davidharvey Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 Apart from 5hitpart are there any wheel bearing kits i should avoid? Just they seem to range in price from reasonably cheap to an arm and a leg in price. Would rather pay a bit more for something that will last, but if a cheaper one is just as good...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 Buy Timkin bearings! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 Paddocks (to name but one) used to to do Timken bearings & Corteco seals at very reasonable prices - not in kits though I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 Always buy Timken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidharvey Posted December 4, 2014 Author Share Posted December 4, 2014 Thanks guys. Yes, paddock do have the bearings at a very reasonable price. So what else would I need? Paddocks have hub seals, but also outer hub seals. Gasket and lock tab? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 Well after 120.000 miles with any type of taper roller bearing fitted I think it's in the looking after and fitting rather than the manufacturer of the bearing My Defender had four different makes of bearing fitted. Timken are like Biro and Hoover, the first manufacturer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 Yes, buy new lock tab washers!!! Gaskets for drive shaft flanges and a corteco hub seal, if by any chance the brake discs look ropey, change them while you're at it, only 5 extra bolts now, but it saves having to strip it all out again just for the same 5 bolts later on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 I use Bearmach Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neonovice Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 +1 for Bearmach Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 I just take the disassembled bits along to my local industrial-bearings-belts-and-seals place and they do the matching-up. If you arrive looking grimy and harrassed and offer to pay cash they'll often give you a good 'trade discount' too. Stake-nuts (or tab-washers for those who still struggle with the old way of doing things) I get from the local LR dealer. If doing the front, always replace the little plastic caps that cover where the CV output-shaft fits the drive-flange, and fill them with CV-type semi-fluid grease before refitting. I've seen several instances of these that have split, filled up with water, and rusted the drive-flange to the end of the CV-shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 The RTC3511 hub outer seals are supposed to be better. If you have a TD5 onwards, you'll need as Tanuki says,either a stake nut for each hub (and that assumes you don't need to change the spacer between the bearings), or you can go for the more adjustable 2 lock nuts and lock washer and no spacer per hub as per 300tdis back. so you'd need the 2 lock nuts and washer per corner. Either way get a 52mm socket or box spanner if you haven't got one. The disc check is good advice, and if you do change discs you'll need Loctite 270 for the bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidharvey Posted December 5, 2014 Author Share Posted December 5, 2014 and if you do change discs you'll need Loctite 270 for the bolts. Learned that lesson the hard way on my old Saxo, when one of the front calipers fell off. Its the rear I am doing on a 1989 90. Thanks for all the advice guys, hope I have all the bits ordered from Paddocks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlosbeldia Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 I used Timken for years, but they don't last.... had bearing failure with less than 20.000 km 3 times and then went to NTN, no more problems. Maybe is the production place, the Timken for the Defender that comes to Colombia are produced in India, the ones that I took from the car were made in Australia... I'm trying to find the FAG version but haven't been lucky... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 The last timken bearings I bought were made in America. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlosbeldia Posted December 6, 2014 Share Posted December 6, 2014 There were big issues here in my city with some bearings made by Timken in Brasil due to the high salt present in our enviroment, they rust really fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted December 6, 2014 Share Posted December 6, 2014 Carlos, where do you live? Somewhere coastal? Maybe Cartagena or Barranquilla ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJM90V8 Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 IMHO the seals are more important than the bearings. Fit first class bearings but if your seals are not great they will very soon be shot. Personal experience with Timken - generally thought to be good - lasting only a few thousand miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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