Ben Spray Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 Hi all Has anyone gavanised the side frames for a 110 before (ie the sill, b and c post) I've searched on here and other forums/google etc and found a few people saying they are going to, but never anyone saying they have and if so 1)how they turned out and 2) if they had to do anything to the frames before dipping to stop them twisting etc...? Not sure if the crosstubes that the door hinges bolt through are fixed or not, ie if they are designed to move for adjustment then they will be stuck in place after dipping which is an issue... I've got a new pair of frames sitting here in my "to be galvanised" pile ie along with a bulkhead, set of rear cappings etc but not sure whether to risk it at the mo until I know someone else has been successful. Cheers all Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 I saw some galvanised ones for sale at Newbury sortout recently. Didn't stop to inspect them closely tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 There was a galvanised pair on ebay for £700, search for ebay shop landrover_refurb, good guy to deal with, I've bought recently from him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UdderlyOffroad Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 I saw some galvanised ones for sale at Newbury sortout recently. Didn't stop to inspect them closely tho. I too saw them, and didn't ask either, but given he was knocking out 'NAS' style rear steps/tow mounts in galv for £240, I reckoned 'too much'. Finish was farm gate, but I'm of the opinion that that's what galvanizing is. I was umming and ahhing about having mine dipped too - after I've repaired them. The conclusion I'm coming to is that they're thin enough gauge to allow them to be bent back into shape should they warp, so will probably go for it. So not much help really! Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 This build thread on Devon has a good write up including restoration and galvanising of the side parts. Warning. It might lead to feelings of inadequacy and/or jealousness :-) http://www.devon4x4.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=16&id=131443&limitstart=20&Itemid=106 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 the sideframes I mentioned above http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-110-CSW-B-POSTS-GALVANISED-PAIR-/171363316082?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27e60cb172 wish I could buy them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Spray Posted October 8, 2014 Author Share Posted October 8, 2014 Cheers all Some reading for later I have a brand new pair of frames so for the sake of the cost of dipping them with everything else I'm hoping its a goer, the ebay ones look ok so it can be done CheersBen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Defender_300Tdi Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 This build thread on Devon has a good write up including restoration and galvanising of the side parts. Warning. It might lead to feelings of inadequacy and/or jealousness :-) http://www.devon4x4.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=16&id=131443&limitstart=20&Itemid=106 That's my truck! Ben, to answer your question and as I guess you might have seen if you had a look at my D44 build thread, yes I had my B/C Posts galvanized and a whole heap of other parts as well. I had already had a couple of bulkheads done and a chassis so getting my B/C Posts done seemed like the next logical step. Make sure that the drain holes in the bottom of both the B and C posts are clear (so the zinc can run out), try to get someone who cares about what they are doing when you have the metal prep'ed before you send them off to be galv'ed. The chap who did mine ended up bead blasting them as he said that shot or sand blasting would just distort them due to the force and heat generated by either process. My sills "bowed" slightly from the heat of the galvanizing process, but this was an easy fix before they went to paint. If i was doing it again I would fab up jig from a piece of steel to run from the forward part of the sill to the top of the b-post and then down to the c-post to tie it all together (it might work?!). The company I used (Wedge Group) did the dripping to an Offshore Specification which means that the zinc is seriously thick! If you need to know more just drop me a message. Cheers Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Spray Posted October 10, 2014 Author Share Posted October 10, 2014 Cheers Rob, I have read through your thread on the D44 forum, it has given me some other ideas on parts that I can get dipped that I wasn't going to bother with. My main issue looking at these B/C posts is that they are e coated so will probably have to be chemically stripped I think as the coating is inside as well, makes me wonder if its worth the effort or just paint and liberally waxoyl etc inside, we'll see though Thanks Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 It's a tough decision. I'm going to get my side frames (series - but the sameish) blasted, and then beef them up a bit. I'm not going to get them dipped, but am going to get them hot zinc sprayed - it's not as thorough, wouldn't reach inside stuff, but doesn't distort panels nearly as much. It's also a much better surface for painting, as the spray leaves the surface already keyed. I'm going to use lots of zinc phosphate paint, and waxoil/dinitrol oil on the insides, I may also weld in some Zinc anodes in strategic places to act as sacrificial anodes in wet areas. It should last well enough! G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Spray Posted November 4, 2014 Author Share Posted November 4, 2014 Right so I am going to get these dipped once I've worked out how best to have the E coat etc removed and once I've had some unneeded holes welded up as these are for eariler 110's so have the holes for the lift up handle style door latches (early 2 piece style by the looks of it) I then have to drill for the later style latches and also a few other holes missing from the early frames ie for trim retention etc, I am just wondering though ultimately I would like to fit central locking doors using factory style wiring - does anyone have any pictures/measurements of the holes for the wiring and courtesy switches (assuming there are any on the second row doors) on a later 110? I assume the second