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Unfortunately the algorithms give the content provider more credit if their audience post stuff up - so having a deliberately polarising opinion is good business. Capitalism in action.

Might be worth looking into the "doubler" boxes the Americans like using?

There were a couple of Epicyclic Underdrive Gearbox options available or the LT230 transfer box. It fitted between the main gearbox output and the intermediate gear. In trying to get a proper crawl Ratio I have the 2.888:1 Low with the lower ratio 3.6:1 1st, 3.01 :1 Rev suffix C main Box.... While The series 3 box does gives a lower 4:1 Rev ratio I didn't want to go syncro in the series 2. In the UK, Ian Ashcroft supplied an underdrive for fitment to land rover Defenders with the LT230 Transfer box, as did East Coast Rover in the USA..... But they apparently only sold 2... and no longer sell. From what I've seen, the underdrive centre shaft connects to the main gearbox Output shaft, then through epicyclic gears, connects externally with the transfer box Intermediate gear. It gave just a 2.69:1 reduction but this would be enough to turn 48.88:1 into 131.48:1.. For the LT76 the Underdrive input would need to connect internally onto the 1.15" diameter, 10 spline Gearbox main shaft. With the external output gear, meshing with the Intermediate gear cluster, matching the original 'Output gear' from the main gearbox. It's diameter being 3.4" with 27 Helically cut teeth. The Fairey overdrive output gear RTC7176 is already made for the job as is the overdrive main shaft RTC7168 to couple direct to the gearbox Main shaft. Is there a compact Epicyclic box strong enough to build such an underdrive for the Series LT76?

That's a nice looking wagon fella, I've been toying with the same size tyre, just curious what ratio transfer box are you running

Good information, but I can’t abide YouTubers that keep asking their audience’s opinion and comments part way through.

As Stephen said, the different metals won’t fuse. I used this to my benefit with that crappy, misjigged Marsland 109 chassis years ago - the dumbiron spring hanger holes were 3/4” different heights from each other, so a friend used a block of brass inside the hanger to act as a backing blocker to fill the bolt holes smoothly with mig welding so that we could redrill the holes to match the other dumbiron. It gave a flat weld surface inside the hanger, so we only had to grind the outside faces flat before drilling. Worked a treat.

Could have, but I've only got a couple of ships props left, didn't want to waste all that material I would of had to turn of Could always cast a couple more props............ Regards Stephen

Brilliant. But kind of disappointed you haven't turned them from solid out of a bit of ship's propshaft you had lying around. In about an hour.😉

That helps a lot - very interesting, thanks.

The Lc1 and LC2 use different sensors, so be aware of that, I forget the nomenclature, but it is clear when you start looking as the plugs are different. If it works and gives a reading then it will be fine, I've certainly had one in a box for 5 years and it worked fine on first switch on, just remember to calibrate it in free air.

If your using mig or arc welding the brass will melt and spit at you, also the metal in the rods or wire will not adhere to the brass, which is why you can blank holes with brass or copper and then back fill with mig or arc as it won't stick to the brass or copper You could tig braze your doors that way your filler rod would adhere to the brass or stop welding as close to the brass joints as you can then fill any remaining gap with a map torch / oxy acetylene and a brazing rod Hope this helps regards Stephen

Let's hope he approaches it with more intelligence than the TFL guys, they couldn't stop whining about how they're too stupid to understand how lockers work.

Haven't seen this one posted. Pretty good write up IMO and some interesting points.

I think o2 sensors come with a covering that burns off on first use ? I have an 8 year old unused sensor is that likely to still be good or is it new sensor time and if so will any store do for that ? I know I could go narrow band but I’m going wideband. I have Lc-1 in currently but I could swap to Lc-2 but doesn’t seem much difference.

As a (very) inexperienced welder who is about to have to do door frames, please can you explain what the brazed joints did to make it unpleasant? So I know what's gonna bite my bum...

Brilliant! What a small world!! We had two blue 90s as well!

It may melt at 420C, but I bet you the tank is hotter than that for dipping.

I think with a couple well placed plug welds as an insurance policy, I should be grand! 😁

We must have met too if you were on that trip Andy. That's the V8 90 I was driving at the time in the foreground.

Very interested in this! Will be digging more and more in to this. Also I thought @Turbocharger's truck looked familiar! Years ago we bumped into him on Wales somewhere! He kindly saved my idiot mate the walk to catchup with me again! As you can tell he regretted this when his feet got wet! TC didnt have air suspension back then....

A quick google says zinc melts at 420degC, Bronze 950 Brass ~900, so would that be OK being dipped?

That's very nice. I like a good trailer.

How about replace the flatbed for a better flatbed? https://www.clhtrailers.com/catalogue/main/container-trailer/container-trailer/ Mark will happily add sides for you if you want it to be a more conventional flatbed.

A mate who works on wagons swears by them, as he says they are not the cheapest, but good value and very good quality.