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Sound deadening


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As per title, anyone got a recommendation for sound deadening material? I've fitted the wright off road acoustic matting to the front section and have new headlining on its way so I am looking to see what others have used for good effect on the roof/floor/rear quarters.

I noticed the specialist guys seem to favour dynamat extreme.

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All dynamat is is bitumen tape, much cheaper to use flashing tape and gives the same result. I've used this on all covered areas on my series and it seems to have done a very good job. On the floor i didn't want anything that is easily damaged as i will be using it as intended so it's got a 12mm thick piece of stable matting cut to size that has cut out a lot of noise. I've left my wheel boxes bare on the inside but they have had flashing tape applied to the underside.

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The only criticisms I've read of flashing tape is that it's bitumen based - so smells on hot days - and that the adhesive can fail in hot environments.

I haven't tried sound proofing - what I've read though is that the butyl based foil backed layer stops resonance and perhaps some low range sounds - but it should then have a closed cell foam layer on top, which tackles a wide range of sounds.

These are what I'm looking at as a branded respected product without the big price of dynamat:

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=151155678947

And this for on top in doors and roof

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=151337242650

They do another for floor panels that I can't find at the moment.

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I put 50m of 30cm wide Flashband on my 110 during its rebuild, with closed cell mating on top.

Give the surfaces a really good clean, then once you've stuck the Flashband on, go over it with a wallpaper edge roller (little 50mm wide thing) and a hot air paint gun. The Flashband adhesive softens and then really takes a grip of the metal. In some areas, I put a double layer on.

I bought 10 rolls off an EBay seller, much cheaper than B&Q.

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I bought a kit of sound deadening materials for my Forester from http://www.carinsulation.co.uk

It came with stuff like dynamat but in much larger rolls and rubber based not bitumen, stick on tumble drier fluff type stuff and waterproof 3m fluff for in doors etc where it could get wet. It made a pretty big difference. The thing to remember is that different types have different effects - flashing tape, dynamat etc don't block noise, they add load and stop panel vibration - so the doors on the Foz now close with a germanic thunk not a japanese rattle. The fluffy materials absorb sound, so there should be a combination of both types to get the best results - if you look at the Wright Offroad mad there is foam underneath it to absorb sound, with the rubber top layer to damp it/reflect it back...

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Bought my 2000MY Defender 90 TD5 last November and diesel noise inside was terrible.

Defender Diesel Interior noise comes from two major sources; Airborne into cab and Structure borne into cab.

Airborne:

Bought some Brushable Seam Sealer from Morris Minor Parts - E.S.M. Spares Part No. MAC030 and sealed all holes/gaps in floor pan/bulkhead (didn't remove all bulkhead covering just lifted up and poked around, but did remove floor mats etc.) - good water seal also! Cost about £24.00 (NB. Of course looked at other water leak sources as per the good old Defender Water Ingress manual as well)

Replaced front & rear door seals, again, airborne engine and road noise paths and of course water leaks. Do the "pull out paper strip test" to ensure seals are working!

Reduced Engine radiated noise with excellent material from

http://www.foamsolutionsuk.co.uk/und...retardent-foam, 1 metre square self adhesive, just about right for under hood, trim edges for improved appearance. Cost £25.00 Removed hood and stuck on underside; added some Fir Tree fasteners for added security from EBay firm Autoclipsdirect using Ford P44 type. Cost £3.50 Marked places on hood ribs and drilled thru; making sure drill had DEPTH STOP for obvious reasons! Sounding better already!

Took rear and front head linings down, 13 years old needed a good soap & water wash. That enabled me to use another Foam Solutions material. I went for the 2 x 1 meter x 6 mm CLOSED CELL (must always be) self adhesive sheet. Cost £31.00. Cut according to need, sticks well to underside roof panel (in the summer).

Closed cell foam to these surfaces reduces noise both radiated from "loose" roof panels and "absorbs" the higher frequency noises from diesel engine.

Structure borne:

This requires basically added MASS to the panels in form of damping pads.

Soundproofing & Acoustic Control - Sound Control Services offers good bitumen based damping pads, DM5, 2.5mm thick and 2 sheets 1mtr x 750mm for about £30.00. Want to get highest density without being too thick so can be formed (in summer) to floor areas. I made paper templates for floor foot wells, over transmission tunnel, removed seats and covered all of the seat box surfaces, including the battery and ECU covers. Then cut pads to shape and just stuck down.

Also had some of the foam solutions 6mm material left over which I put under the Land Rover floor mats.

I am very pleased with the result as although you know its a diesel still, that harsh cackle and diesel combustion noise has significantly reduced and one can converse with the passenger or have the radio on.

Total cost about £115.00 plus the satisfaction of doing it myself for half the cost of packages!

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I used stuff called fatmat when I rebuilt my Defender over 3 years ago, it is bitumen based but I have had no stink from it.

I fitted it to the engine side of the bulkhead and also under the floor and its still all there and in tacked.

In fact nearly all parts of the Defender was covered in the stuff and its been great.

My Defender is a commercial so I also have 25mm kingspan on the side panels then a sheet of thin plywood and that is covered in carpet.

All in all this keeps the noise out and heat in.

:i-m_so_happy::i-m_so_happy:

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I used the Noise Killer foam rubber "eggbox" type kit on the roof of my hardtop. It works very well and has cut the resonance down and improved the warmth no end!

One little mod I did though was to cover the internal struts firts.

http://www.nkgroup.co.uk/product/land-rover-roof-section-using-25mm-egg-box/

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