row doors use a bellow of some sort like the fronts do, in which case if its the same I can get the hole size from the 2004 TD5 bulkhead I have to go on but need to know the hole position. Just seems sensible to drill all of these type oles before getting them dipped! Thanks Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Spray Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 Anyone at least just got a picture of how the second row door wiring gets into the B pillar and whether I need to drill any extra holes for it? ThanksBen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Badger Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 That truck write up is nice, and it's one of the thing I wanted to get done as most of the other parts were galvanised, chassis, bulkhead. On mine I put a stainless steel 160 litre fuel tank, with side 40 litre flow through one, might be something to add. As I use my under sill SS fuel tank as a reserve that can pump through on a switch, is is also what I use to power the pre-heater. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Here's some photos of the B pillars off a set of side frames I have, came of a 2006-ish 110. Hope they are of some use. I would be very interested to hear how you get on with the galvanising. The set in these photos are set for the same fate hopefully. There are some welded nuts or rivnuts within them which may be interesting to tap out afterwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Spray Posted November 9, 2014 Author Share Posted November 9, 2014 Excellent thanks, so looking at that its courtesy switch and then rectangular bellow hole below (will take a look at the bulkhead I have to see if its the same shape when I get a mo tomorrow) any ideas what the square hole and the 2 above and 1 below are on the inside face? Don't think I have those on my 300tdi If you get a chance at some stage could you measure where the courtesy and bellow holes are and their sizes please? It'd be good to get everything as close to factory as I can so I know it will all work, got enuogh fun on my hands trying to get the door latch holes right I think... also the rivnuts/captive nuts you mention, the only ones I can see on mine are for the seatbelts (which yes I'd imagine will be fun as I guess they are not a normal thread rate. Cheers Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Yes I'll get some measurements for you tomorrow. I think the seat belts are 7/16" UNF. There are rivnuts or the like at the bottom, the 2nd row toe plate screws to them I believe. Was a while ago since I took my 110 apart! I think the wiring for 2nd row door harnesses goes from the back of the seat box into the bottom of the B post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Spray Posted November 9, 2014 Author Share Posted November 9, 2014 Thanks Typical, I have some 7/16 UNC taps here, looks like some more to purchase then. Ah yes probably right about the toe plate looking again, hopefully they shouldn't be too much of an issue though. Thanks Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Spray Posted November 10, 2014 Author Share Posted November 10, 2014 Done a bit of digging, the second row door bellows are the same part number (YQQ000070) as the fronts so the hole required will logically be the same size. Same deal for the courtesy light switches, same part number (AFU4241L) for front and second row doors. So if you wouldn't mind just measuring me a reference point for the holes - perhaps from the inside edge of the door seal flange may be easiest? being the main straight edge to work from? and up from the sill? I can measure up the actual hole sizes from my bulkhead Thanks Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 the sideframes I mentioned above http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-110-CSW-B-POSTS-GALVANISED-PAIR-/171363316082?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27e60cb172 wish I could buy them. Can I ask an ignorant question ..... Why are they £700 ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dailysleaze Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 It's probably because the only "new" option is genuine, which are circa £400 each. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 Done a bit of digging, the second row door bellows are the same part number (YQQ000070) as the fronts so the hole required will logically be the same size. Same deal for the courtesy light switches, same part number (AFU4241L) for front and second row doors. So if you wouldn't mind just measuring me a reference point for the holes - perhaps from the inside edge of the door seal flange may be easiest? being the main straight edge to work from? and up from the sill? I can measure up the actual hole sizes from my bulkhead Thanks Ben The light switch hole is 385mm up from the sill rail and 35mm inboard from the seal flange. Both measurements to the outside of the hole. The loom hole sits 288mm up from the sill rail and 17mm inboard from the seal flange. Again measured to the edge of the hole. As you say the holes are the same as those on the A pillar of the bulkhead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Spray Posted November 10, 2014 Author Share Posted November 10, 2014 Great thanks Will get drilling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willie MacLeod Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 I've got a new pair of frames sitting here in my "to be galvanised" pile ie along with a bulkhead, set of rear cappings etc but not sure whether to risk it at the mo until I know someone else has been successful. Hi Ben A good few years ago now but I had B pillars galvanised no problem with no special treatment as such and no warping. Remember and add your rear tow bar brackets and bits like fuel tank undertray etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Spray Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 Great thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Spray Posted January 13, 2015 Author Share Posted January 13, 2015 Hi James, Do your B posts have any holes on the inner sides for the loom to clip to before going in through the large oval hole and out through the new hole I've cut for the bellow? as per these that I found a picture of, if so any chance of measurements again please ? Thanks Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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