ejparrott Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 Just checking my plan with those more knowledgeable than me! My 109 has been converted to PAS using Defender parts. Having now cured a serious wobble I'm thinking of re-ftting the steering damper. My drag link is a specially shortened Gwyn Lewis HD defender link, the original series link being too short and the defender one too long for this special application. If I fit the defender steering damper to the swan neck casting the other other end falls in fresh air, nowhere near the series mount bracket. Would there be anything wrong with me taking a series drag link mount and welding it to the GL drag link in the right place, so that the Series damper could be refitted in the right place to mate up with the bracket on the chassis end? I'm thinking that it's fine because the component I'm welding (having welded) is not a structural part of the steering. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 Gwyn Lewis does a bolt on steering damper bracket for the HD drag link. Have a look at that and either buy or copy one. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share Posted June 2, 2014 I see it...could be an option, and something I can easily make. Welding on a Series mount would be neater. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 I took a bit of 50x50x3 box, a 30mm cutter and drilled through it, welded a plate over the end of it, and an L bracket on the other. Cut through the plate with a wide grinder disc and drilled two holes in it for bolts. It then slips over the drag link and clamps tightly to it by using the bolts to squash the box slightly, hence the need for the wider slit. If that doesn't make sense I can probably find a photo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 Heat must not be applied to steering components for any reason. All the Gwyn Lewis bracket is a piece of "L" sectio held in place by two exhaust clamps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share Posted June 2, 2014 Ah. That stops that plan then. Bolt on it'll have to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickwilliams Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 I'm with Mike. Here's a picture of the Gwen lewis bracket: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 Ed with your skills and kit how about a chomped from the solid slip on and clamp with a pinch bolt bracket? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 The original bracket is welded onto the draglink on a range rover, disco, and series 3s. I also sleeved mine using a bit of 1 1/8" x 10 swg tube, then welded. I have even done this to create the correct length by sliding 2 threaded ends in and weld it. I usually do 2x45 degrees cuts to create a fish mouth. I am aware of the 'no welding'rule, but land rover does get away with it, and my truck did pass the 'you know what' test as well. So basically, that rule doesn't seem to be enforced somehow. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 This is my solution The section of the steering bar under the clamp is knurled to help the clamp grip the smooth en24t bar 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 The original bracket is welded onto the draglink on a range rover, disco, and series 3s. I also sleeved mine using a bit of 1 1/8" x 10 swg tube, then welded. I have even done this to create the correct length by sliding 2 threaded ends in and weld it. I usually do 2x45 degrees cuts to create a fish mouth. I am aware of the 'no welding'rule, but land rover does get away with it, and my truck did pass the 'you know what' test as well. So basically, that rule doesn't seem to be enforced somehow. Daan No Land Rover doesn't get away with it. The drag link will be "normalised" after welding. Something any of us can do if we have access to a furnace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 I somehow doubt that all the aftermarket manufacturers bother with that Mike (I'm not saying they shouldn't be doing it) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 I somehow doubt that all the aftermarket manufacturers bother with that Mike (I'm not saying they shouldn't be doing it) Ah yes but. Are Land Rover doing it ? Is it still necessary with the new welding gear ? If you buy something and it breaks. you have a comeback. If you do it yourself then only you are to blame should the manure hit the fan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted June 3, 2014 Author Share Posted June 3, 2014 I like Dan's solution...really neat mate! Was hoping to avoid removing the drag link from one end or the other but might have to. I suppose I could use a GL style mount for the short term - eventually I'll have to have one end or the other off for changing.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 its not that much effort to remove one end EJ haha? a love tap with BFH should be all it takes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted June 3, 2014 Author Share Posted June 3, 2014 can't be arsed.....!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted June 4, 2014 Share Posted June 4, 2014 fair enough haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 I have a couple of clamp-on brackets knocking around in the shed if they might help? Slightly different designs but both grip around the bar and offer a mount for a pin or a bushed-eye depending on which way you use them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted July 15, 2014 Author Share Posted July 15, 2014 In the end I decided I'd make up a copy of Dan's mount, it was a thought for a backup plan anyway. In production... I've got a bit of a head scratcher though.... I'm sure this is a standard 90/110 steering damper, and I'm sure this is fully compressed. The stud end is in the Series damper mount bracket which I think sits back from the side of the chassis rail the same as a 90/110 does, about 10mm, and yet it's sitting here...any thoughts? PAS box is bolted up tight to the inside of the chassis rail as the 90/110 is...did you use a shorter damper Dan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 I've got a bit of a head scratcher though.... I'm sure this is a standard 90/110 steering damper, and I'm sure this is fully compressed. The stud end is in the Series damper mount bracket which I think sits back from the side of the chassis rail the same as a 90/110 does, about 10mm, and yet it's sitting here...any thoughts? PAS box is bolted up tight to the inside of the chassis rail as the 90/110 is...did you use a shorter damper Dan? You could change the drag link to a disco one and bin the swan neck thing but this will mean you need a disco drop arm on the steering box. Sorry not got a close up image to hand but you can just about see the idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 As the damper is dropped to the mounting on the drag link the difference in length will be greater, so full left lock will not be limited by the damper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 am i missing something? isnt that damper supposed to go in the mount built into the "swan neck" in which case what was the clamp arrangement for? i do realise that your 109 has poofter steering... ...oh sorry, *power steering*. this new laptop has a mind of its own ...but doesent the other end just connect to the chassis so therefore no need to have a clampy mount? and where was the steering set in that image? straight ahead or full lock left? i see your issue if at straight ahead (thinking cap smiley) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 If the damper goes into the swan-neck as per 90/110, then the other end needs to half way between the series damper mount hole and the spring bolts, and to me that's too much strain on the bushes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 (edited) Anybody got a pic of a std 110 damper in situ? post 7 shows the unused opposite hand damper mounting on a coiler chassis so that looks tighter to the chassis than IIRC the series bracket would be. Edited July 17, 2014 by Phil Hancock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted July 17, 2014 Author Share Posted July 17, 2014 Steering was full left lock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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