the as stuff sticks to everything better than the proverbial, why put it on top of paint that is less well adhering. I use whatever my local factor has available, normally a cellulose product, judging by the fumes Most of them seem (no pun intended) to be overpaintable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted May 16, 2013 Author Share Posted May 16, 2013 Does every defender suffer all the water gathering under the heater? Is my rain water going the wrong way!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 Anything your local factor has, can get brushable or in tubes, I prefer the brushable stuff, as once back in the tin it seems to last OK on the shelf. Tetrosyl I think is the make my local factors holds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave1607 Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 not sue if this is of any help, but there is a bit of info on seam sealing here http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/seam-sealing.htm Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 This is the type of stuff,: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brushable-Seam-Sealer-Grey-1kg-/160807768438?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item2570e3d176 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted May 16, 2013 Author Share Posted May 16, 2013 That link all about seam sealer hit me, it says never use silicon sealer on a vehicle as it contaminates all the paint work, mine has it all over!! Is it really that bad? I can get to Halfords today and buy this seam sealer http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_186843_langId_-1_categoryId_165625 Will it do? It's expensive :-( Has anybody used it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 It'll be half the price for the same thing in your local factors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted May 16, 2013 Author Share Posted May 16, 2013 I've been out and bought it and applied it, Looks good so far.................. Bit messy but very brushable. Has anyone any info regarding water flowing off wing top straight under heater, is it always the same or am I missing some seals............. I was thinking of getting some thick thick seam sealer and pushing it up from under the wing top and making a lip out of the stuff which fills the space between the gutter and wing top. About an inch gap. :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 Does every defender suffer all the water gathering under the heater?Is my rain water going the wrong way!? mine had also rotted out there. along with all the other ferrous metal on a defender. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 Has anyone any info regarding water flowing off wing top straight under heater, is it always the same or am I missing some seals............. Standard Land Rover design feature I'm afraid! You could make up a plastic shedder mounted under the wing to direct the water down the side of the footwell between it and the wing skin itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted May 16, 2013 Author Share Posted May 16, 2013 At least I'm not missing something then, I take it that the whole are under the wing is a water course!, better I seal it with plenty of waxoyl and hope for the best. I can't even imagine what's going on down the side of the footwell, probably bare metal! I should take the wing off and do it properly. Grr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted May 17, 2013 Author Share Posted May 17, 2013 Upol seam sealer says you can paint over after 1 hour. I did this with no nonsense red oxide and it made all the seam sealer crack. I then put a bit of Upol on top but it made the paint wet again, bit of a mess so beware.......................... Would recommend not painting for 24h hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted May 17, 2013 Author Share Posted May 17, 2013 I have another question about sealants :-) What is the type of black sealant used to after seal things such as the holes cables go through to the cockpit. It is not silicon as it remains plyable, slightly tacky and scrapeable off. There are so many names and products all similar in description. Thanks :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 Tigerseal or sikaflex over paintable, flexable, waterproof and sticks everything to everything forever. 3-4days minimum to remove from skin you want clean hands before touching winky. Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 I think you mean Dum Dum putty. It's used to seal series windscreens among other things. http://shop.morrisminorspares.co.uk/images/graphics/T18.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 Standard Land Rover design feature I'm afraid!You could make up a plastic shedder mounted under the wing to direct the water down the side of the footwell between it and the wing skin itself. or a bit of plastic channel glued or rivetted to the bulkhead to extend the existing channel to the top of the wing so it crosses the gap, must get around to sorting this on my truck too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted May 17, 2013 Author Share Posted May 17, 2013 I bought some tiger seal but got worried it was too difficult to remove. I've noticed people say it is too good for seals that may need to be undone. I thought it was silicon too. Could be Dum Dum, I don't know. What is RTV sealant? Or Butyl sealant? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted May 18, 2013 Share Posted May 18, 2013 RTV is silicone so avoid that. Tiger Seal/Sikaflex etc are polyurethane sealers. Butyl sealant is a sort of rubber. I believe the brushable stuff typically used is polyurethane based, so tigerseal is the same idea. Proper seam sealer is a nightmare to remove, but this is a good thing given the intended purpose! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted May 19, 2013 Author Share Posted May 19, 2013 Does Tigerseal/polyurethane cover all jobs now? Do I need to bin the word silicon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossioni Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Posted last week about water in the footwells and where it was coming from.... It was exactly this problem.....If only LD would have made those bulkhead seals 5 ins longer....it would save lots of ROT... having mine tigersealed next week....should do the trick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 I got the two last tins of dumdum putty last week from my local paint supplier...he said that they no longer make it (not since 2010) Woolies trim sell caulking strips which appear to be the closest equivalent to dum dum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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