JeffR Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 As the bloody Disco has just had a front prop uj disintegrate and I need the bugger for a job on monday morning.... Dumb question coming up, will the front prop from a 110 fit - can borrow one of the V8! Failing that, anyone know where I can get a bloody uj on a sunday in cumbria or northumberland? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 I borrowed the front prop off my daughters 300Tdi Discovery to go on my Defender. I have a new u/ j here. Not sure what size you'll need though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted April 5, 2014 Author Share Posted April 5, 2014 Trouble is can't find any dimensions for uj's! May end up pulling the pair off both vehicles and having a suck it and see session in the morning! Bloody typical, spent all week sorting out an intermittent squeak, turned out to a bumper corner bracket turned to ferrous oxide, then the wife gets back from takin the kids out to say there's a new squeak an vibration, crawls underneath to find the uj is comprehensively cattle trucked! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 Try swapping the props over. I'll check the back of My Defender in the morning just to confirm I do have one. I can jump on the X10 if you need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted April 5, 2014 Author Share Posted April 5, 2014 Just been crawling under both with a tape measure and midges (wee buggers is early this year) and It looks like the two are more or less the same length... will give it a go in the morning, of course I'm forgetting the bloody obvious - just remove the prop , jam the centre diff lock on and hey presto, rear wheel drive disco! Will do for a round trip to Fontburn Reservoir on monday. Either way will let you know tomorrow. Cheers Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=87209&page=1 This thread has a fairly complete list of prop lengths in it. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 or remove it & engage difflock for the trip it'll be OK for a short time before you can get a UJ to fix it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted April 6, 2014 Author Share Posted April 6, 2014 bit of useless info - front prop is same length on 110 v8 as 200tdi disco, however the pcd of the flange bolts are completely different! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Jeff, if you rotate the prop 90 degress do the bolt holes line up then? Most props the holes form a rectangle rather than a square if you were to look at it end on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 Jeff, if you rotate the prop 90 degress do the bolt holes line up then? Most props the holes form a rectangle rather than a square if you were to look at it end on. Tried that! Managed to get a local parts shop to open up at stupid o'clock this morning, had uj installed by 9.30 - took more time tightening the bloody bolts (underneath the disco in a minor monsoon). Note to oneself - buy a bloody propshaft socket.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Jeff I've always used two spanners. I didn't like the propshaft tool. Although I think it'll be great with a windy gun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Jeff I've always used two spanners. I didn't like the propshaft tool. Although I think it'll be great with a windy gun. Glad i'm not the only one I bought a prop tool but don't think it's better so normally end up with two spammers.Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Glad it's not just me then. Mind you the army didn't have such things as a propshaft tool back in the days of Whitworth nuts and Series ones.. I keep thinking of a 1/ 4" drive 9/ 16 AF socket for that job. Lighter then the prop tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 ive always used a 9/16 socket and 3/8" drive wobble extension and ratchet for props so much quicker than the "2 spanners" method IMO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 ive always used a 9/16 socket and 3/8" drive wobble extension and ratchet for props so much quicker than the "2 spanners" method IMO MMmm Tried that. The socket catches the yoke and jams...Yep the thin Snap-On one, That's why I said 1/ 4" drive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 I've got two 9/16ths spanners specifically for the job - but I've also got a very thin walled 9/16th 12 sided socket on a 1/4" wobble extension with an adaptor to a multi-angle 3/8" drive - works a treat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmatt Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 I can't get on with the prop tool but agree with Mike on an air gun it may be good. I use two spanners to one of which is a britool spanner where the ring end is only 6 sided this was well worth its cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 The prop tool works well, but when used on a normal ratchet its clanging against the prop drives me mad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 I have a prop tool, but it is useless on my car, because it is too busy with crossmembers in the way. I am using 2 off 14 mm spanners for the diff ends (14 mm is a much tighter fit), but have changed over the nuts on the transfer box to K-nuts. This allows you to use an 11 mm ring spanner and gives you a whole lot more purchase, probably halving the amount of time to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted April 8, 2014 Author Share Posted April 8, 2014 Glad it's not just me then. Mind you the army didn't have such things as a propshaft tool back in the days of Whitworth nuts and Series ones.. I keep thinking of a 1/ 4" drive 9/ 16 AF socket for that job. Lighter then the prop tool. Doesn't quite work (ask me how I know) as the two two nuts/bolt heads next to the grease nipple jam the socket unless the prop in in EXACTLY the correct place, which if one is lying underneath aDisco with one wheel off the ground , is bloody difficult to achieve.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 AH !! Well you see ?? I don't have grease nipples fitted to the u/ j's on my props unless I'm greasing them. Thought. I've heard that sealed u/ j's live longer than greaseable ones. Anybody care to comment on that ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmatt Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 Mike I bought my 130 9 years ago and the first time I saw the length and weight of the rear prop I decided regular greasing was key to it's long life. I grease the ujs every month and 9 years on I am still on the same ujs. I doubt non greaseable would last as long but would like to know as I hate the job!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 Doesn't quite work (ask me how I know) as the two two nuts/bolt heads next to the grease nipple jam the socket unless the prop in in EXACTLY the correct place, which if one is lying underneath aDisco with one wheel off the ground , is bloody difficult to achieve.... I angle-ground the flange nuts off rather than spending ages trying to unscrew them (I never re-use Nyloc nuts on propshafts anyway) "Destructive disassembly" can massively reduce overall job-time and frustration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 Doesn't quite work (ask me how I know) as the two two nuts/bolt heads next to the grease nipple jam the socket unless the prop in in EXACTLY the correct place, which if one is lying underneath aDisco with one wheel off the ground , is bloody difficult to achieve.... Can't you just turn the prop? Especially with one wheel off the ground, pop it in neutral and job's much easier... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 Can't you just turn the prop? Especially with one wheel off the ground, pop it in neutral and job's much easier... I do that. There should be a flanged lip on the rear of the of the prop flange at the diff and gearbox. That's there to hold the bolt head in place so you can undo the nut. Unfortunately Land Rover didn't think to change that from a Whitworth headed bolt to a UNF one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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