V8Pete Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 Decided to upgrade my front brake disks (on a 1988 110) but discovered that whoever worked on them previously has completely rounded off the upper 12 point bolt that holds the calliper to the hub. I've tried all the standard 'rounded bolt removal tools' and none of them has been able to grip it enough to move it. Given how inaccessible it is I think I have two options: 1. Split the calliper in to it's two halves so I can remove the hub. This might give me access to the reverse side of the bolt and more chance of removing it. Might still need to renew the swivel housing and possibly the calliper. 2. Unbolt the rear swivel retaining plate and the upper and lower swivel pins - would this allow me to remove the whole hub and swivel assembly as one? What do people reckon is the best option? Any other ideas? Thanks for your help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 Have you tried one of the Irwin bolt extractors? Never had one fail yet. Might need to tap it on a little if really rounded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 When I had the same problem I filed some flats so that I could get some mole grips on more securely and combined with a bit of heat managed to release. I'd try to avoid splitting the calliper. Pulling the entire swivel is messy, undoing the screws that hold the seal retainer can be difficult as well (tiny heads, easy to round and not much to get hold of). Then you still have to disturb the swivel pins and pull the drive shaft with it. then it's an awkward lump to try to work with on the bench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffernutter Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 Heat; weld a nut on top? Brute force? Cheers Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephencdavies Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 If I've had a bolt that has rounded of, like a wheel bolt on my lads rear wheel the other day. i find a socket that's just under sized and beat the bugger on. then use a socket wrench to remove it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat2495 Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 I resorted to pulling the complete hub, then welding a socket on to 3 out of the 4 bolts on my 110 calipers, everything else just rounded them even more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 Irwin sockets are a god send. I have 1/4" and 3/8" drive sets and they have never let me down. Les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8Pete Posted August 2, 2016 Author Share Posted August 2, 2016 Have you tried one of the Irwin bolt extractors? Never had one fail yet. Might need to tap it on a little if really rounded. Yes, I bought the extension set as well to get a 13mm as the 1/2" wouldn't fit. I even squeezed them on with a clamp while undoing them but they still didn't grip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8Pete Posted August 2, 2016 Author Share Posted August 2, 2016 Sounds like I might have to take it to a garage and see if they can weld a nut on it. I'll given the Irwin sockets one more go and hammer them on but so far it just seems to have damaged the teeth on them (are the calliper bolts high tensile steel?). Thanks for the replies everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 The bolts are high tensile and are both threadlocked and very tight. Les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davie Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 big hammer and the tightest fitting irwin you can beat on there, should work perfectly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 I had a similar issue recently when the bearing went on a rear caliper. Plenty of duck oil, Irwin bolt extractor (we removed spring to gain more clearance) and a very useful trick. If it's only one stuck see if you can get a pry bar under the caliper and lever it up / down. Whack with hammer to return. Do that a bit and it helps to start undoing the bolt. I never used the bolt extractor but it really just needs one really solid hit to seat it and should work its magic. But twisting the caliper helps break the threadlock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerrymc123 Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 Buff the rounded head then weld a 17mm nut onto it, you've now something decent to get a grip on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted August 3, 2016 Share Posted August 3, 2016 As above but I weld a bolt to it, its a bit easier for me to weld and as mentioned above the heat directly on the caliper bolt tends to shift it anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8Pete Posted August 3, 2016 Author Share Posted August 3, 2016 I tried levering the calliper up and down and it moved a bit but hasn't loosened the bolt yet. I'll try a few more times. I don't have a welder so would need to take it to a garage to get a bolt/nut welded to it. Current plan is to cut a groove across it with an angle grinder and then use an impact driver and with an impact flat head screwdriver bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted August 3, 2016 Share Posted August 3, 2016 Where are you based? There might be someone local with a welder who could help out. With regards to the levering - we did it a few times until the caliper was rotating as freely as we could get it. If you have someone to help you could ask them to apply pressure to the bolt extractor whilst you wiggle the caliper up and down, that should help it start turning. Hopefully then you'll get the threadlock cracked off and you can then spin it more readily with the extractor. Once you get a faint crack then keep applying some penetrating oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8Pete Posted August 3, 2016 Author Share Posted August 3, 2016 I'm just outside Chepstow - anyone nearby? Can't get the angle grinder in without damaging the hub or calliper and air sabre saw won't cut into it. Irwin bolts have now lost the sharpness on their teeth so won't bite into the bolts. Looks like heat and welding are the only options now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8Pete Posted August 3, 2016 Author Share Posted August 3, 2016 SUCCESS! Tried a couple of garages who were unsure how to get it off. Tried an 'old fashioned' garage and he said he'd just bought some new sockets for this sort of job that he hadn't tried yet. And they work with no problem at all. Couple of taps with a hammer and perfect grip. Came straight off. And he didn't want a money for it - customer service isn't dead. If anyone's interested they were these http://www.welzhwerkzeug.com/products/product_view.php?product_id=502 Need to get myself a set. Thanks to everyone for your suggestions. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted August 3, 2016 Share Posted August 3, 2016 Great result! How much did this socket differ from the one you had tried? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8Pete Posted August 4, 2016 Author Share Posted August 4, 2016 It looked like an ordinary deep socket but apparently it had lots of small teeth inside, rather than the 6 that the Irwin sets have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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