V8 3.5 into my series 2a

[atkinsal]

Hi there all

Wonder if anyone can help with a few questions I have on fitting a 3.5 range rover v8 into my series.

I've got hold of and stripped down the v8 and it's currently at the machine shop being rebored. I've also managed to get hold of a second hand conversion plate and mountings. I really don't fancy cutting the crank so I'd like to turn down the input shaft. Any views on what is involved in removing the input shaft from a series 2a box? I was hoping not to strip the box. Also, if I reduce the input shaft will it fit straight into the range rover flywheel and spigot or do I need to buy something else.

Also, any views on how much a need to modify the bulkhead. Do I need to do both sides or can I get away with just the passenger side? If anyone has photos of the modifications that would be great. Be good to see some photos before I get the angle grinder out!!

Hope someone can help and thanks in advance. Not doubt many more questions coming. I'll post some photos when I get started.

[mickeyw]

Trip down memory lane time

To remove the input shaft you need to undo the four big bolts holding the bellhousing to the gearbox. The shaft and bellhousing come away together. There may be a circlip involved too, I can't remember. You don't need to dismantle to whole box though, but care is required during reassembly.

To reduce the shaft diameter I cylindrically ground it to the same diameter as the Range Rover part. The surface wants to be pretty good, as does the size. I used a RRC flywheel but made a spigot bearing with the same diameter as the RRC, but added some extra length to the rear, as the spigot bearing only just reached into a standard one. I think the only reason to cut the crank is if you don't reduce the spigot diameter.

Just re-read your post and note you have a 2A box. Mine was a 3 - I can't think they're that different....

I also used a Series 3 petrol clutch assembly, and re-drilled the RRC flywheel to suit the smaller PCD fixing screws and locating dowels.

As for foot well surgery, it very much depends on what adapter you have used and how far forward or back the engine sits.

I squared off the foot wells both sides.

I used a home made adapter onto the S3 box. The box sat in its factory position.

I had to take a small notch out of the front cross member to clear the pulleys. I sat the engine low enough that the crank pulley lined up with the starting handle hole in the bumper and cross member.

Hope this helps, I did my conversion 20 odd years ago, so the memory may not be 100%

Oh and welcome to the forum.

[zim]

Why do you need to modify the shaft ? The few that we've done have all been fine, or just needed a different spiggot bush.

G

[HoggyN]

I wouldn't have thought there would be much wall left in a RR spigot bush if it was reamed out to take a standard Series input shaft.

This website is horrible to look at but it does have some useful info...

http://teflonmike.craywiki.co.uk/0_Lo_073_Workshop_D_010_V8ing3.htm

[02GF74]

I'd be interested what exhaust system you are going to fit. Is it going to be a cut down RR or Defender or something else?

[mickeyw]

Exhaust.

I fitted a system that Jake Wright used to make for this purpose.

It ran the same path as the 4 cyl system, barring the extra piece from the right bank to the Y. It was beautifully tucked up around the gearbox cross member, and away from harm.

It used 3.5 RRC type manifolds, and was larger bore with a single well flowing silencer.

From outside you'd think all looked standard 4cyl, but a second look and you'd notice the tail pipe was a bit bigger than normal.

Acoustics were fairly reserved at tickover and light load, but open her up and audio pleasure began

Spigot bearing.

Hoggy is right - there'd be no spigot bearing left if the gbox shaft was left standard.

[Jon W]

There are a few pictures of the bulkhead mods on my build thread which may help you http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=69582

[Scooby Jim]

I have a Rover SD1 V8 in my series, and it uses the series 3 gearbox and Milner Phillips mounting ring and oil filter relocator (came like this).
The oil filter needs to move as it fouls the chassis.

Some pics of mine.

You can find these occasionally on Ebay, and if you want any pics I can get some for you, as shamefully its still not finished.

Exhaust.
I fitted a system that Jake Wright used to make for this purpose.
It ran the same path as the 4 cyl system, barring the extra piece from the right bank to the Y. It was beautifully tucked up around the gearbox cross member, and away from harm.
It used 3.5 RRC type manifolds, and was larger bore with a single well flowing silencer.
From outside you'd think all looked standard 4cyl, but a second look and you'd notice the tail pipe was a bit bigger than normal.
Acoustics were fairly reserved at tickover and light load, but open her up and audio pleasure began

Spigot bearing.
Hoggy is right - there'd be no spigot bearing left if the gbox shaft was left standard.

Does he still make these?? I will be needing an exhaust as mine is all naff.

[Scooby Jim]

Found a guy selling these.

Oil filter remote kit.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Landrover-series-2-3-remote-oil-filter-for-rover-V8-conversion-/151989902935?hash=item23634dde57:g:ytIAAOSwWTRWyJGR

Spacer (in need of ally welding).

