mike4444244 Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Hi Reading the posts by Deepmud et al has re-awakened my desire to go exploring, sadly work means a long trip is out of the question so I'd like to go to Northern Europe/Scandinavia, I'd like some advice on winterising and noticed there a few other members like Fridge who are thinking similar Can we have a technical how-to thread by the members who live in these chilly places, as in what we need to do to avoid freezing to death or breaking the car, what's a luxury vs necessity etc I'll go first... How cold can you go with a diesel TD5 before you have to start worrying about diesel waxing? Thanks Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 The answer to your question about waxing is "it depends on the grade of Diesel in your tank". In cold-climate areas they have "winter" and "summer" diesel fuel - which are refined to different standards. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EN_590 for the standards for "EN590" Diesel as sold in Europe. To be accepted as "Class 4" EN590 Arctic diesel it has to meet a Cold Filter Plugging Point of -44 Centigrade or colder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted January 23, 2015 Author Share Posted January 23, 2015 Perfect thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Mike, Jason did a lot of work insulating his truck and preparing for a trip to north Norway a few February's ago.... Might be able to root out his thread or ask him direct? (Found it.... http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=78087&hl=norway#entry687330 ) Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Where I live it gets down to -40. My 90 is nice and warm and comfortable. Better than any other car I've driven. 1) Get rid of the drafts. New seals, adjustments as needed. 2) Add insulation. The stock trucks are horrible. 3) Overhaul the heater. The heater flaps lose their sealing. The heater cores get plugged. If you can do some fabrication, add a better heater.http://www.red90.ca/rovers/Heater/heater.html 4) Get a Webasto coolant heater. Greatest winter device ever. 5) Use a decent winter diesel fuel conditioner to ensure you do not get gelling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 That's great work, Red. I don't know if that system would fit a RHD vehicle with the mainfolds being so close to the foot well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Yes. I gave a suggestion for a smaller one that would fit a RHD. http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sum-991102-1/overview/ There are some options in the UK as well. http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/heatac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 How many Kw is a standard defender heater? Anyone got any idea for comparisons purposes ? Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 That kit looks a lot like an RRC AC condenser and fans, I'm sure you could do something with them from a scrapper and some steel sheeting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted January 24, 2015 Author Share Posted January 24, 2015 There must be something that drops in, that said I'm quite impressed by the standard heater on my td5 it's much better than my old 200tdi one I've got a big eberspacher d3lc and a kenlowe hot start but that's obviously dependent on having a mains supply available! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g&t Posted January 30, 2015 Share Posted January 30, 2015 Can you still buy these heaters to run on petrol? I seem to remember petrol engine ambulances using them years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 I think you can buy petrol Eberspacher (air heaters), model starts with "B" rather than "D", not sure about the (Webasto) water heaters as they're mostly used to warm up diesels which are too efficient to make much heat. TBH having a small tank of diesel to run one is no biggie, they sip less than 0.5l/hour running absolutely flat out so a half-size jerry with a dip tube gets you 24 hours of volcanic activity, or 4-5x that in "simmer" mode. I'll be coming back to this thread with various questions once the campbulance build gets underway, the current insulation/panelling is below par for numerous reasons (thin, old tech, plenty of "cold bridges") but we can't afford the space to bung 50mm thick celotex over every surface so some sort of compromise will have to be reached. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 How many Kw is a standard defender heater? Anyone got any idea for comparisons purposes ? Mo I measured 3 kW on mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 25mm celotex is as good as 6-8 inches of fibreglass, and available in many, many thicknesses that you could choose from to make your build easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 I put together a webesto thermotop c/z about 2 winters ago and its a great bit of kit, one issue I was having was lack of heat from the cab heater though, I did some work on the heater pipes i.e. I found that they where a little crushed reducing the flow in the pipes, I re-hashed the heater pipes from the engine connections using some old discovery 1 heater pipes which are a tad larger in diameter and I was quite simply shocked at the difference this has made to heat now coming out of the heater. On the same vain of thought (thinking restrictions in the water feed system) I looked at the rest of the pipes and engine connections. I found that the rear engine pipe connection and the "pre heater" pipe that runs across the top of the cylinder head where badly fould with rust, which then brought my attention to the connector on the thermostat housing, which was also heavily fouled, after I cleaned it up I was shocked at how narrow this port actually was, so when I've got a spare thermostat housing in stock I'm planning on modifying the heater connector to open up the water way inside the thermostat body hopefully allowing a bit more flow to the heat exchanger... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Defender 200tdi engine I was talking about... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 25mm celotex is as good as 6-8 inches of fibreglass, and available in many, many thicknesses that you could choose from to make your build easy. That's handy as the ambulance currently has something in between, namely 25mm of fibreglass! I think we'll have to pull the interior skin off as it's 1980's school-bus-ceiling grade 3mm melamine rivnailed to a steel frame and it's been drilled and cut by previous owners. My feeling is stick some high grade 25-30mm insulation in the frame, possibly space the interior skin off the metal with something non-conductive to avoid cold-bridges, and use something a little more modern to skin the inside. Floor is ~30mm very solid marine ply, we don't have the headroom to insulate above it but I spose glueing something to the underneath where possible can't hurt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Here it is, from your friendly Wickes: http://www.wickes.co.uk/Celotex-25mm-High-Performance-Insulation-Board-1200x2400mm/p/190545 Almost twice as insulating as polystyrene Shame about the headroom -not thought about a pop-up roof? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Shame about the headroom -not thought about a pop-up roof? Thought about it, not going to do it initially, will keep it in mind and maybe come back to it if we get fed up with the low ceiling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 We go to Sweden and Finland regulalry One of the best bits of kit I found for pennies was the old Kenlowe Hot Start - the one I have on the 200 is an 88degree unit. It was a doddle to fit and and works very well at keeping the block warm... I also used aluminim coated bubble wrap as a sandwich in the head lining and other places Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g&t Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Thank FF, good luck with your own project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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