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Landrover-series-2-3-gearbox-to-rover-V8-conversion-ring-/151989894169?hash=item23634dbc19:g:PkYAAOSwe7BWyI3E

[missingsid]

Funny the fubar'd adapter plate has 16 bids and the good one has no bids!!

Anyway your man said he has one allready.

As for the oil adaptor although Milner makes great products there are better remote designs arround.

Mine is a billet one but there is a really good cast one for MGB V8s that is really low profile. For a remote filter head I use Mocal.

My gbox input shaft was reduced to suit a RRC bush but if the shaft breaks I am stuffed! The bolt on Jake Wright bush is easier though I can't see how the alignment tollerance works but lots have used it.

Jim how are you liking your motor?

Marc

[FridgeFreezer]

Exhaust-wise if you can, try to use the downpipe & Y-piece from the RR (even brand new they're dirt cheap) then you have standard-ish bits to try and join up further down. You might find that a few quid spent on a cheap V8 90 standard system made by someone awful like Britpart will cost you very little & give you a decent collection of bent pipe to play with. The more standard bits you can re-use, the better.

Or splash the cash & get someone like Longlife to just knock a stainless one up from scratch in-situ.

When modding the bulkhead, keep in mind you want to be able to change the spark plugs at some point

[HoggyN]

Out of interest, I've just measured the length of a RRC carb V8 and the space between the bulkhead and the radiator core of my S1. The latter is 29", some three inches less than the length of the V8. I know I can take the viscous fan off and shorten the pump by about three inches but that still leaves me zero clearance.

The only way I can see that a V8 would fit is by moving the gearbox back a couple of inches. There doesn't appear to be any point in moving the radiator forward to gain the room as the front pulley will foul the crossmember.

[FridgeFreezer]

I think S1's are quite different Hoggy. Going serp (especially P38 type) cuts a fair bit off the front end.

I knew a chap many moons ago who had a V8 + LT77 + LT230 in a Series 1 so it can be done!

[lo-fi]

For reference, I have my 3.9 serp down as 28" from front of water pump to gearbox mating face from when I did my 109 conversion.

I've also seen a 4.6 in an S1 trialer that hadn't been chopped about too much. Was running series box, but I'm afraid I have no more detail than that.

I can highly recommend European Radiator Services ltd if anyone decides to go the custom route and relocate the rad like I did.

[HoggyN]

Thanks both. I looked at a serp but was worried about the clearance for the oil filter over the front diff. With the vee belt front cover that doesn't look like it will be a problem if fitted with a Mocal pump cover.

The rad is already a custom extra thick six row job by JJ Radiators in Coventry.

It doesn't help that it is an 86" so there is 2" less room between bulkhead and rad.

[Bowie69]

If you go remote oil filter on a serp engine the problem vanishes, and your oil changes get much cleaner and easier.

[lo-fi]

Indeed - that's what I've done. Mocol remote kit, filter mounts to the wing. You get the better crank driven oil pump with the serp too.

[HoggyN]

How do you link up the remote filter? With a sandwich plate or can you tap direct off the front cover higher up?

Sounds like I need to find a serp now.

[Bowie69]

Sandwich plate works well, and shoved the oil ports on the side. A lot of the cheaper take offs just pont down, which exactly where you don't want!

[Aaron G]

Guys, i know this subject is a few years old but its relevant to me right now and im hoping somebody might be able to guide me to somebody that might have an adapter ring that will convert rover 3.5 V8 to my S2A gearbox. I want to do this conversion in my S2A 88 soon but it seems the conversion parts are rare now days. I have heard of the Philips Milner or the Mercia 4x4 kit but neither seem to be anywhere on the internet. can i buy a kit anywhere? I would appreciate any help

[lo-fi]

On 9/23/2019 at 6:18 AM, Aaron G said:

Guys, i know this subject is a few years old but its relevant to me right now and im hoping somebody might be able to guide me to somebody that might have an adapter ring that will convert rover 3.5 V8 to my S2A gearbox. I want to do this conversion in my S2A 88 soon but it seems the conversion parts are rare now days. I have heard of the Philips Milner or the Mercia 4x4 kit but neither seem to be anywhere on the internet. can i buy a kit anywhere? I would appreciate any help

Best bets will be pop a post up In the Wanted section here, keeping an eye on ebay, facebay and attending a few auto jumbles. Complete kits are rare, mostly only the adaptor rings seem to survive. You'll probably end up rolling your own engine mounts unless you get lucky and find a set 

[Aaron G]

On 9/25/2019 at 7:41 PM, lo-fi said:

Best bets will be pop a post up In the Wanted section here, keeping an eye on ebay, facebay and attending a few auto jumbles. Complete kits are rare, mostly only the adaptor rings seem to survive. You'll probably end up rolling your own engine mounts unless you get lucky and find a set 

Thank you for the advice!

I will do that, its a good idea